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4 Cylinder Turbo Build!


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You can also use any ford 9in under any car, but the'll most likely be the smaller 28 spline units. I'd look under the early econoline vans, the one i pulled was 59.5in wms to wms. 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern and 31 spline w the set 20 (big) bearings. only real down side is they always had stupid high gear ratios. mines 3.01 but the one my budie pulled was 2.55. 

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You must mean 3.55 - no such thing as a Ford 2.55 ratio axle.

nope it had a 12 tooth pinion gear and and a 31 tooth ring gear. unless I have compleatly  forgotten how to set up the equation, big # divided by the small # right?

 

and great start to the build! anything is better than that 2.8, definitely watching his.

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yes, ring teeth divided by the pinion teeth. Did a little search and you could be right. Some early Mustangs had a 2.73 ratio. The lowest numerically I've seen available on the net for the 9" axle however is 3.00.

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I'm curious to see this happen as well.  I'm a fellow Import wierdo, and even weird among that crowd for my love of Isuzu, and curiosity will get the better of me.

What I am most curious to see is how it all fits in there and if hood clearance will be an issue.  Vertically from crank centerline, these engines bays are actually quite short.  I'm sure it will fit no problems, but I do know that a 2jz in an XJ/MJ requires a little hood clearancing (Yes, I considered that too lol).  It's that pesky OHV height on the cylinder head.

As far as engine swaps go, it will definitely be unique.  If I get my Crown Victoria sold I will be working on a diesel swap of my own, but I plan on doing an Volkswagen ALH TDi (1.9L) with a turbo upgrade, injectors, and tune to get around 200hp and 300lb-ft.  Not really going for power, just good econ and near stock 4.0L figures.   The upside is, it's a roughly 200lb weight loss over the 4.0L and like your swap will open up lots of engine bay room.

Speaking of Crown Vics and your off topic Ford 8.8 Discussion.  Crown Victoria Base and LX had the 2.73 diff ratio right up to 2012.  My 2005 LX has it.  Gotta love granny gears.

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I'm curious to see this happen as well. I'm a fellow Import wierdo, and even weird among that crowd for my love of Isuzu, and curiosity will get the better of me.

 

What I am most curious to see is how it all fits in there and if hood clearance will be an issue. Vertically from crank centerline, these engines bays are actually quite short. I'm sure it will fit no problems, but I do know that a 2jz in an XJ/MJ requires a little hood clearancing (Yes, I considered that too lol). It's that pesky OHV height on the cylinder head.

 

As far as engine swaps go, it will definitely be unique. If I get my Crown Victoria sold I will be working on a diesel swap of my own, but I plan on doing an Volkswagen ALH TDi (1.9L) with a turbo upgrade, injectors, and tune to get around 200hp and 300lb-ft. Not really going for power, just good econ and near stock 4.0L figures. The upside is, it's a roughly 200lb weight loss over the 4.0L and like your swap will open up lots of engine bay room.

 

Speaking of Crown Vics and your off topic Ford 8.8 Discussion. Crown Victoria Base and LX had the 2.73 diff ratio right up to 2012. My 2005 LX has it. Gotta love granny gears.

Oh my god. I originally wanted to swap an alh tdi in manche and give her a little lift. Then I got new influences and an sr20 lol.

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ImpulseRocket89:

You be sure to post up that TDI build when you get to it.  I've been researching that exact swap in to my '90.  

 

 

I'm curious to see this happen as well. I'm a fellow Import wierdo, and even weird among that crowd for my love of Isuzu, and curiosity will get the better of me.

 

What I am most curious to see is how it all fits in there and if hood clearance will be an issue. Vertically from crank centerline, these engines bays are actually quite short. I'm sure it will fit no problems, but I do know that a 2jz in an XJ/MJ requires a little hood clearancing (Yes, I considered that too lol). It's that pesky OHV height on the cylinder head.

 

As far as engine swaps go, it will definitely be unique. If I get my Crown Victoria sold I will be working on a diesel swap of my own, but I plan on doing an Volkswagen ALH TDi (1.9L) with a turbo upgrade, injectors, and tune to get around 200hp and 300lb-ft. Not really going for power, just good econ and near stock 4.0L figures. The upside is, it's a roughly 200lb weight loss over the 4.0L and like your swap will open up lots of engine bay room.

 

Speaking of Crown Vics and your off topic Ford 8.8 Discussion. Crown Victoria Base and LX had the 2.73 diff ratio right up to 2012. My 2005 LX has it. Gotta love granny gears.

Oh my god. I originally wanted to swap an alh tdi in manche and give her a little lift. Then I got new influences and an sr20 lol.

 

When/If I get around to that Swap I will document it.  It definitely won't be a cheap swap, and from what I understand on a COTY built TDi XJ it requires a 3 inch lift up front  because of how the oil pan is shaped (Front diff clearance).  I've found a source for low mile engines with accessories and ECU for $2500, but there are other things that would still be needed.  Gauges figured out.  etc.  I think a realistic cost for the swap is going to be at least $6000, and that's done on a budget and probably still on the cheap side of it.  On the plus side, an adapter is already made and there are even a couple different options on how to go about it.

 

Anyway, sorry for the thread jack.  Back to SR20 awesomeness!

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You could make the factory dash work.  It would depend on a few things, but speedo is cable driven.  tach could be adapted to work with a tach adapter (If you have a factory tach) or you could simply add a universal one.  Other gauges would simply need to have senders of the same signal range, or the Jeep sending units adapted to work on the engine, which isn't that hard to do really.

Something you may want to consider with that current engine is that it looks like a front sump oil pan in the picture.  If it is, you may want to switch to a rear sump pan.

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You could make the factory dash work.  It would depend on a few things, but speedo is cable driven.  tach could be adapted to work with a tach adapter (If you have a factory tach) or you could simply add a universal one.  Other gauges would simply need to have senders of the same signal range, or the Jeep sending units adapted to work on the engine, which isn't that hard to do really.

 

Something you may want to consider with that current engine is that it looks like a front sump oil pan in the picture.  If it is, you may want to switch to a rear sump pan.

Yes it is a front sump. You think i'll have clearance issues? I plan on getting a 2wd beam axle. I plan on doing a full custom dash setup. I like things to look uniform and not all hodgepodged together. Lol

I just want to get her running first though. 

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With the 2wd beam axle it may be ok.  I would at least keep the possibility in mind, and definitely verify clearance of the pan while it's early in the build.  I'd put the engine in, remove the springs, and lift that axle up until you hit the bump stops and see if it hits.  If not, you're ok, if so, rear sump would be a good idea.

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With the 2wd beam axle it may be ok.  I would at least keep the possibility in mind, and definitely verify clearance of the pan while it's early in the build.  I'd put the engine in, remove the springs, and lift that axle up until you hit the bump stops and see if it hits.  If not, you're ok, if so, rear sump would be a good idea.

Thank you for your input! I hadn't considered that. 

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