91Pioneer Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 OK I think my original brake booster needs replacement, so I'm researching the 95/96 booster swap. My pedal is harder than it should be, feels like it really doesn't have any power assist and once in a while it does have assist. The outside is rusty and it obviously leaked at some point in the past. I have done some diagnosis and figured more than likely the problem is with the booster. Here's my question. Is it possible to swap in just the 95/96 booster but keep my existing 91 master cylinder? I don't want to replace the master cylinder unless I really have to, I plan on picking up a used 95/96 booster since it fits with the least modification. I understand even just swapping the booster may require me to bend my lines a bit to fit better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 I put a '96 XJ booster and matching XJ/ZJ master cylinder in Georgia my '92 when I got her. I'm 90%+ sure the older M/C isn't a direct bolt-on or, at least, it didn't appear to be when I removed my leaky one. Placed side by side there are a fair amount of differences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 It won't work. The bore and bolt pattern is different. Also, the diameter of the base that fits inside of the booster is different and would not seal to hold vacuum IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 Not what I was hoping but OK. I've been keeping my eye out for a 95/96 XJ booster because I want it to bolt in with as little work as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Master cylindars are relatively cheap anyway even if you have to replace it. I got the booster,master, & valve in one piece and it worked great by just plumbing the lines to the XJ valve and bypassing the rear sensor valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 My rear sensing valve works great so I'd like to keep it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I prefer 99 to 2004 WJ swap over 95 to 96 XJ having done both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 Cruiser, would I have to enlarge the hole and flatten the end if I use 99-04 WJ version? And what's the difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Cruiser, would I have to enlarge the hole and flatten the end if I use 99-04 WJ version? And what's the difference? Yes, you would. Just as you would with the 95 to 96. WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylindere that make putting things together MUCH easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 I need to research this more. As for the lines I could just use copper-nickel lines, they're easy to work with. My understanding is that 95/96 bolts right into my 91, no hole/grinding necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I need to research this more. As for the lines I could just use copper-nickel lines, they're easy to work with. My understanding is that 95/96 bolts right into my 91, no hole/grinding necessary. Not exactly true. The bracket on the cabin side of the firewall tends to move when the stock booster is removed. This necessitates drilling through the firewall and the bracket to get the 95 to 96 booster in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 The 96 XJ booster was a direct plug & play in my '92, no drilling, relocation, etc. I'd think it would be the same in any of the HO trucks. The only necessary fab work was bending some brake lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I need to research this more. As for the lines I could just use copper-nickel lines, they're easy to work with. My understanding is that 95/96 bolts right into my 91, no hole/grinding necessary. This is true for your 91. No drilling or whatever. Use the 1/4" spacer if you can then there's no messing with the firewall lip. PnP except for making up new master to distribution block lines. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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