Mr.Oz Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Son just got this Comanche, 86 4x4 LWB with the 2.8L. already looking at finding a 3.4 or maybe another 2.8 and bore it out to the 3.4. It does have the AX-15 and older 231. Front end from a 97 up cherokee and still the rear D35 with factory limited slip. A 8.25 rear end came with the truck along with the original front end. Has a Rough Country 4.5" lift up front with AAL in the rear. Not new to Jeeps, have a 83 SJ Cherokee, bought it over in Italy and have done all my own work, right now building a 4.6L stroker to toss in. Turned my son on to Jeeps when I showed him that Jeep made J-trucks, like my Cherokee. Then I showed him a Comanche, he loved the looks and really likes that you really don't see them around. So some questions, Will doors from a 99 Cherokee bolt right up to an 86 Comanche. Looking at a pair with power locks, windows and mirrors. Thinking I can just hook up power and gorund run it through some relays then run wiring from one door, under the dash to the other. Plan on doing the brake booster upgrade, found a few Grand Cheros in the yards and some 96/96 Cheros, what would be the better booster and would taking that load sensing valve thing off the rear brakes be a good thing to do. Turn signal lever is not really working, found two steering columns in the yeards, both are tilting ones. One from a 93 cherokee, no air bag, and one from a 96 cherokee, with air bag and key, which one would be the easier install, wire wise? Fuel gauge is pegged full, little gas in tank, about a gallon, ground issue or gauge problem? . Gas tank, fuel pump and lines were replaced by PO about 2 years ago, if sending unit is tost, where is a good place to get another? The gauge cluster has a spedoo, and fuel gauge, then dummy lights. How hard would it be to get a gauge cluster out of a cherokee with all gauges and a tach and swap it into the comanche? I have read that grounding issues can cause major headakes, would trying to tie all grounds to the same place , or at least to a grounding bar, be a good idea? The headliner in the truck is busted up. A little better one came with the purchase, my thought was to maybe use the least damaged one as a mold for making a fiberglass headliner, anyone tried this? Son read someplace that the Rough Country front springs tend to brake. We have a set of 4" lift springs we took off a 03 TJ, the fronts look like they might be good replacements, thoughts? My son would like to put in a cherokee center console, I would like to move te emer. brake from the peddle to the pull type in the console, thought I saw some one already made this mod, now can't find or remember where I saw it. And one last question, where is a good place on line to get a factory service manual, or a free download. I have done this for my 83 SJ cherokee and for anothers son's 79 280zx. Truck also came with a sliding rear window but has the solid window in it now. I think my son is going to keep the solid one. Has a removable bed liner also, son took that out and wants to get rid of it. Both of those might be up for sale. few requests, I also read on this fourm to "protect your rockers" anyone have pics of home grown "rocker sliders" or "boat sides" on these trucks. Also may be looking for a rear "roll bar" and rear bumper pics, will be removing the stock rear bumper and make one that is tucked up closer to the truck. thoughts welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Son just got this Comanche, 86 4x4 LWB with the 2.8L. already looking at finding a 3.4 or maybe another 2.8 and bore it out to the 3.4. It does have the AX-15 and older 231. Front end from a 97 up cherokee and still the rear D35 with factory limited slip. A 8.25 rear end came with the truck along with the original front end. Has a Rough Country 4.5" lift up front with AAL in the rear. thoughts welcome Thoughts: (1) It almost certainly doesn't have an AX-15 transmission, because Jeep didn't start using that until mid-1989, and it only fits the 4.0L. Your son may have an AX-5. (2) Jeep wasn't using the 231 transfer case in 1986, either. You probably have an NP 207. (3) Do NOT try to bore out a 2.8L to 3.4L. You may or may not be able to bore it that much, but the later 3.4L engines had MANY improvements over the 2.8L, and just boring out a 2.8L won't get you any of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Son just got this Comanche, 86 4x4 LWB with the 2.8L. already looking at finding a 3.4 or maybe another 2.8 and bore it out to the 3.4. It does have the AX-15 and older 231. Front end from a 97 up cherokee and still the rear D35 with factory limited slip. A 8.25 rear end came with the truck along with the original front end. Has a Rough Country 4.5" lift up front with AAL in the rear. Not new to Jeeps, have a 83 SJ Cherokee, bought it over in Italy and have done all my own work, right now building a 4.6L stroker to toss in. Turned my son on to Jeeps when I showed him that Jeep made J-trucks, like my Cherokee. Then I showed him a Comanche, he loved the looks and really likes that you really don't see them around. So some questions, Will doors from a 99 Cherokee bolt right up to an 86 Comanche. Looking at a pair with power locks, windows and mirrors. Thinking I can just hook up power and gorund run it through some relays then run wiring from one door, under the dash to the other. Yes and no. Yes the newer doors will bolt up just fine, but the door strikers are different and will need to be replaced with the newer style. Its not that hard to do, just some light cutting/measuring/welding. Here is a good writeup done by JP magazine and best of all they actually use a Comanche for the swap! http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/body-chassis/154-0901-jeep-cherokee-xj-door-upgade/ Plan on doing the brake booster upgrade, found a few Grand Cheros in the yards and some 96/96 Cheros, what would be the better booster and would taking that load sensing valve thing off the rear brakes be a good thing to do. Taking the rear load sensing valve off isnt a bad idea IF it is not functioning properly. Removing it resolves a lot of headache when it comes to bleeding the brakes. IF its working, leave it be. IF its not, yank it. The brake booster upgrade is up there in the top 3 best mods you can do. However, deciding on which route you are going to take. . . . well, the jury still seems to be out on that one. There are several different ways you can go about doing it, all of which will give you the same results, the trick is to determine which way is the path of least resistance. Here are three links that should help. FWIW, when you go to do this i recommend you replace the ghetto rigged setup that jeep thought was a good idea with a chevy brake button. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEUQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DUPL2ZqcDQoY&ei=q427U4WVB4njsAT9-YGYBg&usg=AFQjCNE-jNv2-yc_J9Wx1jTadHs5VguFvA&sig2=fWJKUwPZcH8_Mc0W1GaB7w&bvm=bv.70138588,d.cWc http://comancheclub.com/topic/39437-1996-xj-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-conversion/?hl=brake+booster http://comancheclub.com/topic/24430-wj-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/?hl=brake+booster&do=findComment&comment=263858 Turn signal lever is not really working, found two steering columns in the yeards, both are tilting ones. One from a 93 cherokee, no air bag, and one from a 96 cherokee, with air bag and key, which one would be the easier install, wire wise? can't really comment, but i would tend to think that the 93 would be easier. But the 93 is an HO, so even though it may bolt into place the connectors may be wrong. Same goes for the 96, but even more so. Fuel gauge is pegged full, little gas in tank, about a gallon, ground issue or gauge problem? . Gas tank, fuel pump and lines were replaced by PO about 2 years ago, if sending unit is tost, where is a good place to get another? can't remember how the gauge reads, but if the sender is toast, which it probably is, the only place to find another is a JY or a CC member. I spent a month searching online computer/electronic gizmo stores talking with techs and everything and was never able to come up with a viable replacement option. The gauge cluster has a spedoo, and fuel gauge, then dummy lights. How hard would it be to get a gauge cluster out of a cherokee with all gauges and a tach and swap it into the comanche? It would be a process, but it is doable and has been done many times. I will let someone with more experience on this subject chime in, since my MJ came with the full gauges i have never had to do this. I have read that grounding issues can cause major headakes, would trying to tie all grounds to the same place , or at least to a grounding bar, be a good idea? IMO, you want a couple of different grounding points. 1 for the main battery to block, 1 for block to chasis, If you solder all you junctions and use a good sized ground cable i think it would be perfectly acceptable to ground the interior harness this way. It is the way i am going to do it. The headliner in the truck is busted up. A little better one came with the purchase, my thought was to maybe use the least damaged one as a mold for making a fiberglass headliner, anyone tried this? don't know. Son read someplace that the Rough Country front springs tend to brake. We have a set of 4" lift springs we took off a 03 TJ, the fronts look like they might be good replacements, thoughts? don't know. My son would like to put in a cherokee center console, I would like to move te emer. brake from the peddle to the pull type in the console, thought I saw some one already made this mod, now can't find or remember where I saw it. Yes, it has been done, but again hopefully someone with more experience will chime in. And one last question, where is a good place on line to get a factory service manual, or a free download. I have done this for my 83 SJ cherokee and for anothers son's 79 280zx. Truck also came with a sliding rear window but has the solid window in it now. I think my son is going to keep the solid one. Has a removable bed liner also, son took that out and wants to get rid of it. Both of those might be up for sale. few requests, I also read on this fourm to "protect your rockers" anyone have pics of home grown "rocker sliders" or "boat sides" on these trucks. Also may be looking for a rear "roll bar" and rear bumper pics, will be removing the stock rear bumper and make one that is tucked up closer to the truck. thoughts welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbyrambler Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 " thought I saw some one already made this mod, now can't find or remember where I saw it." Google search - - - site:comancheclub.com & keyword/keywords - - site:naxja.org & keyword/keywords - - - Console - E brake relocate using "site:comancheclub.com console brake" yielded this; https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=site:comancheclub.com+console+brake You're gonna like CC - Tons of expertise, ideas & opinions Cruiser's tips in DIY is the place to start - :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Oz Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 thanks for the responce so far. I have been lurking around the DIY, and the projects threads. Forgot about the AX-5, duh....picked up a YJ with a 4 banger TBI a few years ago. Ended up redoing/adding all new gauges, replacing the xfr case, tranny (ax-5) and eventually swaped in a MPFI 4 banger....then sold it. yea, these trucks are a vaccume. I took the week off to get some of my project completed (stroker install in my 83 SJ) but have started small things on this Comanche. I also need to push this same son along with another of our projects, a chevy 350 in a datsun 280zx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 The WJ booster is the best booster/master swap and is readily available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Oz Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Made some great progress that past two weeks. Picked up a webber 32/36 carb and after tracking down a adapter plate, its mounted. After some adjustments, she runs soo much better. Then I had my son replace both of the exhaust donuts. He took it for a drive and then had the Comanche die. Thought it was the starter, loud "clicking" coming front it, so he got a new one and replaced. Ended up being the alt. not charging the battery. Charged the batt and replaced the old alt with one I took out of my 83 Cherokee, works great. Need to look into getting a electric fuel pump for the webber. Reason is because if the jeep sits for a little more than a day or two, its harder to start. Son put on a see through fuel filter and it looks like there no fuel in the filter so the jeep just cranks and cranks. Then today was a good day. Picked up two doors from a 99 Cherokee with power mirrors, windows and door locks. Also grabbed the strikers since they will need to be changed. We got a 96 WJ booster, master cylinder, and porp valve. Then we got lucky, found a 86 Cherokee with the same engine, 2.8L V6 but this one had the gauge cluster will all the gauges, not just the idiot lights. Picked it all up for $140.00 Score!! Doors will be on the back burner for a little bit but we will follow the JP mag write up. He, my son, wants to replace on of the front calipers and we need to do the rear brake shoes and brake cylinders so since we will be doing the booster upgrade, we'll bleed everything all at once. I need to figure out the gauge cluster, I need to track down a wiring diagram for both Jeeps and need to find the correct sensors and see what to connect to for the tach. thanks for any help guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 The new gauge cluster will plug right in and work as it should if the cluster is functioning properly. Make a build thread and post pics and show us the FSJ too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 The new gauge cluster will plug right in and work as it should if the cluster is functioning properly. Make a build thread and post pics and show us the FSJ too! The tachometer will work, but the temperature and oil pressure gauges won't. The idiot light senders for those are simple ON/OFF switches. You need to change the sensors to the ones for gauges, which aren't switches but variable resistance senders. No wiring is needed, just swap the sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Oz Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 If we don't have a tach now, how will that work? The gage cluster the MJ now only has a large fuel gage and a speedo. Dummy lights for the oil, temp, battey. I understand I need to get the other oil and temp sensor but how about the voltage tach and fuel gauge? They will work without any mods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 If we don't have a tach now, how will that work? The gage cluster the MJ now only has a large fuel gage and a speedo. Dummy lights for the oil, temp, battey. I understand I need to get the other oil and temp sensor but how about the voltage tach and fuel gauge? They will work without any mods? The wiring is already in place for the tach to work. The fuel gauge and voltmeter should also work with no changes necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Oz Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 SWEET!!!!!!! We'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 The new gauge cluster will plug right in and work as it should if the cluster is functioning properly. Make a build thread and post pics and show us the FSJ too! The tachomoeter will work, but the temperature and oil pressure gauges won't. The idiot light senders for those are simple ON/OFF switches. You need to change the sensors to the ones for gauges, which aren't switches but variable resistance senders. No wiring is needed, just swap the sensors. Yeah, forgot about that, sorry. Guess that's what posting at 11pm gets you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now