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Fuel Rail Leak?


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My '87 4.0 has developed a drip from the round thing at the front of the fuel rail. It's the thing that has a vacuum(?) fitting on the side closest to the valve cover.

 

From my first look, it appears that part is a part of the fuel rail. Is it serviceable on its own? Is a leak here common?

 

Can someone tell me what all needs to be replaced? Any adjacent parts that are wise to replace at the same time?

 

Thanks!

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That's the fuel pressure regulator, you need a new oring and maybe a spacer. I've only ever gotten them from a replacement part from advance, someone else may have a better source for just the oring.

 

Thanks for the quick reply.  Are any special tools needed?  I see how the fuel line snaps into the inlet.  How does it attach to the rail?  Can those be replaced without removing the rail from the intake and injectors? 

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Hopefully the fuel pressure regulator is OK, not ruptured inside.  If so, this is what you need:

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/crown-oe-replacement-fueloil-cooler-line-repair-kit/p3049536.jcwx

 

The part pictured includes the hardware and packaging...most of the white part is packaging.  You can make your own with a little legwork for considerably cheaper. 

 

The seal consists of a plastic clip, 2 O-rings and a spacer.  If you disconnect the clip (squeeze the ears together and pull (you may have to remove the small bolt on the vacuum harness clip to pull the fuel line all the way out.  Either on the line or IN the quik-disco, there is the 2 O-rings and spacer.  SAVE the spacer, take the O-rings to the parts store or hardware store and get 2 new O-rings.  Viton or Buna-N works for fuel. About 15 cents a pop. 

 

The plastic clips are available at the HELP section of the parts store. $3.99 for 6.  If you're careful you can probably re-use the old clips.  5/16" Ford or Chrysler fuel line connectors.  So, that's $3.99 and $1 for O-rings (you bought 6, just in case) = $4.99,  You now have enough for the other fuel connector too!. 

 

Re-assemble by sliding an o-ring onto the fuel line, then the spacer, then the other o-ring.  Then push it back into the FPR, until it clicks.  Replace bolt on vac harness clip/tower. 

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I appreciate the detailed reply.  I tested the regulator tonight, and it's good!  31 or so psi with vacuum and 40 psi without vacuum! 

 

I'll tackle this Friday night or Saturday.  If anyone in the meantime knows the exact size of the o-rings, I'll get them ahead of the disassemly.   

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  • 9 months later...
Fuel disconnects

 

Quick disconnect part numbers

 

So far the Napa part numbers for just orings is:

 

Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual orings $1.56 each

Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual orings $1.35 each

Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16? $15.93 each

 

 

Mopar repair kits:

 

83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 $6.99 Morris

83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8 $8.99 Morris
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  • 2 years later...

 

Hopefully the fuel pressure regulator is OK, not ruptured inside.  If so, this is what you need:

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/crown-oe-replacement-fueloil-cooler-line-repair-kit/p3049536.jcwx

 

The part pictured includes the hardware and packaging...most of the white part is packaging.  You can make your own with a little legwork for considerably cheaper. 

 

The seal consists of a plastic clip, 2 O-rings and a spacer.  If you disconnect the clip (squeeze the ears together and pull (you may have to remove the small bolt on the vacuum harness clip to pull the fuel line all the way out.  Either on the line or IN the quik-disco, there is the 2 O-rings and spacer.  SAVE the spacer, take the O-rings to the parts store or hardware store and get 2 new O-rings.  Viton or Buna-N works for fuel. About 15 cents a pop. 

 

The plastic clips are available at the HELP section of the parts store. $3.99 for 6.  If you're careful you can probably re-use the old clips.  5/16" Ford or Chrysler fuel line connectors.  So, that's $3.99 and $1 for O-rings (you bought 6, just in case) = $4.99,  You now have enough for the other fuel connector too!. 

 

Re-assemble by sliding an o-ring onto the fuel line, then the spacer, then the other o-ring.  Then push it back into the FPR, until it clicks.  Replace bolt on vac harness clip/tower. 

 

 

Having the same problem so will hijack this thread instead of creating a new one. :)

 

What clips are you referring to? I am unable to purchase the repair kit here (in Sweden), so it seems like I gotta go the DIY route. O-rings are not a problem but I have no idea what clips I should be looking for.

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https://www.autopartsway.com/part.cfm?83502745/c1y&g=1&gclid=eaiaiqobchmiul7n1j2v1qivwkwnch0gtacweaqyayabegjqppd-bwe

 

 

Here's a picture of the part(s).  The beige color "clip" slides over the fuel line until it clicks over the shoulder on the line. Then one o-ring slides on the line, then the spacer, then the other o-ring, then the whole assembly slides into the female end. The white part of the pictured part, is just packaging.  There are two O-rings and a like size hard plastic spacer.  You need the O-rings AND the spacer to properly compress the seal with the disconnect system.  I only use the term "clip" for lack of a better word.  It "clips" on, and when you successfully attach it, it "clicks" in. so it's really a clicking clip.  :thumbsup:

 

You'll also want to look inside the female end of the fuel line to make sure there aren't any old o-rings or spacer up in there before you try to put it together. 

 

If all you have is the naked fuel line with no plastic piece (aka clip), you'll need to source that or a similar "clip".  But I've tried that with minimal success, so I just had to bite the bullet and buy the correct part.  I've never seen the whole part sold in any auto parts store, and the clerks look at me like I'm nuts when I've asked for them.  So online is the way to go.

 

Alternately, you could DIY it by replacing/eliminating  the whole disconnect system and just use tubing and compression fittings. 

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The stock fittings can be replaced with standard GM fuel fittings, 3/8" inlet and 5/16" return. These are still in use today on GM/Chevy vehicles ... They match the fuel rails perfectly for both Renix and HO rails.

 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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