No Heater Blower Fan

[Virginia]

Not factory but it works.

[Ωhm]

If you remove the radio's 15A fuse from the fuse panel, does the radio still work? Also does the cigar lighter work with or without the fuse?

[Virginia]

I'll have to check when I get home.

[Virginia]

Neither the radio nor the cigarette lighter work with or without the 15A radio fuse.

[Ωhm]

 

Is vehicle equipped with a factory radio, and does it work?

 

 

Not factory but it works.

 

 

Neither the radio nor the cigarette lighter work with or without the 15A radio fuse.

 

Now I get all mixed up, unless things are real simple.  Does the radio work with the radio fuse in and doesn't work with the radio fuse out or it just doesn't work at all, with or without the fuse?

 

If the radio just don't work at all, you need to grab that test light and make sure the following fuses are Hot (12vdc):

 

1. Blower fuse

2. Turn B/U fuse

3. Radio fuse

 

These fuses are tied back to IP_Splice_E. (mj1988electicmanual pg 8) I can't post photos, yet. Maybe someone can help here. IP_S_E is a five (5) wire splice containing the following:

 

1. Blower fuse, Turn B/U fuse & Radio fuse.

2. Horn Relay

3. Wiper/Washer circuit

4. Not Used

5. Ign Sw (A)

 

All three (3) of your symptoms deal with this splice. I can only hope your fuses are Hot.

[Virginia]

No, the radio doesn't work at all. I'll test the fuses.

[Virginia]

None of those have power.

[Virginia]

I found that manual as a pdf and downloaded it.  I don't know what the connector looks like and assume it's under the dash somewhere.  And if those fuses aren't getting power, it appears that the tan wire from the ignition is what feeds that.  So, thinking outloud, I should find that tan wire and test it to see if it's hot on the ignition side of the connector.  If it's not, then do I that the steering column apart?

[Ωhm]

...tan wire...   BRN (brown) wire from Ign Sw (A).

 

If your Wiper/Washers work, your good from the Ign Sw (A) to the IP_S_E.

A splice is used when wires of the same circuit come together (No connector). They're tied together, soldered and taped. Look at IP Harness Location in that download you got. Page 91 show location of IP_S_E.

[Virginia]

I'm looking at the diagram and don't see anything named "IP Harness".  Would it have another name?

[Ωhm]

INSTRUMENT PANEL HARNESS

HEATER/AIR CONDITIONING HARNESS

2.5L/4.0L

 

Should be page 91.

[Virginia]

And the wipers work.

[Virginia]

Right.  I'm looking at that page but I'm not seeing where all the wires to these things would be joined.

[Ωhm]

The letters shown in the harness with the circles around them, is the location of the splice. Splices are buried within the wiring looms. Repairs require opening the wire loom.

[Virginia]

So, am I looking for an S with a circle and an E with a circle?

[Ωhm]

No, IP_S refers to IP harness_Splice, while IP_S_E refers to IP harness_Splice_E with a circle around it.

[Virginia]

HOT DAMN, that confirms what I thought.  I found that on the diagram.  Now to find it in the truck.  And let me guess, this won't be easy to get to under the dash.  Any tips about that?

[Ωhm]

Truthfully, job requires a Harness Surgeon, along with a Dash/Cluster Master. But go for it, just make sure you disconnect the battery first.

[Virginia]

Know one of those in Memphis?

[Virginia]

And does it require the removal of the dash?

[Virginia]

Now I've got a mechanic trying to tell me that it sounds like a power control module. The diagnostic is 112 then the part if used is about 200 and new it's very expensive.  Is there a way for me to rule out the power control module?

[HOrnbrod]

If your ignition switch is maladjusted or the connector is fried (common problem) there could be no power to the brown wire that feeds the blower fuse in the RUN position. I suggest you at least visually check this switch and connector first. Here's a good link to check/adjust your ignition switch.
 
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/basic-maintenance-ignition-switch-1226376/
 
Ignition switch alignment procedure:
 

Ignition switch, p/n J3250576, available at Rockauto and others. Connector also.


Ignition switch alignment:



Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioning
On non-tilt columns:
Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.
Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
On tilt columns:
Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.
Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
Install any components removed for switch access.

[Virginia]

Oh boy.  that looks daunting.

[HOrnbrod]

If you drop the column as described, then you can reach in and unplug the ignition switch and look for fried terminals on the connector. If the connector looks okay, then you probably just need to adjust the rod.

 

Depending on if your column is tilt or non-tilt and what year truck, the switch might look different than the link, but the procedure is basically the same. The main thing you want to do is eyeball the connector pins.........

[Virginia]

That will be a weekend project. The problem is that this is a daily driver and not having it working is causing some headaches. I'm almost to the point of selling both of them.