a1awind Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 i was thinking that this might smoothout the idle a little. are there any upgrades that can be done at this time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Things that I did to kinda help idle. There is a idle control valve on the front (if you are standing at front on the truck) and I believe has two torx bolts. Take this out CAREFULLY! You do not want to scratch or damage the pin. After you have it out, clean the pin with carb cleaner and a rag. To get the whole pin, slowly pull it out but not too much. If you pull the pin out all the way you will not be able to put it back in. I wold also clean the inside of the body where the pin goes in. I also cleaned the throttle plate on the inside and got all the carbon off. I do not know how many miles you have on your truck but using some seafoam wouldnt hurt to clean out your throttle body and intake manifold. Upgrading the grounds is also a very good thing to do. It will help prevent future electrical problems. I know there is a throttle body spacer that Rusty Offroad makes. It basically is a spacer that lengthens the flow path and creates a turbulence in the air going into the intake manifold. Some say it helps a little... I havent done this myself. In my opinion, rebuilding the whole throttle body would be pointless. Cleaning the essential parts and areas would be best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butchershop Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Did the same for mine a couple months ago. 1) ground refresh - all locations 2) cleaned throttle body thoroughly 3) shined up the IC valve pin + a can of sea foam + cleaned the C101 connector+ new Rotella oil + lucas oil treatment+ tank of premium gas Made a world of difference in idle and running power to the 4-banger. Previously, the idle RPMs would cycle up and down. Now sitting steady and sounding good. Also, eliminated a valve(?) clatter at higher RPMs. Took a few drives for the ECU to learn is wasn't a new truck again. :shake: But, it feels just fine right now. Time to move on to the suspension issues :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 If I remember correctly when I cleaned my Idle Control Valve, when I re-installed it I put a VERY small amount of di-electric grease. Not a lot because it would clog both the air passage and control unit for the pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a1awind Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Did the same for mine a couple months ago. 1) ground refresh - all locations 2) cleaned throttle body thoroughly 3) shined up the IC valve pin + a can of sea foam + cleaned the C101 connector + new Rotella oil + lucal oil treatment + tank of premium gas Made a world of difference in idle and running power to the 4-banger. Previously, the idle RPMs would cycle up and down. Now sitting steady and sounding good. Also, eliminated a valve(?) clatter at higher RPMs. Took a few drives for the ECU to learn is wasn't a new truck again. :shake: But, it feels just fine right now. Time to move on to the suspension issues :wrench: asking for adequate power from a 2.5 is like trying to get blood from a stone i suppose... why rotella? my truck only has 112,000 on it and it doesnt smoke or tick. i love lucas. i already seafoamed it...well... in the tank anyhow. where is this dreaded "c101"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 I believe it is just the connecter that connects to the ICV (Idle Control Valve). And the seafoam process I was talking about was actully putting it in the intake manifold. Here is the process: Buy one can of the liquid seafoam not the spary can. The objective is to get seafom into your intake manifold and valves to loosen up all the carbon deposits. First, measure out about 9 ounces of seafoam in a container or whatever you like. Now, start your truck and let it warm up to normal operating temperature then shut off the truck. Take off either the brake booster vaccum line from booster, or take off the pcv line from the cam cover. ONE of these two lines are needed because they are vacuum lines and will suck the seafoam into your intake manifold. So, i recommend the brake booster hose. Make sure you take it off the booster side and keep the end on the intake manifold attached. Start the truck again (NOTE: the truck will idle high since there is a vacuum leak, the brake booster hose). Take a small funnel and place it in the brake booster hose. Now the key here is to slowly pour about 2/3 of the seafoam into the funnel. Your truck will sputter and the RPM will lower but that is OK. Do not let your truck stale though. After about 2/3 of the 9 ounces is gone, pour the rest of the 1/3 of seafoam into the funnel at once. This will probably make the struck stale which is okay. If it does not stale, shut the truck off quickly. Nothing will hurt it. You just want the seafoam to soak in the intake manifold and if you don't quickly then it will just get burnt up. After the truck stales or gets shut off, wait about 15-20 minutes for the seafoam to do its magic. Hook-up your vacuum line during this time. After that waiting, start your truck up and like it idle for 10-15 minutes. Your truck will smoke A LOT. White smoke. But that is normal. (Do this outside........)This will get rid of the loose carbon in the intake. But after the idle process, take your truck out on the road and drive it like you stole it. You want to get in the RPMs and let the seafoam get into every passage. Blue smoke will proably come out which means carbon is being burnt. Then your good to go! Also, seafoam deepcreep is a very good cleaner that gets all the small areas and works great for TB cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butchershop Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Rotella because of this discussion: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36262-preferred-oil-weight/ and this testimony: http://comancheclub.com/topic/24064-shell-rotella-t-15w40/ C101 is on the firewall near the brake booster. Info here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37363-c101-worries/ Follow Cruiser's tips at the bottom... Read through this 'most awesome' thread... http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ :bowdown: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butchershop Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 where is this dreaded "c101"? My C101 before pic. Awful, just nasty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a1awind Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 So what do you use? Contact.cleaner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 So what do you use? Contact.cleaner? Or brake cleaner. Click on the link in my signature to see 25 Mostly Renix Tips, with photos. C101 was only used through 1988 BTW. Ground refreshing is a must!!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a1awind Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 I cleaned the c101 (what a mess...it was still tar-like ) cleaned the throttle body, seafoamed the engine, and put new plugs in. BIG power difference. But once it's warmed up it still idles like it wants to stall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Spray around your intake manifold to head area and also around the vac hoses near the throttle body, at idle with carb cleaner, and see if you've got some vacuum leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a1awind Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 I already checked it with a propane torch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I wouldn't clean anything with that much plastic with brake cleaner. Ever. It likes to eat plastic. Dad tried cleaning his face shield with it once. Now it's useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I wouldn't clean anything with that much plastic with brake cleaner. Ever. It likes to eat plastic. Dad tried cleaning his face shield with it once. Now it's useless. It's a different kind of "plastic". Brake cleaner doesn't harm it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 Huh. Good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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