quaddub_comanche Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Whenever my battery is connected, the battery and oil dash lights come on immediately without the key. After starting the vehicle they go off. This is pretty annoying as I have to disconnect the battery every time I turn off the truck. I've been slowly repairing small electrical issues/cleaning grounds, but none have fixed this yet. (They've been on since I bought the truck). Fuses are good, most dash lights and exterior lights work as normal. I have one other issue, when the headlights are on the right blinker arrow lights up too. No idea if it's related but thought I'd mention it. Has anyone had experience with this before? I searched and searched and haven't found anything yet. I guess I could always take the bulbs out :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Your gas gauge shouldn't do that either it's reading way to high . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 Have you looked at the instrument cluster ground under the dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 If your grounds are good, another possibility is ignition switch adjustment or a fried ignition switch connector. It sounds like it's not returning fully to the OFF position. Check the rod on the steering column, move it back and forth and see if the idiot lights go off. . Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioningOn non-tilt columns:Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).On tilt columns:Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).Install any components removed for switch access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quaddub_comanche Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 If your grounds are good, a good possibility is ignition switch adjustment or a fried ignition switch connector. It sounds like it's not returning fully to the OFF position. Check the rod on the steering column, move it back and forth and see if the idiot lights go off. . Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning On non-tilt columns: Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered. Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). On tilt columns: Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position. Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm). Install any components removed for switch access. This is something I definitely did not think of. I'll check it out tonight. Thanks for the reply! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quaddub_comanche Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Well, I did something. Not sure what but it worked. Took the lower dash out and dropped the steering column. Wiggled the rods around and nothing. Started unplugging things and plugging back in when poof. The lights went off. I think it may have been the clear box thing (emission ticker?) It was right after I unplugged that. The emission light WAS on as well. Now it's off too. Hoping that fixed it and I didn't just bump a bad connection while under there. We'll see if my battery is dead tomorrow..thanks for the help guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quaddub_comanche Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Aaand the battery is dead...time to chase the gremlins.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Bummer. Sounds like you have some ground loops or a skinned wire present. Do you have a multimeter with the 10A jack? If so, you can put it in series with your positive battery cable and start pulling circuit fuses one by one until the parasitic current stops flowing. That should get you in the right ballpark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMCJeepMJ Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Right turn signal on when headlights are on indicates a bad bulb socket in the signal lens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quaddub_comanche Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Bummer. Sounds like you have some ground loops or a skinned wire present. Do you have a multimeter with the 10A jack? If so, you can put it in series with your positive battery cable and start pulling circuit fuses one by one until the parasitic current stops flowing. That should get you in the right ballpark Awesome, thanks for the tip! I do have a multimeter so I'll get started on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quaddub_comanche Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Right turn signal on when headlights are on indicates a bad bulb socket in the signal lens. Perfect, that should be an easy enough fix. I'm so glad you guys know all the little idiosyncrasies about these jeeps, saving me a ton of extra work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Probably because we've all been there before :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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