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Electrical Diagnosis??? Lots Of Pictures, Could Use Some Help!


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Hello all! I posted a ways back about a new comanche I was lucky enough to find.

 

Right now there is one extremely daunting task that I am debating turning over to a mechanic, but I wanted to stop by here first to see what you guys thought, because I trust this forum way more than most of the mechanics that would be giving me quotes.

 

For instance, I spoke with one on the phone today that stopped me and said "I already know what the problem is. You don't have to say anything more. You need an entirely new wiring harness and need to re-wire everything. Going to run you about $2,400 and anyone that says they'll do it for cheap is going to ruin your car".

 

So, obviously I'm doing everything I can to not pay someone $2,400 because that sounds insanely ridiculous, but my issue is that if I dive into this wiring situation alone, I'm afraid my Comanche may not be able to be revived. There are far too many wires in this car and not that much information on the process from beginning to end.

 

So! Below are lots of pictures of my current wiring set up as well as a detailed description of the problems I'm experiencing. I will be as thorough as possible in hopes someone can guide me in the right direction. I'm not opposed to fixing it, as long as there is something i can reference. But if you guys think this kind of situation is better in the hands of a professional, I'm willing to turn this one job over to a mechanic, but would prefer to know what it is that needs to be fixed so I don't have people telling me it's going to be $2,400...

 

List of problems:

-Crossed wires cause the car to not start or turn off every once in a while. After messing with the wires, it will restart. This seems to be occurring around the main positive/negative battery wires.

-No turn signals. They worked once, haven't worked since.

-A/C turns on half the time, half the time it doesn't

-Horn works 25% of the time, 75% it does not work

-Windshield wipers are on and off, but seem to be working more consistently now

-Some kind of wire crossing caused my last battery to drain extremely quickly

-oil gauge does not work

Annnd I think that's mostly it. A lot of on and off stuff. Just want to get everything consistently working. Any thoughts on best solutions are welcome, cheapest options exceptionally welcome!

 

 

https://imageshack.com/i/ip089f27j

https://imageshack.com/i/f0e06cb5j

https://imageshack.com/i/hla6bc5dj

https://imageshack.com/i/p5e193b2j

https://imageshack.com/i/ez529218j

https://imageshack.com/i/p446cd16j

https://imageshack.com/i/km221dbdj

https://imageshack.com/i/f0ceea38j

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Oil gauge is probably the sending unit. It sits right next to the cap and rotor if you have the 4.0.

 

If I were you I'd google some schematic reading lessons. Maybe YouTube. Schematics for everything on a XJ/MJ is readily available.

 

Once you learn how to read schematics, look up the proper schematic for your problem, then take it one issue at a time.

 

 

Highly doubt you need a new wiring harness

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A $2,400 quote over the phone without seeing it? Bad mechanic. He should have said, bring it in, we'll charge an hour or what it takes to do a diagnosis and go from there. You might need a new harness (which I doubt) but he's jumping the gun.

 

There are some super knowledgeable folks here, we need more details, but try to tackle things one at a time. If yours is an 88, there is an electronic copy of the 88 electrical workshop manual kicking around somewhere.

 

Also, if we know year/engine, etc. I'm sure folks here could post photos of their stock wiring so you can see for yourself how things are supposed to be (but the schematics are better LOL).

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Find a post by Cruiser and follow his advice to check all connections. Unless your wiring harness has been totally butchered by a previous owner, it's highly unlikely that you need to replace the entire harness. However, connections get corroded, and that can cause all kinds of intermittent problems.

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Find a post by Cruiser and follow his advice to check all connections. Unless your wiring harness has been totally butchered by a previous owner, it's highly unlikely that you need to replace the entire harness. However, connections get corroded, and that can cause all kinds of intermittent problems.

It's all in my link below. Posts 1 through 5, and maybe even 27. Thanks, Eagle.

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Awesome guys. Thanks so much for the fast replies. Here is some info you guys requested about my MJ:

 

1989 eliminator

manual transmission

6 cylinder 4.0L

 

Cruiser, I will read through all of that. Thank you!

 

I do not think I need a new wiring harness either. That's why I came here! You guys know way more than any mechanic that quotes you over the phone. Already making some head way. Thanks again, guys.

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...You guys know way more than any mechanic that quotes you over the phone...

 

Hells yeah.

 

Your '89 should be pretty much identical to the '88. Go to this link to download a PDF copy of the factory electrical manual, it will be extremely helpful (along with cruisers tips and others' input): http://www.alpinefurniturestore.com/JeepDocumentation/jeeps.html

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I had the no start thing too. Solved it by running a wire from battery to starter and wiring it to a small black button under the dash.

 

Horn does that too. My problem seems to be the button in the steering wheel. Not positive. Always been more pressing issues.

 

AC might wana check the freon charge. These things (mine does) have a kill switch that it'll turn on and try and run and if there isn't enough freon in the system it'll shut itself down to try and avoid burning itself up.

 

Similar drain. Can't figger out what though. It's pretty big. Causes a decent spark when reconnecting the battery.

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Awesome guys. Thanks so much for the fast replies. Here is some info you guys requested about my MJ:

 

1989 eliminator

manual transmission

6 cylinder 4.0L

 

Cruiser, I will read through all of that. Thank you!

 

I do not think I need a new wiring harness either. That's why I came here! You guys know way more than any mechanic that quotes you over the phone. Already making some head way. Thanks again, guys.

Only need to do 1,3,4, and 5. 3 and 27 don't apply to an 89. 

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What does the back of your fuse panel look like?  The 88 I just rewired had 7 loose fuse holders the previous owner put in to "fix" broken or corroded fuse holder clips.  Of course, they were all loosely attached by twisting wires together, so stuff was still intermittent.   Spent 8 hours replacing fuse holders / bus bars in the back of the fuse panel.  Used parts from a first generation GMC S-15 pick up (89 I think).  They use the same parts in the fuse panel even though they are a different shape. All the connections I made were soldered which was a bit of a challenge with old, corroded wiring. Used flux that plumbers use on copper pipe to clean the wires.

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