My latest project

[acfortier]

Hey all, been a long time since I've been active after I got rid of my Comanche (worst car-related decision yet...). I recently got the itch to get another one, but in my quest for my next project, I stumbled across this...

 

 

It's a 1981 J-10 Laredo... got a AMC 360, A727, NP228/229? (Part-time 4WD). Body is unbelievably sound for being in the northeast... No rot at all. Frame is solid too.

 

Mechnically, it's gonna need some work. Windshield is cracked, e-brake is disconnected, needs a new oil pan (looks like a previous owner tried to patch it cause it was leaking?), and some general maintenance.

 

Also, a strange ratling is coming from the transmission, sounds like flexplate bolts are loose. At least that's what the the guy I bought it from said. We'll see how bad the damage is... :thumbsup:

 

We'll see what we have planned for it. Not sure how far into resto-mode I want to go... Definitely want to get it driveable for this upcoming spring season.

 

:banana:

[dasbulliwagen]

If you haven't been there yet the International Full Sized Jeep Association should be a good resource. Love that truck. Good luck with it. Keep us updated.

[jimoshel]

What's the story on the grill? Front panel? Definately not '81.

[acfortier]

What's the story on the grill? Front panel? Definately not '81.

 

Person I bought it from said it was swapped out by a previous owner. I have another chrome grill in the back, which I assume was the correct one from '81. I kinda like what's on it now though...  :dunno:

 

After doing some investigation and using this VIN decoder (http://oljeep.com/gw/vin_81-86.html), according to that, it seems that it originally had the 258 with a 4-spd on the floor. I'll have to look more closely to see if that's true or not. Person I bought it from definitely said the engine was swapped in, also mentioned that the tranny was rebuilt at some point. It might make sense that this was all swapped in since the dash looked like it was all roughed up, and none of the gauges work on it.

[ComancheKid45]

Love the j trucks! Slowly picking away at mine over time. Yours looks like an excellent baseline for a project!

[acfortier]

Definitely! I couldn't believe the condition the body/frame is in... Here are some more pictures:

 

 

Engine has some aftermarket ignition installed. Not really sure on specifics.

 

 

Picture of the frame rail from under the hood.

 

I'll take some better ones later if anyone else is interested. I signed up over at IFSJA, but still need to get my account activated so I can start posting.

 

First step is to find the correct cables and components for the parking brake. There is a cable going down from the pedal, and two cables going to the wheels, but it seems like it's missing all the intermediate hardware and cable...

[jimoshel]

I have a complete chassis from a '65 J10. The brake system is still intact. If you're interested, let me know.

[Incommando]

It is very popular to swap the grill, plates, and headlights from a late 60's FSJ onto a newer one. It is known a a "gladiator swap."

 

The 228/229 is a full-time case. The front axle will not have locking hubs but a solid cap on the end. The part time case that year was an np208. Except for fleet service the 208 was used on the stick shift trucks. On my phone screen it looks like that axle is the non-lockout version. Factory front axle would have lockouts if it had a part time 208.

 

That distributor is a common upgrade as the factory ignition was not well loved. Basically the top is a GM V8 HEI distributor with integral coil with the shaft for the AMC motor. Davis Unified Ignition ( DUI )is the high end brand but Chinese knock offs are readily available.

[acfortier]

I have a complete chassis from a '65 J10. The brake system is still intact. If you're interested, let me know.

 

Thanks for the offer. I may have to hit you up on that  :thumbsup:

 

I think I found the hardware inside the cab. Here's a picture (not mine) which is what I have (minus the intermediate cable):

 

 

Now, the real problem is figuring out which lengths to buy.There are two different fronts listed, both of which could apply to my truck; two different rears, which is easier since I need the 131" WB ones; and two different intermediates, both of which could apply. I'll probably pull the front cable to figure out how long it is, but the intermediate is either 37" or 47". I'd be tempted to get the 47" one, but I'd rather be right the first time... Or I could just get both.

 

Looking at Bruin Brakes, because MADE IN USA and all  :cheers:

Front options:

Bruin Brake Cable - 93335 - Front - Jeep - CERTIFIED - MADE IN USA - 

1980-1981

Jeep

J10

Automatic Trans.,

Inner Cable Length = 51.63 " Outer Housing Length = 40.63 "

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bruin-Brake-Cable-93335-Front-Jeep-CERTIFIED-MADE-IN-USA-/121093064270?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1981%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3AJ10%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A5.9L&hash=item1c31b5864e&vxp=mtr

 

Bruin Bake Cable - 93336 - Front - Jeep - CERTIFIED - MADE IN USA

1981-1986

Jeep

J10

Standard Trans., 4 Speed Trans., Automatic Trans.

Inner Cable Length = 45.75 " Outer Housing Length = 34.88 "

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bruin-Bake-Cable-93336-Front-Jeep-CERTIFIED-MADE-IN-USA-/121093065834?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1981%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3AJ10%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A5.9L&hash=item1c31b58c6a&vxp=mtr

 

Intermediate options:

Bruin Brake Cable - 93032 - Intermed - Chevy/GMC/Jeep - CERTIFIED - MADE IN USA

1980-1987

Jeep

J10

Automatic Trans.

Inner Cable Length = 37 " 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bruin-Brake-Cable-93032-Intermed-Chevy-GMC-Jeep-CERTIFIED-MADE-IN-USA-/121043386654?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1981%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3AJ10%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A5.9L&hash=item1c2ebf811e&vxp=mtr

 

Bruin Brake Cable - 93031 - Intermediate - Jeep - CERTIFIED - MADE IN USA

1981-1986

Jeep

J10

Standard Trans., Automatic Trans., 4 Speed Trans.

Inner Cable Length = 47 " 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bruin-Brake-Cable-93031-Intermediate-Jeep-CERTIFIED-MADE-IN-USA-/110993562274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1981%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3AJ10%7CSubmodel%3ABase%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A5.9L&hash=item19d7bb5aa2&vxp=mtr

[acfortier]

It is very popular to swap the grill, plates, and headlights from a late 60's FSJ onto a newer one. It is known a a "gladiator swap."

 

The 228/229 is a full-time case. The front axle will not have locking hubs but a solid cap on the end. The part time case that year was an np208. Except for fleet service the 208 was used on the stick shift trucks. On my phone screen it looks like that axle is the non-lockout version. Factory front axle would have lockouts if it had a part time 208.

 

That distributor is a common upgrade as the factory ignition was not well loved. Basically the top is a GM V8 HEI distributor with integral coil with the shaft for the AMC motor. Davis Unified Ignition ( DUI )is the high end brand but Chinese knock offs are readily available.

 

Interesting... definitely has solid caps on the ends. Tried to get a picture of the tag on the transfer case, but it's so worn out that you can't read any of it. The only reason I thought it was part-time was due to the 4WD shift lever has options for 2WD, 4WD, 4LO. I guess I'll have to climb underneath again to see if I can pull more information. Or just try to spin the tires  :idea:

 

I was doing a little research on the ignition as well. Saw a black Motorcraft ignition module as well. 

[acfortier]

Just went out and pull the front cable, looks like I'll need the longer one. I think I'll just order both intermediates, they are less than $10 a pop...

[Incommando]

things get interesting I'm a 35 year old truck. The shifter sounds like the 208 which would be right for the 258/stick.

[acfortier]

things get interesting I'm a 35 year old truck. The shifter sounds like the 208 which would be right for the 258/stick.

I'll have to do more investigating. There was no sign of a clutch pedal underneath, and the tunnel cover in the cab had no sign of a stick shift. It seems likely that some may have had two trucks, swapped the internals over to a different body/frame?

I was also surprised to find a Dana 44 in the rear... Expected an AMC 20

[acfortier]

Grabbed a picture of the transfer case, and I believe it reads 208. Does this mean I have auto locking hubs with the part time transfer case?

 

 

Another oddity, what is the purpose of the stud on the leaf spring?

 

[yxmj]

Looks like a Shock mount?

[jimoshel]

That is where the shock mounts.

[acfortier]

Did they have a dual shock option? Or did someone do something else crazy to this 35 year old truck?  :yes:

 

Think I found the answer: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hlZggp4uqLfB5zZYXskuGdymOFb1vTgwMfvWmDr4R44?feat=directlink

This was taken from an '82 Cherokee 

[Incommando]

Yeah that truck has had a lot of swapping. That stud is from the sway bar link. Your sway bar is missing. You can see the spot where the bar mounted in the upper right of the pic on the frame. It is cleaner. Although there was a fairly rare dual front shock option that stud is not for a shock. Your shock is in the correct position. The dual shock setup had one shock mounted where yours is and the additional shock attached on top of the axle tube. They used a taller frame-side mount to place the top mount of the second shock higher then the original so the shocks had the same length and travel. On my phone it looks like the spring plate is swapped side to side as to me it looks like the stud is behind the axle. I am 90% sure it should be in front of the axle. Maybe it is but I can't tell on my phone screen.

 

The factory rear for an '81 J10 was for sure a model 23 ( everyone calls them model 20's but that is the CJ.

version.) If it has 8-lugs it could be the D60 rear from the J20 as the cover is very similar just bigger. Either way the rear is not original.

 

IIRC the front is not actually auto locking at the hubs. In '81 they used solid slugs to eliminate the multi-piece lockout. The228/229 fronts used a vacuum operated fork on the passenger side axle to move the two piece shaft together when in 4wd. It is called Central Axle Disconnect or CAD.

 

 

 

That t-case is a 208 and the AM on the tag is for American Motors. The 228 and especially the 229 often failed. I would say your truck was auto and had a 228/229 and they swapped in a 208 when the original failed. That would mean that the front axle was correct for the truck. Running that axle with a 208 is no problem at all.

[acfortier]

Yeah that truck has had a lot of swapping. That stud is from the sway bar link. Your sway bar is missing. You can see the spot where the bar mounted in the upper right of the pic on the frame. It is cleaner. Although there was a fairly rare dual front shock option that stud is not for a shock. Your shock is in the correct position. The dual shock setup had one shock mounted where yours is and the additional shock attached on top of the axle tube. They used a taller frame-side mount to place the top mount of the second shock higher then the original so the shocks had the same length and travel. On my phone it looks like the spring plate is swapped side to side as to me it looks like the stud is behind the axle. I am 90% sure it should be in front of the axle. Maybe it is but I can't tell on my phone screen.

 

Ah! I didn't think it was another shock mount initially... didn't inspect the top to see how a shock would line up. But, after doing some searching, I'm convinced its for the sway bar:

 

 

 

The factory rear for an '81 J10 was for sure a model 23 ( everyone calls them model 20's but that is the CJ.

version.) If it has 8-lugs it could be the D60 rear from the J20 as the cover is very similar just bigger. Either way the rear is not original.

 

IIRC the front is not actually auto locking at the hubs. In '81 they used solid slugs to eliminate the multi-piece lockout. The228/229 fronts used a vacuum operated fork on the passenger side axle to move the two piece shaft together when in 4wd. It is called Central Axle Disconnect or CAD.

 

Interesting. Only 6 lugs in the back. I read somewhere that they used D44 and AMC 20. Looks like a D44 to me from the diff. cover. I'll have to go out and take a picture/closer look. How do you know the rear isn't original? According to this, it should be an AMC 20: http://www.ifsja.org/tech/figures/db.html

 

I don't see CAD on the front axle, I remember it from the Comanche I had. Always gave me headaches. I'll have to double check to be sure though. I think it would be visible in the picture?

 

That t-case is a 208 and the AM on the tag is for American Motors. The 228 and especially the 229 often failed. I would say your truck was auto and had a 228/229 and they swapped in a 208 when the original failed. That would mean that the front axle was correct for the truck. Running that axle with a 208 is no problem at all.

 

If the VIN is any indication, the 208 and front axle was "stock" with the truck. The more and more I think about it, it would make sense to me if someone did a drivetrain swap from another truck. Might have to name it Frankenstein 

[Incommando]

Yeah the CAD is like the MJ's. All of that was from memory so my memory of the CAD years could be a little off. The D44 rear was last used in '79. From '80-'85 the AMC rear was used. The cover looks like half of a basketball. In '86 they switches back to the D44 rear.

[acfortier]

Must be swapped in then?

 

[acfortier]

Well, haven't done much due to the cold weather, but I attempted to get some compression numbers:

 

Readings (1 - 8);

120

125

125

120

125

??

120

??

 

Wasn't able to do cylinders 6 and 8 since my gauge didn't fit all too well with the heater core in the way. Didn't try too hard because at that point, it was getting really cold :)

 

What do you all think of the numbers? A bit low, but at least they are in the same range.

[acfortier]

Well, I've got good news and bad news. Finally got around to tackling the issue with the rattling from the transmission.

 

Drop the tranny, flexplate bolts are loose (so loose, I took them all out without any tools...). Good, could have been much worse.

 

Since the tranny is out, decided to drop the oil pan since it needed to be replaced as well... And that's where it started to unfold.

 

 

Oil was milky, so definitely some water in there. However, it was extremely thin and smelled of gas. Bad fuel pump? Potentially. The fuel pump that is on the engine is still shiny, so it looks new.

 

However, the worse news came after inspecting the engine underneath... Found a cracked piston skirt. Great. Engine is junk. Wouldn't have guessed since the compression numbers were decent, but it would have only been a matter of time before it blew up.

 

Not sure what to do next. Either I go the cheap route and find a used/junkyard 360, OR go with a remanufactured or rebuild the one we have. Agh, I was looking forward to driving it this spring!