Virginia Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Not factory but it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 If you remove the radio's 15A fuse from the fuse panel, does the radio still work? Also does the cigar lighter work with or without the fuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 I'll have to check when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Neither the radio nor the cigarette lighter work with or without the 15A radio fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Is vehicle equipped with a factory radio, and does it work? Not factory but it works. Neither the radio nor the cigarette lighter work with or without the 15A radio fuse. Now I get all mixed up, unless things are real simple. Does the radio work with the radio fuse in and doesn't work with the radio fuse out or it just doesn't work at all, with or without the fuse? If the radio just don't work at all, you need to grab that test light and make sure the following fuses are Hot (12vdc): 1. Blower fuse 2. Turn B/U fuse 3. Radio fuse These fuses are tied back to IP_Splice_E. (mj1988electicmanual pg 8) I can't post photos, yet. Maybe someone can help here. IP_S_E is a five (5) wire splice containing the following: 1. Blower fuse, Turn B/U fuse & Radio fuse. 2. Horn Relay 3. Wiper/Washer circuit 4. Not Used 5. Ign Sw (A) All three (3) of your symptoms deal with this splice. I can only hope your fuses are Hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 No, the radio doesn't work at all. I'll test the fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 None of those have power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 I found that manual as a pdf and downloaded it. I don't know what the connector looks like and assume it's under the dash somewhere. And if those fuses aren't getting power, it appears that the tan wire from the ignition is what feeds that. So, thinking outloud, I should find that tan wire and test it to see if it's hot on the ignition side of the connector. If it's not, then do I that the steering column apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 ...tan wire... BRN (brown) wire from Ign Sw (A). If your Wiper/Washers work, your good from the Ign Sw (A) to the IP_S_E. A splice is used when wires of the same circuit come together (No connector). They're tied together, soldered and taped. Look at IP Harness Location in that download you got. Page 91 show location of IP_S_E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 I'm looking at the diagram and don't see anything named "IP Harness". Would it have another name? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 INSTRUMENT PANEL HARNESS HEATER/AIR CONDITIONING HARNESS 2.5L/4.0L Should be page 91. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 And the wipers work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Right. I'm looking at that page but I'm not seeing where all the wires to these things would be joined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 The letters shown in the harness with the circles around them, is the location of the splice. Splices are buried within the wiring looms. Repairs require opening the wire loom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 So, am I looking for an S with a circle and an E with a circle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 No, IP_S refers to IP harness_Splice, while IP_S_E refers to IP harness_Splice_E with a circle around it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 HOT DAMN, that confirms what I thought. I found that on the diagram. Now to find it in the truck. And let me guess, this won't be easy to get to under the dash. Any tips about that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Truthfully, job requires a Harness Surgeon, along with a Dash/Cluster Master. But go for it, just make sure you disconnect the battery first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Know one of those in Memphis? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 And does it require the removal of the dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Now I've got a mechanic trying to tell me that it sounds like a power control module. The diagnostic is 112 then the part if used is about 200 and new it's very expensive. Is there a way for me to rule out the power control module? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 If your ignition switch is maladjusted or the connector is fried (common problem) there could be no power to the brown wire that feeds the blower fuse in the RUN position. I suggest you at least visually check this switch and connector first. Here's a good link to check/adjust your ignition switch. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/basic-maintenance-ignition-switch-1226376/ Ignition switch alignment procedure: Ignition switch, p/n J3250576, available at Rockauto and others. Connector also.Ignition switch alignment:Fig. 2: Ignition switch rod positioningOn non-tilt columns:Move the ignition switch slider to the OFF unlocked position (move the slider all the way down, then back two clicks). The remote rod hole in the ignition switch slider should now be centered.Insert the remote rod in the ignition switch slider hole and install the ignition switch on the steering column. Tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).On tilt columns:Insert the ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the OFF unlocked position.Move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).Install any components removed for switch access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Oh boy. that looks daunting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 If you drop the column as described, then you can reach in and unplug the ignition switch and look for fried terminals on the connector. If the connector looks okay, then you probably just need to adjust the rod. Depending on if your column is tilt or non-tilt and what year truck, the switch might look different than the link, but the procedure is basically the same. The main thing you want to do is eyeball the connector pins......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 That will be a weekend project. The problem is that this is a daily driver and not having it working is causing some headaches. I'm almost to the point of selling both of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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