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Idiot lights stay on when truck is off


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Whenever my battery is connected, the battery and oil dash lights come on immediately without the key. After starting the vehicle they go off. This is pretty annoying as I have to disconnect the battery every time I turn off the truck.

 

I've been slowly repairing small electrical issues/cleaning grounds, but none have fixed this yet. (They've been on since I bought the truck). Fuses are good, most dash lights and exterior lights work as normal.

 

I have one other issue, when the headlights are on the right blinker arrow lights up too. No idea if it's related but thought I'd mention it.

 

Has anyone had experience with this before? I searched and searched and haven't found anything yet. I guess I could always take the bulbs out  :dunno:

 

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If your grounds are good, another possibility is ignition switch adjustment or a fried ignition switch connector. It sounds like it's not returning fully to the OFF position. Check the rod on the steering column, move it back and forth and see if the idiot lights go off. .

52960_0900c152800a9f73_1.jpgengine-cooling-fan_html_m9da74d3.jpg

 

Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning
On non-tilt columns:
Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.
Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
On tilt columns:
Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.
Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Install any components removed for switch access.

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If your grounds are good, a good possibility is ignition switch adjustment or a fried ignition switch connector. It sounds like it's not returning fully to the OFF position. Check the rod on the steering column, move it back and forth and see if the idiot lights go off. .

 

52960_0900c152800a9f73_1.jpgengine-cooling-fan_html_m9da74d3.jpg

 

Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning

On non-tilt columns:

Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.

Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).

On tilt columns:

Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.

Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).

Install any components removed for switch access.

 

This is something I definitely did not think of. I'll check it out tonight. Thanks for the reply!

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Well, I did something. Not sure what but it worked. Took the lower dash out and dropped the steering column. Wiggled the rods around and nothing. Started unplugging things and plugging back in when poof. The lights went off.

 

I think it may have been the clear box thing (emission ticker?) It was right after I unplugged that. The emission light WAS on as well. Now it's off too. Hoping that fixed it and I didn't just bump a bad connection while under there.

 

We'll see if my battery is dead tomorrow..thanks for the help guys

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Bummer. Sounds like you have some ground loops or a skinned wire present. Do you have a multimeter with the 10A jack? If so, you can put it in series with your positive battery cable and start pulling circuit fuses one by one until the parasitic current stops flowing. That should get you in the right ballpark

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Bummer. Sounds like you have some ground loops or a skinned wire present. Do you have a multimeter with the 10A jack? If so, you can put it in series with your positive battery cable and start pulling circuit fuses one by one until the parasitic current stops flowing. That should get you in the right ballpark

 

Awesome, thanks for the tip! I do have a multimeter so I'll get started on that.

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