GirsMJ86 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 That routing honestly makes no sense to me. With that you'd have this big empty bottle between the inlet hose and your heater core. I think you need to take a look at what I posted above since it's completely different, or there are plenty of other topics already on this subject to look at for more clarification. The only hose that should be going to your bottle would be the overflow hose from the nozzle at the filler neck. There is no bottom hose on an open system overflow bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 to help visualize if i were to take all this cluster out and by new hoses could i run the *to t-stat* hose directly into the *upper hose* on the jug, connect *lower hose* into the core. then back to w-pump. so there would be no Tee's Thats ecactly what I was trying to say earlier This is what i meant i have the closed system, so with deleting the valve and running threw my bottle what would be the proper filling technique Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Fill the rad, fill the overflow bottle ... bleed the head and the rest will sort itself out over the next week. The recovery bottle draws (molded line on side of the stock bottle) from the bottom amd fills from the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 sorry if i sound stupid, but how do you bleed the head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Pull the coolant temp sender at the back of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 to help visualize if i were to take all this cluster out and by new hoses could i run the *to t-stat* hose directly into the *upper hose* on the jug, connect *lower hose* into the core. then back to w-pump. so there would be no Tee's Thats ecactly what I was trying to say earlier This is what i meant i have the closed system, so with deleting the valve and running threw my bottle what would be the proper filling technique Ah, you're actually wanting to keep the closed system. I was linking to easily swapping to open without the need for a new rad. Carry on. With the closed bottle, all you have to do is fill the bottle. There isn't a way to fill the rad separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 okay so after i start and let in run for a sec. or right after i fill the system. and what am I'm looking for to know that it has been bled properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Pull the coolant temp sender at the back of it. i take the upper rad hose off the the t-stat housing and pour it in that way. so do i let my truck idle and keep filling the bottle till it stops taking coolant, how does pulling the CTS bleed the air out of the head? anyone got step by step instructions on how to do this. not sure on the exact steps to take. (like do i fill the bottle, run the truck, check coolant level and pull coolant temp sensor). this is what I'm unsure of. :dunno: I'm searching around and not a whole lot is for the closed system, many for the open though, doesnt help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 With the closed system ... pull the CTS ... fill bottle until coolant comes out CTS port. Replace CTS ... continue to fill bottle. Continue to top off bottle over the next few days (as air burps in the system) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 ok cool sounds easy enough, like i said been looking around, do i need to jack the rear end of my truck up so the nose is down? and the bottle is always full? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 So I've finally got the truck running again, but something seems amiss. The two lines coming off the heater core (big and small) are run differently; the smaller straight to the thermostat housing, and the bigger over to the intake port. While the truck's running, there seems to be a whine of sorts that wwasn't there prior to me installing the new core. There are no leaks or any other difference in how it's running (still trying to button the truck up inside the cab) do I correctly have these hoses run to where they should be? Do I need to switch them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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