Chrysler 8 1/4

[braden_3]

will a chrysler 8 1/4 (from 96 cheroke) work with the driveshaft from my 89 pioneer with dana 35?

 

Great forum btw :cheers:

 

Cheers,

Braden

[Twisty]

The D35 has a longer snout then the 8.25. About an inch longer. If you're lifting it, there might be some issues with the DS popping out.

[Eagle]

The D35 has a longer snout then the 8.25. About an inch longer. If you're lifting it, there might be some issues with the DS popping out.

Correction -- The D35 snout is about 3/4" SHORTER than either the D44 or 8-1/4 (which are the same length)

[jackel18]

The D35 has a longer snout then the 8.25. About an inch longer. If you're lifting it, there might be some issues with the DS popping out.

Correction -- The D35 snout is about 3/4" SHORTER than either the D44 or 8-1/4 (which are the same length)

 

 

so if i were to swap my d35 for an 8.25, and lift the truck 3" would i need a new drive shaft?

[braden_3]

so what can be done to solve this problem? i can't afford a new driveshaft :(

[Eagle]

so if i were to swap my d35 for an 8.25, and lift the truck 3" would i need a new drive shaft?

For a 3" lift in an MJ you probably wouldn't need a new drive shaft even if you did nothing to the axle, but swapping in a D44 or an 8-1/4 would put things back just about to stock engagement. In fact, you should probably cycle the suspension with the new axle in place to be sure the front yoke doesn't bottom out at the transfer case.

[Eagle]

so what can be done to solve this problem? i can't afford a new driveshaft :(

What's the problem? You haven't provided enough information to show that you have a problem. If your truck is lifted, you don't have a problem.

 

The actual difference in length is less than an inch. Check your driveshaft to see how much is engaged on the transfer case output shaft when the yoke is in as far as the wear marks show that it normall goes. If you have an additional 3/4 of an inch before it bottoms out, you should be okay. If it bottoms out, running that driveshaft with the 8-1/4" axle could destroy your transfer case.

 

One shade tree solution (which I would try to avoid, as it isn't reversable w/o infusions of $$$) would be to take a cutoff wheel and chop a little bit off the end of your output shaft to provide clearance. But that will provide the answer only if the yoke is bottoming on the shaft before the outer portion hits the tailshaft housing.

 

Another partial solution would be to install taller rear bump stops. As the suspension compresses, the driveshaft gets pushed forward. Limit the amount the suspension can compress and you limit how much the front yoke can get shoved into the transfer case.

 

You probably have enough clearance to bolt in the new axle and have the drive shaft mount up. What you need to be concerned about is ensuring that there's anouth clearance for the yoke to move forward as the suspension cycles.

[DirtyComanche]

Ya can always redrill the centre pins 3/4" back in the springs. I know, an odd solution...

 

 

 

 

It's an absolutely annoying process as spring steel is so hard.

[Pete M]

You need really really good bits and then your tire won't be centered in the wheelwell. Although, Dirty doesn't exactly have a rear wheelwell, so... :D

[braden_3]

does it make a difference that my truck is 2WD? and also if i put the 8 .25 in the leaf springs are already on top of the axle.....which would lift the read 3".....right?

[comancheman]

no, it shouldnt make a difference

[87manche]

does it make a difference that my truck is 2WD? and also if i put the 8 .25 in the leaf springs are already on top of the axle.....which would lift the read 3".....right?

 

2wd or 4wd makes no difference.

 

You can't bolt the cherokee axle in directly, the perch widths are different.

 

You need to have new perches welded onto the axle.

 

going SOA will net you 5+ inches of lift.

[Eagle]

does it make a difference that my truck is 2WD? and also if i put the 8 .25 in the leaf springs are already on top of the axle.....which would lift the read 3".....right?

Ummm, wrong.

 

1) The XJ spring perches are spaced differently from the MJ. You'll have to cut them off and relocate them.

 

2) More like 5" to 6" of lift. No way is it 3" for a SOA conversion. The 8.25 has larger tubes that either a D35 or a D44 so it's probably going to be at least 6" for you.

[braden_3]

also i don't currently have a lift....its stock. ill measure the axles tonight.

[Eagle]

Don't forget, when you go from spring under to spring over, the amount of lift is the sum of the axle tube OD plus the distance from the tube to the perch mounting surface (times two, once for under and once for over), plus the thickness of the spring pack itself. And if you're going from a D35 to a Chrysler 8.25, then you also add the difference in the tube diameters.

 

I think that's going to add up to around 6"

[JeepcoMJ]

Don't forget, when you go from spring under to spring over, the amount of lift is the sum of the axle tube OD plus the distance from the tube to the perch mounting surface (times two, once for under and once for over), plus the thickness of the spring pack itself. And if you're going from a D35 to a Chrysler 8.25, then you also add the difference in the tube diameters.

 

I think that's going to add up to around 6"

 

on the same note the sum of a lower (spring under axle of different thickness) is the [new axle OD minus the old axle OD] plus the [thickness of the new perch minus the thickness of the old perch] if i'm not mistaken...old thickness has to be taken into account as such. just an observation

[Eagle]

Don't forget, when you go from spring under to spring over, the amount of lift is the sum of the axle tube OD plus the distance from the tube to the perch mounting surface (times two, once for under and once for over), plus the thickness of the spring pack itself. And if you're going from a D35 to a Chrysler 8.25, then you also add the difference in the tube diameters.

 

I think that's going to add up to around 6"

 

on the same note the sum of a lower (spring under axle of different thickness) is the [new axle OD minus the old axle OD] plus the [thickness of the new perch minus the thickness of the old perch] if i'm not mistaken...old thickness has to be taken into account as such. just an observation

Nope. When the spring is under the axle, the thickness of the spring pack doesn't matter because regardless of the number or thickness of the leaves, the axle always rests on top of the main leaf.

[JeepcoMJ]

i left the leaf springs out for that very reason...thickness of axle tubes and thickness of spring perches were all i took into account. by that same token though, it would all reverse if a smaller diameter tube or smaller thickness perch were put on it.

[Eagle]

I thought you were referring to leaf pack thickness. It's deceptive referring to perch "thickness," because the perches aren't solid. What counts isn't their thickness, but the distance from the OD of the axle tube to the mating surface of the perch. That's why I expressed it as I did.

 

Another way to envision it would be as if you had the same axle tube with both the old (under) perches and the new (over) perches in place. You would simply measure the distance/height between the upper and lower perch mating surfaces. Then add in the thickness of the leaf pack and you have the amount of lift.

 

And then you can add or subtract as necessary if the axle tube diameter changes.

 

I think we're saying the same thing, it's just a matter of expressing a visual image in words.

[JeepcoMJ]

lol, we're saying the same thing...i was applying mine to spring under and you to spring over. I was just testing you :P and my math skills ;)

[braden_3]

i think your right :cheers: thanks to all for the help :bowdown: 8)

 

and i have the same axle except its the front......just longer springs and shocks to make it work? I'm converting to 4WD....sick of getting stuck on flat ground......stupid albera weather :roll:

[Eagle]

and i have the same axle except its the front......just longer springs and shocks to make it work? I'm converting to 4WD....sick of getting stuck on flat ground......stupid albera weather :roll:

:???: Huh?

 

Where'd you get a front 8.25 axle from?

 

I'm totally confused as to what you're going to do. If you don't install the rear 8.25 as a spring over, then you won't get any lift. So regardless of what you put under the front, you won't need longer springs or shocks.

[braden_3]

k ill start over haha.

 

I bought 2 axles (front and back) from a 96 cherokee. I'm putting them in my truck to convert it to 4x4. after lifting the rear however much it will be after putting the 8 .25 in, than want to even out the front so its about the same.

 

how would i go about doing this?

[Mitch]

how much money do you have to spend?

[87manche]

how much money do you have to spend?

that's what it comes down to.

 

the front axle bolts in, and anything that you would do to a cherokee applies.

Figure on getting 5-6" of lift from a SOA in the rear.

You'd need 5.5 or 6" coils up front, new control arms, new trackbar, possibly new steering.

You'll spend far more money on the front.

Have you considered just leaving the rear SUA and doing an add a leaf or shackle?

Mine sits just fine at 4", SUA.

Of course, plans are in the works for SOA., just so I stop getting hung up on those stupid spring plates, but in order to keep it at 4" I'm going to experiment with a 2wd leaf pack and some exploder leaves.