cruiser54 Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 Okay so i took the cap off and the rotor has a little play in it. Like i can kinda turn it back and forth a little. Is that bad? Also, sure after cutting the locating tab off you can turn the distributor but the cap and rotor and distributor are all bolted together so they all turn equally. No. Rotor stays still as it's engaged into the oil pump gear via the shaft. The housing and cap rotate together as a unit to get the proper spec on rotor to cap terminal placement.
cruiser54 Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 Okay so i took the cap off and the rotor has a little play in it. Like i can kinda turn it back and forth a little. Is that bad? Also, sure after cutting the locating tab off you can turn the distributor but the cap and rotor and distributor are all bolted together so they all turn equally. What's "a little"? Just a bit of looseness? Kinda like rattling back and forth?
1989 Eliminator Posted May 23, 2014 Author Posted May 23, 2014 If the distributor is bolted down, i can go back and forth about 3/8"? Something like that. A few degrees needless to say. Its not just a little in my opinion. So would this mean the distributor teeth are wore?
cruiser54 Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 If the distributor is bolted down, i can go back and forth about 3/8"? Something like that. A few degrees needless to say. Its not just a little in my opinion. So would this mean the distributor teeth are wore? Maybe. But remember the dizzy is driven off the oil pump gear, not the other way around. So, is the rotor loose on the shaft, or is the shaft loose in the oil pump? Remove the rotor and see which it is. While you're going to all this trouble, why not check the indexing?
oldseddie Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 My new OEM ballancer had a dimple at TDC. As the rotor approached post #1 on the disttibuter cap, the dimple was lining up with the 0 deg. mark on the front cover. I did have to dick around with the oil pump drive position to get the distributer to seat all the way but cruisers advice to set it at 11 oclock was spot on.
1989 Eliminator Posted May 23, 2014 Author Posted May 23, 2014 I mean i took the distributor all the way out, set the oil pump at 11 oclock and put the dizzy back in. And it looks like it lines up. The shaft itself is loose because that metal piece that the rotor sits in also moves. I just don't have the cut out cap yet
1989 Eliminator Posted June 24, 2014 Author Posted June 24, 2014 I know sorry for the delay folks. I just got back from school. So my distributor was a few degrees off as shown. I then did everything per cruisers instructions and the distributor now look like this. Just past post #1. ... It may be the camera angle but it is just past the post. But... I still have a rough idle. The truck will idle fine just after start up for a minute or two. Then the rpms drop and the truck "catches" itself so it doesnt stale. When i have my a/c on the truck idles very low.
cruiser54 Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Good job on the indexing. Have you ever replaced your oxygen sensor?
MJCARENA Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Post #8 says he changed the o2 sensor. When you changed the TPS did you adjust it also. My 89 XJ did this problem a couple of times. One was a bad TPS, changed it out and was good for around 2 years. Started doing it again and this time I just had to unplug the IAC and replug it in. I assume you cleaned the throttle body where the IAC goes.
cruiser54 Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Post #8 says he changed the o2 sensor. When you changed the TPS did you adjust it also. My 89 XJ did this problem a couple of times. One was a bad TPS, changed it out and was good for around 2 years. Started doing it again and this time I just had to unplug the IAC and replug it in. I assume you cleaned the throttle body where the IAC goes. Wonder what brand. also, if the O2 sensor heater relay is inop, the sensor will never heat up enough to work....
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 I do need to check if the heater is working on my new o2. Ill try and figure out which relay and wire to test for that. My tps is only 3 months old and adjusted. It was a autozone tps.... And yes throttle body is all clean
cruiser54 Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 VatoZone TPS is iffy. O2 sensor relay is the one closest to the radiator.
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 I do need to check if the heater is working on my new o2. Ill try and figure out which relay and wire to test for that. My tps is only 3 months old and adjusted. It was a autozone tps.... And yes throttle body is all clean
cruiser54 Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 I do need to check if the heater is working on my new o2. Ill try and figure out which relay and wire to test for that. My tps is only 3 months old and adjusted. It was a autozone tps.... And yes throttle body is all clean Is there an echo in here? LOL.
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 Lol well I shouldve said that was a GOOD IDEA to check the heater for the o2. I didnt think of that.
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 Okay so i checked the voltage at the relay for the supply voltage, and that the terminal that goes to the o2 has 12 volts. Also checked at the o2 connector
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 Okay so i checked the voltage at the relay for the supply voltage, and that the terminal that goes to the o2 has 12 volts. Also checked at the o2 connector
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 NEW DISCOVERY... So awhile ago I soldered the five brown/white stripe wires together in the wire harness by the firewall. So i reopened the tape and insulation and the MAP sensor ground was loose! So i temporarily put the MAP ground behind the firewall screw ( where the braided wire is) and then put a small jumper wire from my solder job straight to the battery. Started it up and it sounds louder and healthier. But again... The rpms are still low
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 NEW DISCOVERY... So awhile ago I soldered the five brown/white stripe wires together in the wire harness by the firewall. So i reopened the tape and insulation and the MAP sensor ground was loose! So i temporarily put the MAP ground behind the firewall screw ( where the braided wire is) and then put a small jumper wire from my solder job straight to the battery. Started it up and it sounds louder and healthier. But again... The rpms are still low
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 So i made separate ground wires for the MAP, IAC, ignition solenoid/ voltage regulator. Still no luck.
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 So i made separate ground wires for the MAP, IAC, ignition solenoid/ voltage regulator. Still no luck.
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 Okay so now i had the truck running and probed the o2 sensor wires and the voltage was varying from ~0.8V to ~4.5V. Good or bad? When i first start the truck though the rpms are okay and the o2 output is steady around 2V then slowly drops below 1V then starts to jump around in voltage.
onlyinajeep726 Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 What's with you and double posts today? Hahaha. I hope you can figure this out because my XJ does something similar to this. It's only after it's been running for a long time that it idles smooth with little variation.
1989 Eliminator Posted June 25, 2014 Author Posted June 25, 2014 I'm on my phone on the tappatalk app. Idk its messing up lol. I know hopefully i can get some more feedback
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