Dom U Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 So it's all good now?Its driving a lot better after eliminating the c101, it did its slight back fire once didn't die. The lights dimming is fixed. I feel like iv lost a lot of power and like my engine is trying to hard. Let's regroup here. Have you tested the fuel pressure? Yes. Was at 29-30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 That's a little low. What was it when you pulled the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 That's a little low. What was it when you pulled the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator? IIRC 38 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 That's a little low. What was it when you pulled the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator? IIRC 38 A gauge could be off that much I imagine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Found a small pin hole in the line from the top back hose of valve cover. Ordered the new part Dorman 46005. I doubt it has anything to so with my issues but might aswell replace it lol. Took the truck for a ride to the lake yesterday to see she would do. Its only 20 mins from me so not far. Died on me 6 times there and back. It appears to happen if I'm idleing and then hit my throttle the engine just stops. If I'm in park and hit the throttle a few times over n over it'll die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 double Check the resistance on the TPS ground. Mine used to do that, and I was seeing nearly 3 ohms. I repinned the TPS and ran a whole new ground wire for it. It's sitting at .8Ohms now and that problem no longer exists. Double check the TPS adjustment as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 double Check the resistance on the TPS ground. Mine used to do that, and I was seeing nearly 3 ohms. I repinned the TPS and ran a whole new ground wire for it. It's sitting at .8Ohms now and that problem no longer exists. Double check the TPS adjustment as well. I double checked mine yesterday and saw 7.2 ohms!! All the resistance was right at the dipstick tube stud on my 90. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Checked them over and over. And all the wires are all brand new. Unfortunately just because a part is new doesn't mean it's good. Especially if it was purchased at the local Wally World or KMart. Purchasing parts from a reputable parts store helps. I have purchased new cable assemblies that were so poorly assembled and sometimes corroded they were useless. The bad thing is when installing a new, rebuilt part you assume it's good so when having a problem you don't go back and recheck it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 double Check the resistance on the TPS ground. Mine used to do that, and I was seeing nearly 3 ohms. I repinned the TPS and ran a whole new ground wire for it. It's sitting at .8Ohms now and that problem no longer exists. Double check the TPS adjustment as well. A sensor won't work and kills the engine because of a ~3 ohm impedance? Only in a Renix. Damn, what a POS designed system. :shake: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Checked them over and over. And all the wires are all brand new. Unfortunately just because a part is new doesn't mean it's good. Especially if it was purchased at the local Wally World or KMart. Purchasing parts from a reputable parts store helps. I have purchased new cable assemblies that were so poorly assembled and sometimes corroded they were useless. The bad thing is when installing a new, rebuilt part you assume it's good so when having a problem you don't go back and recheck it. 85% of my parts are purchased from Napa. About only thing I buy from Wally world is my t3 oil LOL. double Check the resistance on the TPS ground. Mine used to do that, and I was seeing nearly 3 ohms. I repinned the TPS and ran a whole new ground wire for it. It's sitting at .8Ohms now and that problem no longer exists. Double check the TPS adjustment as well.Will be doubling over it all tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 double Check the resistance on the TPS ground. Mine used to do that, and I was seeing nearly 3 ohms. I repinned the TPS and ran a whole new ground wire for it. It's sitting at .8Ohms now and that problem no longer exists. Double check the TPS adjustment as well. A sensor won't work and kills the engine because of a ~3 ohm impedance? Only in a Renix. Damn, what a POS designed system. :shake: I know that just re-doing that ground wire solved about half of my trucks running and driveability issues. The other half was my ignition system, which is now shiny and new. I still have a random miss at a very specific RPM and throttle position, but it isn't consistent and only happens when the engine is up to temp completely. At this point I think the last of my problems are with the intake air temp sensor, with which I can find no replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 double Check the resistance on the TPS ground. Mine used to do that, and I was seeing nearly 3 ohms. I repinned the TPS and ran a whole new ground wire for it. It's sitting at .8Ohms now and that problem no longer exists. Double check the TPS adjustment as well. A sensor won't work and kills the engine because of a ~3 ohm impedance? Only in a Renix. Damn, what a POS designed system. :shake: I know that just re-doing that ground wire solved about half of my trucks running and driveability issues. The other half was my ignition system, which is now shiny and new. I still have a random miss at a very specific RPM and throttle position, but it isn't consistent and only happens when the engine is up to temp completely. At this point I think the last of my problems are with the intake air temp sensor, with which I can find no replacements. Use the newer Chrysler sensor and swap the plug end, it works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 Still no luck solving the problems. Shes actually starting to die more often. Really not sure what todo. Replaced cap rotor and iac yesterday and put some champion coppers in her. Still a rough idle and dieing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thiefcatcher Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I took apart my harness at the firewall and cleaned both sides of the connector and it helped immeasurably. If you havent examined the junction it's pretty easy to get apart to examine it. The metal terminals won't erode the way the plastic does. So if you find that your plastic has degraded with the introduction of clutch master cylinder fluid (which is DOT 3 brake fluid) it's a good three to four hours of cleaning and you'll want to replace the leaky clutch cylinder. Then it will work again. Just take your time cleaning it. Its amazing how much black gooey crap can get all over your connectors in that firewall junction. If you don't want to separate that junction to check you can check the firewall in the cab and you'll probably be able to see a stain from where the fluid is leaking down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 I took apart my harness at the firewall and cleaned both sides of the connector and it helped immeasurably. If you havent examined the junction it's pretty easy to get apart to examine it. The metal terminals won't erode the way the plastic does. So if you find that your plastic has degraded with the introduction of clutch master cylinder fluid (which is DOT 3 brake fluid) it's a good three to four hours of cleaning and you'll want to replace the leaky clutch cylinder. Then it will work again. Just take your time cleaning it. Its amazing how much black gooey crap can get all over your connectors in that firewall junction. If you don't want to separate that junction to check you can check the firewall in the cab and you'll probably be able to see a stain from where the fluid is leaking down. Yes this is the c101 connector and iv very thoroughly cleaned it. Will be eliminating it soon when I remember to grab the soldering iron from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Well she's dieing a lot more. Instead of starting right back up its becoming really hard to start if it dies. If its been sitting over night and I start it starts right up. Dies once I give it throttle and let go of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 Narrowed it down to when I'm coming off the throttle is when she's dieing. I'm pretty clueless at this point iv tried everything I can think of. Really need the beauty running for work :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Just left it in park and idleing. Sat for about 5 mins just randomly cut off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I wish I could sit here and tell you exactly what it is. My truck had a lot of problems similar to yours, and at this point I have restored or replaced almost everything on the engine as far as sensors, ignition, and fuel system. No one part of the process really was the miracle fix, but each thing I did made a noticeable improvement. From the things you have told me, if it isn't sensor related then it sounds like an ignition issue. Clean up the contacts and ignition harness. If you have a way to test or swap out the control module and coil then give that a try. Believe me, I know it can be frustrating. My truck sat for 6 months after it just stopped working and doing a bunch of work, and it was entirely because I was just fed up working on it. The fix ended up being something really stupid, and I felt dumb for not catching it sooner. It pays to be patient and thorough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 I think that's gonna be my route at this point. One sensor at a time. My vaccum seems to all be in order other than the one from back of valve cover to intake but I have Napa ordering it for me already. Think I'm gonna go grab a MAP sensor and start there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thiefcatcher Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 have you checked your fuel pressure? My GC with the 4.0 got a new pump and that fixed my issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thiefcatcher Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 after it dies check the Schrader valve if you haven't done that already...you should still have fuel pressure...if you don't your issue is either in the pump control voltage or the pump itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thiefcatcher Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 or you could have debris in the tank, filter, fuel rail....etc etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 after it dies check the Schrader valve if you haven't done that already...you should still have fuel pressure...if you don't your issue is either in the pump control voltage or the pump itself Fuel pump, filter are new from November. It Dosent seem to be fuel related pressure test were okay and held pressure over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom U Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Just got done putting on the new map sensor I went ans Grabed from. Seems abit more responsive but still dies withen driving a mile died twice. The crankcase vent tube from the rear of valve cover has now caught my attention. It plugs into a nipple on the intake mani and is sucking air now u would think if u run the truck and unplug the end from the VC you would feel suction right? Well the hose is obviously clogged Napa already has one on the way for me. My question is would this cause my issue? When I unplug it from the intake mani my idle comes way up and seems more normal imo. Plug it back in and idle instantly drops. Isles the same if I cap the nipple with my finger so this tells me its completely cloged. Can I drive the truck with this unpluged to see if it is the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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