Kickinmule Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Good that you got the stall worked out. Still researchin mine. Just dropped the T500 hpop in my 99 7.3 and ordered the bellowed up pipes and the evpb delete turbo pedestal and high flow outlet for next upgrade. OBS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Good that you got the stall worked out. Still researchin mine. Just dropped the T500 hpop in my 99 7.3 and ordered the bellowed up pipes and the evpb delete turbo pedestal and high flow outlet for next upgrade. OBS! Thanks. it feels good to hop in the Mj and it crank right and up and have no problems from point A to point B. I am still learning about performance up grades on the 7.3L but right now it needs injector harnesses and valve cover gasket replaced on the drivers side (already did the passenger side). I know one of the first performance related mods I will do to it is aftermarket down pipe. Do the bellowed up pipes make much of a difference? Is the T500 hpop a bigger then stock pump and do you need it because of bigger injectors? Someone has already "deleted" the evpb on my OBS. lol Anyways I think my dad is bringing a tractor over to the house within the next few days so I may bring the AMC 20 back up to the house and start tinkering with it. The AMC 20 has 4.10 gears, the 2wd MJ will be ready for the drag strip. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickinmule Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 The Bellowed up pipes are to cure the power and fuel efficiency losses when the old style up pipe donuts go bad. The terminator T500 hpop is a higher volume reman of your own core pump and just makes stock injectors fire more better but can really add performance if coupled with different injectors. I got mine from RiffRaff diesel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 The Bellowed up pipes are to cure the power and fuel efficiency losses when the old style up pipe donuts go bad. The terminator T500 hpop is a higher volume reman of your own core pump and just makes stock injectors fire more better but can really add performance if coupled with different injectors. I got mine from RiffRaff diesel. I bought my injector harnesses and valve cover gaskets from RiffRaff. I was very pleased with the prices and the service. I really liked the bible verse on the packing tape as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 Last Thursday my wife noticed the MJ taking a leak in the driveway. The upper radiator hose had sprung a leak, I was aware of its being in questionable condition and it finally let go. So I changed that out and drove it a few hundred miles over the weekend. I have also been having a steady power steering leak and I have been "flushing' the steering fluid by sucking the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster and then refilling with fresh. I have done this probably 3 times and I finally decided it looked clear enough to try some lucas stop leak. I will let you know how that works out. Lastly should my radiator be able to move forwards and backwards like this?? Seems like I am missing something that should hold it solid?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Time marches on and so does the MJ. The latest thing to give up on this oh gal is the starter. It was the original starter and I should of had it rebuilt but I had it traded off to Autozone and AZ starter #1 in the truck before I thought of a rebuild. AZ starter #1 did not disengage from the rein-gear very good so i pulled it off and put alittle yellow paint on the gear just to see what kinda engagement I had before I faulted the starter components. After I started the truck 3 times. I was not sure what to make of it but the AZ counter guy thought it looked great and faulted a component of the starter so I got AZ starter #2. I installed it and so far so good. BTW I got my CJ5 running! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeast Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Time marches on and so does the MJ. The latest thing to give up on this oh gal is the starter. It was the original starter and I should of had it rebuilt but I had it traded off to Autozone and AZ starter #1 in the truck before I thought of a rebuild. AZ starter #1 did not disengage from the rein-gear very good so i pulled it off and put alittle yellow paint on the gear just to see what kinda engagement I had before I faulted the starter components. After I started the truck 3 times. I was not sure what to make of it but the AZ counter guy thought it looked great and faulted a component of the starter so I got AZ starter #2. I installed it and so far so good. BTW I got my CJ5 running! Whahoo! Man that jeep looks fun! Glad to see the progress! Keep it up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 In case any one was curious I added up the receipts and I have invested roughly $1185.00 in the Mj to get it to its current road worthy condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Not much to report. The wife has been driving the MJ on a daily basis as we have her car up for sale. Once her car sales I am hoping to move forward with the 4x4 conversion as I think I have most of the Gremlins worked out now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 We sold the car. At this rate I figured it is going to be awhile before I would need AT tires so I put some new light duty steer tires on the front. One of the used tires I had bought to limp around on was starting to look pretty bad and was causing a front end shimmy. I did rough pricing of all the parts I could think of to do the 4x4 conversion correctly, meaning replace all bearings seals, chains and clutches on all 4x4 components and it came out to roughly 2k I think. Possibly less if I rebuild the transmission myself. BTW one bottle of Lucas stop leak did not fix the power steering leak but I do think it helped to slow it down. I plan to change the ATF and filter soon since the MJ is seeing more miles on the 2WD transmission then I had planned. I have a high idle problem and I think its the idle air control valve. It does it right after starting. Sometimes it idles down sometimes not. I may need to call in the warranty on my IAC valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Ok The IAC valve was getting worse so I opted to return it for a new one. Its the first Standard Brand part I have had to return. I had to pay for the shipping back to Rock Auto's warehouse in CA. Granted shipping was not much for an IAC but I would not of had to pay that if I had bought local. The transaction is not finished yet so maybe they will make it right. For the time being I put in a old IAC I found in the box of parts that came with the Comanche. It idles alittle low at cold start but its working good enough to keep the Comanche in DD duties. It now has 170K miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 The rear main leak has gotten ALOT worse. The fresh looking oil spot is after idling for about 10 minutes. I could literally watch it drip drip drip. The front PVC gromment spits oil(has been for awhile) and the oil fill cap is leaking like it always has. I am going to get a few parts and possibly tackle that tomorrow. My 2005 Ford Powerstroke is for sale and I need to get the comanche back to DD status. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 This weekend I jacked up the front of the comanche to set suspensoin at full droop and dove into the rear main seal replacement. It was a tight fit getting the oil pan out but it finally came. My parts cleaner. When i pulled the rear main cap i noticed a pretty bad gouge in the bearing. I pondered on this far awhile and decided it ran fine when i took it apart we will see how long it last. (think OM617 Swap) hehe. OIl pan all cleaned up and gasket mating surface cleaned. PB blaster seemed to work great for removing RTV. I used a 95 cherokee rubber oil pan gasket. The only complaint I have is that the little strip that goes on the rear main would not stay in place so I put a dab of RTV under it bolted the two rear bolts onto the pan to hold it in place and let it sit over night. The next morning it was ready to go.....and then it got knocked loose when squeezing the oil pan back in. oh well i think I got it where it needed to be. I also bought a new oil fill cap and front vac harness. The Vac harness should be here by Wednesday. I am going to order a rubber valve cover gasket as well. I should of used the rubber gasket the first time but I guess I like doing things twice. BTW if your oil fill cap is leaking oil just buy a new one they are only a few dollars from the auto parts store. Thats it for now. Once the vac harness and valve cover gasket make it here and are put on I think it will be ready to go and mostly oil leak free......if i did it all right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 Things have gotten alittle out of hand. I put the new vac harness in and the new valve cover gasket. Then i top it off with rotella and drive to the gas station and back, about a 4 mile round trip. I get back and oil is all over the passenger side of the engine again. I had power washed the motor off just before the RMS replacement so it was fairly easy to see the source of the oil leak. The head gasket. So now the engine looks like this: I have ordered a bore gauge and bought a micrometer off ebay so I can check cylinder wear and then go from there. I also managed to break the accelerator cable and the knock sensor while I was talking everything apart. Oh well I probably needed to replace the knock sensor anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 In other news I tracked down a 3/4 gauge cluster over the weekend. The problem I ran into was this truck is a column shift and I wanted to retain the shift indicator. dummy gauges next to 3/4 gauges: Notice dummy gauge set with shift indicator has a hole in the bottom for the shift indicator wire and the 3/4 gauge set doesn't. So I tried to approach this from two different angles. The first was to swap everything over from the 3/4 gauge housing to the dummy housing. My first rodeo so I learned the hard way that, that doesn't work. Why? Because dummy gauge housing does not receive the gauges. See the difference? 3/4 gauge housing on top dummy gauge on bottom: Plan B: Cut hole in 3/4 gauge housing for shift indicator wire. I have no dremel tool so I drilled a outline of the square with a very small drill bit and then cut it out with my knife.....not the cleanest way to do it but it worked. Problem #2. The fuel gauge from the dummy gauge set has the window in it to see the shift indicator....I need this but the dummy gauge set fuel gauge is basically upside down when compared to the 3/4 gauge set. I did not get a picture of them side by side but look at this picture. Those resistors are on the bottom side of the 3/4 gauge set fuel gauge. This effects how it bolts into the housing and how it connects to the circuit ribbon on the back of the housing. So I just took the two screws out of the front of the fuel gauge and turned the unit "upside down". It then bolts in fine and connects to the ribbon as it should. Will it still work properly?? I do not know but time will tell. I also switched speedometers between the gauge sets as well so I could keep the original mileage. Finished product: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Ok so the head checked out straight as best I could tell and the bore in the cylinders all checked out just within the standard limits according to Haynes. That is a relief. So I figure if I came this far apart with the motor I might as well change out the timing set. So i pulled the radiator. Hello! The bummer is i had to disconnect the a/c lines. One of the lines was leaking anyway. Timing cover all cleaned up and new gaskets and seal installed. I managed to break one of the stud bolts that attaqch the timing cover but found one at local salvage yard luckily. This little green pad is amazing when it comes to removing old gasket material and leaving a nice clean mating surface for the new gasket. Its made by 3M. Works great in a angle die grinder. The little brown pads in the back ground are used to buff the surface after you go over it with this green disc. It doesn't take alot of material off just aggressive enough to get the gasket material off. Here is the bottom of the head all cleaned up. I also decided to take the heads apart and lap the valves and put in new valve seals. This tool my grandpa had hanging over in the corner worked great for getting the valves out. I lapped the valves using a drill. I just attached a piece of vac hose to the end of the valve stem, put a screw inside the hose so it would chuck up in the drill and it worked great. When I took the exhaust manifold off and was pulling the o2 sensor out of it i noticed a crack at a weld. So it is at the welding shop waiting to be stitched up. hard to see as its a hairline crack but I am glad i saw it before it was all put back together. I ordered and installed the new knock sensor. It cost.....$82!!! I have spent well over $500 in parts but its basically going to be all new under the hood when I am done. At the end of this ordeal I will try to make a list of all the new parts I put on. Left to do: Install new water pump, oil sending unit, replace oil filter adapter orings, remove old valve lifters, install new lifters and then put everything back together basically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 The Comanche is all back together now. You know how I said I broke off that stud bolt for the timing cover? Ya.....i had to pull the cover back off and spent 3 hours getting the broken bolt out! Then I got to buy another timing cover gasket kit and put it back on. I then put on the new water pump. I then installed the new lifters. Prepped the engine block to receive the new head gasket and reworked head. I then stuck the head on and the rest of the valve train and then put on the exhaust mainfold. The welder found two more cracks and then he went ahead and cleaned up and rewelded most all the seams. It was twerked alittle but I got it to fit with alittle persuasion. You will notice he also welded up the EGR tube hole :) SO i cut the tube off and brazed the pipe shut. I had to use the cutting torch to braze because I do not have a brazing torch apprarently. lol Then I cut up a EGR vlave block off plate. Then I got ahead of myself and started up the truck before I primed the oil system and the lifters. It was kinda noisy but it quieted down once it got to operating temperature. Its running great. Seems abit more peppy. The gauge cluster works great except for the fuel gauge reads upside down. :doh: I kinda suspected that. Hopefully I will get another 100K out of the old 4.0L. Now once my pocket book recovers I can move on to other things. . :MJ 1: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 If the rear main doesn't solve that leak look at the distributor (and the usual OFA). Recently had to replace mine as it was leaking like a seive. Leaked worse than my OFA before I replaced the orings. Oils was coming up through the center and filling the dizzy body and leaking through it's drain hole. Mimics an OFA leak to the tee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 If the rear main doesn't solve that leak look at the distributor (and the usual OFA). Recently had to replace mine as it was leaking like a seive. Leaked worse than my OFA before I replaced the orings. Oils was coming up through the center and filling the dizzy body and leaking through it's drain hole. Mimics an OFA leak to the tee. Thank you! The work I have done recently has seemed to solve the oil leak problem. I have the orings for the OFA for when that day comes and it is good to know about the possibly dizzy leak. Its been pretty awesome seeing no oil spots on the garage floor under the truck. Although recently i have noticed the power steering leaking ever so slightly again. It maybe because of the colder weather we have had lately. I bought a Yukon CAD delete kit from a member on the PBB, its brand new. Other then that no new news. The wife has been driving the wheels off the thing. I am waiting on time and money to move further into the 4WD conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTall Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 GREAT JOB MAN! GLAD U HAVE THE MJ UP AND RUNNING STRONG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 We have been driving the fire out of this thing. I changed the oil the other day and its at 179k. While I changed the oil I changed out the OFA orings. The ones I took off were in BAD shape. Another thing I have been battling is a leak around the thermostat housing. I am on my second housing, thinking I bent the first new one and its still leaking. I guess its from some light pitting on the mating surface of the cylinder head. Here is a picture of about where its leaking from. I have put RTV on boths sides of the gasket and its still leaking. I am also working on recharging the a/c. I need a new discharge hose to finish that up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 The truck is finally blowing cold air this morning! But I do not know for how long. I was ignorant to the conversion of 12a freon to R12. Apparently 6 ounces of 12a is equivalent to 18 ounces of R12......lets say I over filled the system a smidge and the compressor may not be long for this world as a result. But anyways its been quite the saga. First I ordered a new discharge line from Jeep Air and once I got it I realized it was nothing like the one that came off our truck. So I sent the new one back along with my old hose and Jeep air made me a new one that fit perfect. I highly recommend them. In other news the passenger side window spontaneously combusted while the truck was sitting outside at my work and so I got to replace it with a brand new window and I replaced the window seals while I was at it. Now it fits so tight I can not roll the window down. So not sure what is bound up there but atleast the a/c is working......today. Broken window: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Hello! Sorry for the lack of updates. I have been super busy with life and work. My wife and I are expecting a baby girl in December so between that, buying a bulldozer and cattle, not to mention my regular job I have been busy. So not much has happened with the jeep. Besides driving it a cow broke the windshield with her nose so I got to replace it. Now the radiator is leaking. SO I guess I am going to have to anty up and switch to an open cooling system like the newer models. The jeep has 187K miles on it now. I have been pretty good about oil change every 3 to 4K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siopposition Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Where did u get new window seals for the jeep? Mine are dry rotted and very cracked. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybottoms88 Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Where did u get new window seals for the jeep? Mine are dry rotted and very cracked. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk I got them from Team Cherokee. They are nice pieces but they are so tight I can not easily roll the window up or down. They are gradually getting better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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