toid Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 got a 1990 4.0 fuel pressure sending unit leaking at electrical connection. guessing I need a new one. I'm having more than a little trouble locating one that doesn't require me selling a kidney. Is a Cherokee unit compatible? Crossover unit? Some of you experts out there have the knowledge I seek. I'll bring 2 goats and a chicken for wisdom. thanks, Rev. Toid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobolink Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 FUEL pressure sending unit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Ahhh got type-twisted (related to tongue twisted). fuel PUMP sending unit. the o-ring & lock-ring combo on the electrical connection pass-through is leaking. no luck tightening it and would rather replace it than try to "glue" it... unless there's a fool-proof method (and I have proven to be a very capable fool) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Yeah I think he means the fuel sending unit . They are Comanche only . You can fit a Cherokee one in there but the gauge will be off that's if it doesn't hit the baffles in the tank . The Cherokee and Comanche sending units are mirror images of eachother . Don't be fooled when youre searching for one and it says fits Cherokee and Comanche . I believe the spectra cherokee sending unit number is sp7072 h Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 I've gotta have one. Or a fool-proof way to fix mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 You can have the rusted one you have rebuilt but it's gonna be upward of 200 bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 You probably just need a new o-ring under the locking ring, p/n 53000575. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-tank-o-ring-53000575.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 not rusted... the plastic piece that passes through the plate (the electrical connector) that is sealed with an o-ring and held tight by a sort of "snap ring" device. (I don't know what you call them) this one leaks, I'm surmising that the ring-clip is not holding the o-ring tightly enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 I put a new o-ring on and a new clip that my mechanic (a fellow pastor) found for me. No dice. he suggested some kind of sealant (as silicone) applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Leaking here at the electrical connector? Have never heard of that unless it was rusted out. To repair that I'd use some WaterWeld (Made by JBWeld) on both sides to seal it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Hornbrod , will that stand up to gas ? Would the gas tank repair by permatex work better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 that is exactly the spot. The mechanic and I disassembled it, found an almost remarkable LACK of rust nor other signs of age in the area. It did not leak prior to the Fuel pump replacement, but the connector was loose upon reassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 I have never found a product that worked in fuel tanks, but I have heard of others who have... always in hushed whispers and suspect to doubt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I've used WaterWeld on motorcycle gas tank repairs on the inside and they have never leaked again. It's made for submerged applications in any fuel. http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-waterweld/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Well it looks like I will give the WaterWeld a try. Any suggestions on how to use it? The bead on top and the "glop" underneath - method? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Just make sure the surface is clean and dry, and pack it all around the connector underside. I would not even do the outside unless it still leaked. When you open your gas tank cap, do you hear pressure escaping? Just want to be sure the tank is venting okay through the top vents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 this leaking debacle only developed in the last few hours of the afternoon, so I don't know about the venting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Before the pump was replaced I did not hear any "hiss" of air when I took the cap off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 http://comancheclub.com/topic/38404-gas-leak-at-sender-unit/?fromsearch=1 Look at this thread and the last link at the bottom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 You are THE MAN '88! (though not to minimize the assistance of the others) Fo Shizzle... We essentially did the same thing in that post except using a hammer to gently but firmly tap the push nut on instead of using the C clamp... Ahhh the C clamp!!! I didn't think about that. I was CRYING when all that "Arab college fund" was pouring out all over the pavement... but I will try yet another fresh "push nut" and the clamp this time before I jump to the 2K sealant route. If that doesn't hold it, I will go to the WaterWeld and pray. Thanks!!! Bay the Peace of the Lord be all up on y'all like a fat baby on a pork chop sammich! Rev. Toid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Good possible fix. Was not aware of the push nut (or more likely forgotten about it). Thanks for posting that up 88whitemanche. Hope it works for you Rev. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Yeah, brother... me too. This little fix-er-up-er is beginning to take a lot more fixing and "up" is looking farther away. this is why I LOVE these forums. the wealth of knowledge and honest "brotherly" (if I may use the word) fellowship is beyond assignation of value. WHO ELSE is really willing to help others like folks here are? Not much anymore. No sermons, though... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Funny how those old posts come back....I had forgotten all about that sender repair thread! I'm glad it solved your problem, but if it did not I have some refurbished senders available for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toid Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 I forgot to update this thread... How it worked out: I wish I'd taken pictures. The plastic "post" through which the wires pass through the metal plate of the sending unit was kind of torn up where the old "push nut" had previously dug into it to hold the O-ring on the outside tight. The new push nut wasn't grabbing adequately because of the chewed up plastic... failing to hold the O-ring tightly thus the leak. Simple solution. new O ring, a tiny sheen of vaseline to make sure it's supple and seated well, then put 2 washers that were kind of snug on the plastic post then the push ring. This provided a "spacer" effect & allowed the push nut to bite into un-chewed part of the post. A c-clamp and a socket slightly larger than the post compressed it tightly. No leak. Thanks Guys. Bless y'all. Rev. Toid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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