onlyinajeep726 Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 Those don't look like blocks... just the spring perches. Though they do look a little thick from the picture. Pictures add 10 lbs, right? :yes: But as advised, fix the angle of your rear diff for starters. The front looks off too, as mentioned. Also, something I didn't see mentioned was your harsh steering geometry. With the stock inverted y-steering and 4.5"+ of lift, those angles are considerably more stressful on everything. If you wish to keep the stock steering, I'd advice a drop pit man arm as a must.
HOrnbrod Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 Those are not regulation D44 perches mate. It looks like whomever welded them on the axle tubes screwed up causing the axle pinion to point up towards the t-case, thus ruining the pinion angle. You would need probably a 20*-25* shim to rotate the axle back down to. Nobody makes those AFAIK - 8* is about max. Shims are only used for fine adjustment. I think the best way is to cut them off and re-weld new perches.
Incommando Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 Those are not regulation D44 perches mate. It looks like whomever welded them on the axle tubes screwed up causing the axle pinion to point up towards the t-case, thus ruining the pinion angle. You would need probably a 20*-25* shim to rotate the axle back down to. Nobody makes those AFAIK - 8* is about max. Shims are only used for fine adjustment. I think the best way is to cut them off and re-weld new perches. Time to cut off the perches and start over... On the plus side new perches are cheap if you need them
Cmbechtold Posted May 14, 2014 Author Posted May 14, 2014 Just talked to rusty he said the 6 degree shims he gave me should fix it
HOrnbrod Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 Here's your setup now: This is how it should be set up: Does it look like a six degree wedge will rotate the pinion down that much?
Cmbechtold Posted May 14, 2014 Author Posted May 14, 2014 No probably not so what are my options before I change my perches?
Cmbechtold Posted May 14, 2014 Author Posted May 14, 2014 I guess what I'm asking is what could I try to do so I don't have to change perches
HOrnbrod Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 Either a SYE or a new CV drive shaft should work (more $$). Getting new perches welded on the tubes correctly will work (less $$).
Pete M Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 if it's a wobble (rather than a vibration), it's likely your alignment. I would get that fixed first before attacking the rear. as to the rear angles, you might be able to get away with just new joints an the 6* wedges. it's not ideal, but might be close enough. but as I said, get the front aligned first or else it might interfere with the diagnosis.
HOrnbrod Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 Slight Wobble After Lift "Slight" is a subjective word. With the rear drive shaft geometry as posted in your pics, wobble and/or vibration has to be a bit more than slight. But post up the alignment results if it helped any.
Cmbechtold Posted May 15, 2014 Author Posted May 15, 2014 Alignment fixed vibration but I'm still gonna put shims in to try and bring that axle back to where it should be
Incommando Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 Alignment fixed vibration but I'm still gonna put shims in to try and bring that axle back to where it should be Good deal!
Pete M Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 make sure you use steel shims. or the highest quality aluminum. cheapie aluminums get a bad wrap for cracking and getting spit out.
airspeed Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 "U" Joints are designed to work at an angle. There is a lot of geometry and engineering in drive shaft operation.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now