kook911 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 OK I have a 87, inline 6, 5 on the floor. I searched and couldn't find a answer and hope that someone can help me out as this has me stumped. When I go to engage my clutch (push the pedal to the floor) the Comanche dies. It will just spudder and die out. I cleaned my idle air control valve out with some throttle body cleaner and I put new plugs in. The wires looked good but I can change them if need be. Any thing else that I can try or do to figure out the problem? I do not think I have a vacuum leak but I could have looked passed something very easily and not known it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Check under the dash for any interference between the clutch pedal arm and any wiring. Clutch actuation is entirely hydraulic and there should be no vacuum or electrical connection. An electrical short or a wire connection that is being mashed or partially disconnected are the only things I can think of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 When I go to engage my clutch (push the pedal to the floor) the Comanche dies. It will just spudder and die out. Pushing the clutch peddle to the floor doesn't engage the clutch, it DISengages it. You're saying the truck runs with the clutch engaged, and stalls when it's DISengaged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted July 19, 2014 Author Share Posted July 19, 2014 Yes when I push the clutch pedal to the floor to go shift that when it dies. It will also die when I hold the clutch down while In neutral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Ok I think that it might be me slave cylinder on the transmission that might need bleeded. I haven't tried to bleed it yet but if any one else has any thoughts just let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Even if your slave does need to be "bleeded", that is not your problem. As mentioned above the clutch is a self-contained hydraulic system....it is not connected electrically or by any other way to the motor that would cause it to stall (normally) You should take the advice given above and with a helper just observe you clutch pedal operation....is it interfering with anything else as it goes through a normal cycle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dscowell Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Check vacuum lines I had the same problem and it was due to a vacuum line that snapped in half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 Check vacuum lines I had the same problem and it was due to a vacuum line that snapped in half. any way you could snap me a pic of said vacuum lines, as that would help me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dscowell Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 It was connected to the vacuum canister that was mounted to the original bumper. I needed to relocate it and threw it in the engine bay to get it out of the way and the old line snapped. I doubt you will have a line that is this bad, it could just be a small hole as well so I'd just make sure to check all the lines. I ended up getting the smallest line they had at AutoZone and just putting the two ends in the new line due to the new line being just a little too large. It did help my problem just it did not fix it completely. Another Idea is to check the fuel filter I know sometimes that can cause problems and it just a good thing to replace if it hasn't been replaced lately. I'd also take advice from eagle and yxmj they know much more then me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Ok back to this problem how. I had to replace the head as the bottom bolt of the thermostat bossing broke off. Got everything button back up and running and still got this problem. I did check for any issues that the pedal could be causing and it is all clear nothing in the way. The truck will idle without stalling out. If this problem can be figured out I will have a good running truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Click on the link in my signature and do posts 1 through 5, and maybe 27. What brand plugs did you use? Definitely replace the cap, rotor, and wires. Make sure your intake manifold bolts haven't loosened up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 Well Cruiser you help me out and didn't even know it. Well I think I figured it out. I found where you responded to someone else thread where they were having the same problem where if they stop they would also stall out and die. You told them to check the throttle butterfly and idle it up. Well I was idling at around 500ish. I had helped and turned it up and now it doesn't stall out. I turned it up to about 1000ish. Runs like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Well Cruiser you help me out and didn't even know it. Well I think I figured it out. I found where you responded to someone else thread where they were having the same problem where if they stop they would also stall out and die. You told them to check the throttle butterfly and idle it up. Well I was idling at around 500ish. I had helped and turned it up and now it doesn't stall out. I turned it up to about 1000ish. Runs like a charm. Which screw did you turn? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 I follow this post, but it was the screw on back throttle body. I can get a picture tomorrow but it's the screw that when you rev the motor by hand it sticks out just a little bit and has a hole on the other side to stick the Allen rench threw. I flet the need to write the following just because some guys fought high idle issues because of "Uncle Bob". Cruiser’s Renix Throttle Body Butterfly Adjustment Okay. Let's start from scratch. First off, that's not an idle adjustment screw. It's a throttle butterfly stop screw. It's purpose is to allow the butterfly to be as close to completely closed as it can be without binding or wearing into the throttle body. It was never intended to be adjusted in the field. But, Uncle bob didn’t know that, did he? Engine off. Back off the butterfly stop screw with a 3/32" allen wrench until the butterfly is completely closed. Now. turn the screw in until the FAINTEST movement of the butterfly opening is detected. This can be done more easily with the throttle body removed. If you remove the throttle body, be sure to replace the gasket underneath it after thoroughly cleaning the old one off. Revised 07/07/2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 We want to make sure you're not Uncle Bob here. LOL. 1000 RPM is kinda high. Did you follow the instructions above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 15, 2014 Author Share Posted August 15, 2014 I followed it and it not at extacly 1000rpm. It's below 1k rpm. But it doesn't die so that to me is good. My auto xj idles at about the same as the mj. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 How did you adjust it? by the seat of your pants, or per the instructions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 well I had a guy twisting the screw all the way close. then i had him turn it till it could run with the clutch disengage. Then we backed it off till it was running fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 The screw on the passenger side, or the driver side of the throttle body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 here is a pic and I circle it in black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 That's the "Uncle Bob" screw. Needs to be set with the engine off using my instructions. Not to be used to set a desired idle speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 I will get to it tomorrow and the problem is still there, but I did notice that it dropped my idle back down. So I will need to find why it is dropping idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Been doing some more research and don't know if it could be the problem or not but some people say that the CPS or TPS can cause my stalling that I am experiencing. So after work tomorrow I will be checking them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Post 7 in my Tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 Ok so i check the tps and that is good. When I check the cps it only showed .2, so I'm guessing that it is bad? I never have a problem with it starting after it stalls out but I have read that the cps can stall out the truck. Also isd there a easy way to get the cps out? I just want this problem solved. Hate to do it but I might have to drop it off at the shop if I can't get it to run right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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