Dangileri Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Hey guys and gals! So I'm looking into buying a manual (preferably something with od) 4x4 that will get decent gas mileage, as i probably won't engage 4wd 300 days of the year. So naturally, i started looking into Comanches and other smaller trucks. I found a clean 1986 Comanche long bed, 2.8l 5 speed 4x4 on the local craigslist. I was just wondering if anyone could tell me what type of mileage to expect out of this truck, and what you think a fair asking price is for one? The guy has it posted at 3500, its got 109xxx miles. Thanks for any and all help- Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 I would not pay $3500 for a 2.8........never. SUPER clean 86 with a 2.5........maybe.....yeah.......... If you found a clean 86 with a blown 2.8 for say....$900 and then planned on a 3.4 re-power........you would then have about $2500 invested in a clean $3000 truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Thanks, the guy says the motor is in great shape, ill need to test drive it but ill try negotating down to 2500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_loco Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 The 2.8 could always be swapped out ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 The 2.8 is NEVER in great shape. Even new... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 For now i just need it to get me up to school- ill be living on campus but its a 300 mile drive thats why I'm looking to sell my current truck-93 silverado- and get something a little cooler and better on gas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Are 2.8s reliable though? Again i just need it for the occasional around town run and the. A few times a year for 300 mile roadtrips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_loco Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 I'd be weary on the long hauls. It's not that the v6 is so horrid but fuel WILL be not efficient the hp is roughly the same as an i4 and when they go they will leave you stranded. Also on a 29 year old truck unless it was babied or rebuilt I'd be prepping to swap in anything else. But that's the easy part. It's finding a solid chassis that's painful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Every 2.8 I've heard has had bottom end knock. Just sayin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Lil_loco how bad will fuel be? Id imagine at 60 in 5th with a stock height/tires it should be close to 20ish, and i deal with a 30 year old small block chevy currently, very reliable but i hesitate on the long trips still as it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 And any advice for bottom end knocks? How to diagnose/what it could be? I realize if i hear a knocking, its never a good sign Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 The responses have one point in common - don't buy a V-6. Especially for $3500 or even $2500. IF the body is rust-free and straight, drive train is good, maybe $1000 to $1500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 so the underside has the usual rust spots, mainly suspension but the driverside floorboard has holes. nothing I can't fix, especially with a little lift kit, and ill clean things up as I am doing it. It needs small things, like the plastic piece on the pillar by the door. the tailgate support, one side is perfect, other side looks like it went a few rounds with Mr. Tyson. and the paint job is $#!&, it was redone last year and it looks good from 200ft away. I think if I get the bed line-x ill look into doing something on the body, maybe the roller stuff. tires are dry-rotted, so a lift a tires would be necessity. the seat is ripped and the headliner is $#!&, but besides that it looks to be just a good little honest truck. I think ill try to talk the guy down to about 1,000, if that. I would feel comfortable, after fixing all the little things and lifting it, being in the truck around 3,000. but then, if i go with a 3 in lift and 31s, how bad do you guys think ill need to regear? would it be doable, or could/should i lift it and put stock size tires on it? anyone do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 so the underside has the usual rust spots, mainly suspension but the driverside floorboard has holes. nothing I can't fix, especially with a little lift kit, and ill clean things up as I am doing it. It needs small things, like the plastic piece on the pillar by the door. the tailgate support, one side is perfect, other side looks like it went a few rounds with Mr. Tyson. and the paint job is $#!&, it was redone last year and it looks good from 200ft away. I think if I get the bed line-x ill look into doing something on the body, maybe the roller stuff. tires are dry-rotted, so a lift a tires would be necessity. the seat is ripped and the headliner is $#!&, but besides that it looks to be just a good little honest truck. I think ill try to talk the guy down to about 1,000, if that. I would feel comfortable, after fixing all the little things and lifting it, being in the truck around 3,000. but then, if i go with a 3 in lift and 31s, how bad do you guys think ill need to regear? would it be doable, or could/should i lift it and put stock size tires on it? anyone do this? Just reading this post......... You will be in this truck for $5K to $6K..........EASY! For a truck you won't be able to give away. Trying to help you out........ I'd keep looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 I paid $2500 for mine. Was 2W, now 4W.....but was rust free and never hit. It's the little things that cost and it will add up REAL fast. I'm about to install a new rear axle, paid $100 for it but will have $300 in paint, disc brake conversion, all new brake lines, bolts, oil, seals, gaskets,..... etc......not to mention a pair of spacers. I replaced my trans a couple of weeks ago......new clutch.......paint......cleaning supplies.......all new seals........rear main seal........bolts..........etc......etc....... $300 there, $500 here........before you know it..........$6K and beyond. Wheels....tires.......brakes.......seals......gaskets.......power steering pumps......shocks..............and it NEVER ends............ Start with a solid truck and go from there. What you are looking at......ain't solid, in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 For the problems you describe that truck is not worth anywhere near $3500. If I was asking 3500 theres no way I would accept any less than 3000 for anything I would sell. I say move on and find a better truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_loco Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 It's more that the i4 gets you the same power for less wallet when it comes to gas. Never turn the nose up at the i4 :) Sounds like a wreck. I picked up my MJ with a 20,000km professional rebuilt with tags motor/trans and three itty bitty rust spots for $1200. They are out there and like already said it's about finding a solid truck more than anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Thanks for all the help guys! I am trying to avoid fuel injection, I'm dealing with 20 year old computers that are poorly mashed up now, id rather start with a carbed truck and add a new efi unit. that, the manual trans w od, and 4x4 is what attracted me to this truck. I don't feel like having to do any big conversions like 2wd to 4wd as my dad will never allow it, he'd rather I start with a 4x4. yea its a pile, and ive been looking at others. but sadly its the best one around haha theres a few rollers that look like they spent the last 20 years in the bottom of a mud bog, and probably have. I have to keep looking for a clean one I guess1 thanks for all the help I really do appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 okay guys, a fellow my dad knows has a neighbor selling a 86 2.5l, little less rust but still was actually used as a 4x4 so its got the typical areas. hes got 2,000 written on the window. any opinons? (my dads friend is the type thast ive been trying to ignore his suggestions but i might need to listen to him on this) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Must be a Jeep thing. I've owned 3 S10's and i Jimmy with the 2.8 They all had over 150K on them. Never had a bit of trouble with any of them. Had i MJ with a 2.8. 90K when I bought it. Didn't put 5,000 on it when I blew the engine. Let me rephrase that. When the engine busted. I swapped the 2.8 out with one from a '85 S10.Just waiting until I get it back together and running. Curious to see what it will do. :hmm: And for what it's worth, every MJ and XJ I have with the 2.5 would run circles around them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_loco Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 2k on the window is worth looking at. Again it's a matter of what the body/sub-frame etc is like. The joy of these trucks (/sarcasm). Then knock it down in price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Good to know the 2.5 is a better block, thats why i love forums. I'm really interested to see this one http://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/4520430107.html the guy said it is pretty good mechanically, its just an hour and a half drive so i want to make sure its worth it. He said it was his fixer uppper for years. I'm ready to own a jeep, just got to find a good one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_loco Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Save the headaches for after you get addicted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dangileri Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 I'm addicted and i don't even own one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 The computers in these are almost as bulletproof as the engines (2.5-4.0). I wouldnt worry about that part. Youll have problems with wiring and connectors no matter if its carbed or injected. Oh, and the 2.5 is throttle body injected. Its a fairly simple system. I wouldnt worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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