Rear Pinion Seal

[91Pioneer]

How about using a Speedi-sleeve or Redi-sleeve? Anyone used one of those on the yoke before?

[HOrnbrod]

It should. It references the correct Jeep p/n.

[91Pioneer]

OK thx.

[Jeep Driver]

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Pinion-Speedi-Sleeve-Rear-Axle/_/R-NOS99262_0383864528

 

 

You'll need to look up a sleeve that fits your pinion.

 

 

These folks may have something too.

http://www.silver-seal.com/category/shop.engine_parts.repair_sleeves/

[91Pioneer]

Well after pricing out the speedy sleeves in general I just ordered the Omix-Ada 16580.20 from Amazon, the price difference is minimal. I figured I'd buy it from there since I can return it fairly easily if it's the wrong part. Local auto parts stores do not carry any Omix-Ada parts, and their prices are usually 50%+ more than Amazon's price.

[91Pioneer]

FYI for anyone searching in the future. The Omix-Ada 16580.20 pinion yoke that says it only fits Wranglers fit my truck perfectly. They should really update their "fitment" listing to include XJ & MJ.

 

Also, pics!

 

Before:

 

 

After:

 

[AMCJeepMJ]

In reference to the below part #5,

 

These photos are copied from a document from Dana.  It shows the crush sleeve is used from 1985 1/2 to 1998 1/2 D35's.  #5 in the exploded diagram is the crush sleeve/collar.  I am assuming this is in fact accurate.  I have not seen a D35 that did not have a crush collar/sleeve.  I also admit I haven't seen every D35 there is either.  The bill of material number is stamped on the axle tube so you can verify what year it actually is.  I hope this info is useful. 

 

 

 

 

 

Is it necessary to replace the crush spacer #5 when replacing the seal if the pinion nut is returned to the original position plus a little bit after a new pinion seal #7 is put in?

[wvzj]

No it is not necessary to replace the crush sleeve. Just make sure you use a new pinion nut.

[HOrnbrod]

Agree. Have replaced a couple of pinion seals and reused the crush sleeve. Also reused the pinion nut.

[AMCJeepMJ]

Thank you. :thumbsup:

[al3x_tayl0r]

Sorry to drag up an old thread but I figured it's better than starting a new one, but I have a few questions hopefully I can get some insight on. 

 

Well I was going to change all my fluids and opened the rear diff. plug on my 1987 Dana 35 and had to reach halfway to the bottom of the diff to touch fluid and what fluid was in there was muck, black and thick, real thick, literally like mud, the tech that was there saw it and said he wouldn't recommend changing it, just topping it off and letting it all circulate and then maybe changing it in a few weeks, so i topped it off and put the plug back in and did the rest of the fluids, and i drove around that night parked all night and I'm at work now and there's a puddle underneath the rear diff and its coming from the pinion seal. 

 

I knew the rear diff seal was bad when I got it because it had some grime running down from there but nothing was wet until I added the fluid, now its just leaking like crazy, the diff is still good and doesn't whine or make any noise

 

I'm looking into buying a new yoke because I'm sure its going to be scored, and seal and nut and everything but, is it worth doing if the diff fluid was like muck? is it just going to explode in a month or am I good with just changing it out and maybe using a thickening additive or something? 

 

and question two.. do I need a new crush sleeve if I am replacing the yoke?

 

the kit I'm looking at HERE does not include a crush bearing as well as other kits, which I would think they would if it were needed but mechanically it seems to me like a new one would be needed

 

I am no professional though so that's why I'm asking! any help would be appreciated!

[HOrnbrod]

I've done a few of these on both D35 and D44 axles, and every time I had to replace the pinion yoke because of scoring. Since I had to replace them I always used the u-bolt yoke because they are inherently stronger. The D44's have no crush sleeve to worry about, so when buttoning it down (using a new nut) you just re-torque to specs. The D35's do have crush sleeves, but I never used a new one when changing the pinion seal. When taking the nut off you can count the threads (turns) then snug it up to the same point as the old one + a little bit more. None of them ever leaked. Maybe I was lucky, but that's how I did it.

 

I'd run your rig around until the sludge inside gets warm and toasty, then pull the cover and let it drain all night. The next day mop it up as best you can, button it up and fill to the plug hole bottom with some cheap 75w90 gear oil and drive it around for awhile. Don't forget the limited slip additive if your axle requires it. After 200 miles or so, change the diff fluid out again with the quality brand of your choice.

 

Also, make sure your axle vent tube is clear and venting as it should be, or gear oil will be leaking past the pinion seal again shortly.