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New Comanche Owner Needs Help Identfying His Suspension.


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I picked up a comanche from a guy who knows nothing about it. He bought it as is and only put tires on it. Not sure if he went up to 32" or kept them the same at 32" but it has 32"s now. I'm completely new to the off road scene, I used to keep it to strictly drag racing and motorcycles. This is why I need help. What I do know is that it has an aftermarket suspension and a couple bushings are dry rotted, but I'm wondering if I should replace the suspension and lift it higher or keep the suspension at 3". My tires are rubbing but if the suspension is a good suspension then ill do a 1" body lift and SOA in back and then maybe just bigger coil springs in front to match. I took pictures but have no idea what I'm looking at. Also what kimd of axle is in the rear? A 35 or 44?

 

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You won't do a body lift, because the cab part of the MJ (Comanche) is unibody.

 

Where are the tires rubbing? Are you running factory Jeep rims or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what width, and what backspacing?

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 Where are you rubbing? Looks like you probably rub on the back corners of the front fenders.

 

 Looks like your coil spring isolating bushing on the top of the coils is about to fall apart. You can buy replacements that add a little lift. That may help you in the front. Looks like an add-a-leaf in the back. Can't see the shackle, but maybe a shackle lift as well.

 

 If it was me i'd buy Hell Creek lift springs for the rear to replace the add-a-leaf pack. On the front i'd add a coil spring spacer to give a little more lift. Then I would add some adjustable control arms to push the front axle forward and recenter it in the wheel well. Aside from that just replace any parts that look worn out.

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From what I can tell, he has an add-a-leaf in the rear. Front is stock upper control arms, stock track bar with a new hole drilled in the axle bracket to center the axle, some kind of aftermarket springs, some kind of extended sway bar links and looks like procomp lower control arms, but not sure. Those same arms may actually be sold under multiple names.

 

Most of it looks like cobbled together booty fab.

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Where are you rubbing? Looks like you probably rub on the back corners of the front fenders.

 

Looks like your coil spring isolating bushing on the top of the coils is about to fall apart. You can buy replacements that add a little lift. That may help you in the front. Looks like an add-a-leaf in the back. Can't see the shackle, but maybe a shackle lift as well.

 

If it was me i'd buy Hell Creek lift springs for the rear to replace the add-a-leaf pack. On the front i'd add a coil spring spacer to give a little more lift. Then I would add some adjustable control arms to push the front axle forward and recenter it in the wheel well. Aside from that just replace any parts that look worn out.

How much would this all cost and would it be off road capable? I'm worried to take it off road now because everything makes noise and looks like its falling apart. I'm rubbing inside the wheel well against the back wall and the front of the front fenders. Thats about it..

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 What kind of off road? Just simple trails or hard technical trails? Are you planning to go with bigger tires than 32s some day?

 

If you give us more details about what you plan to use the truck for we will be able to give more specific advice. Also your budget.

 

Check out this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/ Even if you don't go this route there is a lot of good info about what it takes to lift a Comanche in the thread.

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What kind of off road? Just simple trails or hard technical trails? Are you planning to go with bigger tires than 32s some day?

 

If you give us more details about what you plan to use the truck for we will be able to give more specific advice. Also your budget.

 

Check out this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/ Even if you don't go this route there is a lot of good info about what it takes to lift a Comanche in the thread.

I want to do complex trails but nothing like rock climbing. And the tires are pretty new so ill keep them for now but when I replace them I wouldn't mind going bigger. When I get more money to do the gears and axles though of course. My budget right now is like 500 but I might be able to go higher in a couple months. Like 1500. But the 1500 is reserved but I might be able to put it to the truck

 

Also, I have already taken a look at that thread and saved the recipe to my desktop. Is it a good solid lift? Or would it be worth the extra 400 to go with rough country's 6.5" lift for a thousand.

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 What kind of off road? Just simple trails or hard technical trails? Are you planning to go with bigger tires than 32s some day?

 

If you give us more details about what you plan to use the truck for we will be able to give more specific advice. Also your budget.

 

Check out this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/ Even if you don't go this route there is a lot of good info about what it takes to lift a Comanche in the thread.

I ended up going this route and ordered all of the parts except for a couple already. Gonna also use 1" coil spacers just to level it out. Anyone know anything else about this lift?

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 What kind of off road? Just simple trails or hard technical trails? Are you planning to go with bigger tires than 32s some day?

 

If you give us more details about what you plan to use the truck for we will be able to give more specific advice. Also your budget.

 

Check out this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/ Even if you don't go this route there is a lot of good info about what it takes to lift a Comanche in the thread.

I ended up going this route and ordered all of the parts except for a couple already. Gonna also use 1" coil spacers just to level it out. Anyone know anything else about this lift?

 

 

 I'm using a couple parts of the lift in the thread. But I had some leftover parts from other Jeep projects that I used for a lot of it.  I prefer to use adjustable control arms instead of the drop brackets. But they can be pricey unless you get lucky and find a deal. Definitely get an adjustable track bar.

 Since you already have a lift you can replace a little at a time and it will be less of a shock to your wallet. Be prepared to inspect and replace any defective bushings as you go. Looks like you have a couple that are in rough shape. That's probably what's causing most of your rough ride.

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Where would I get a bushing kit and how much would it be. I'm thinking about doing it all at once because its my daily driver other then my harley and I don't want my truck down for too long.

 

There is no bushing kit. There are various bushings on various parts. The advice was to replace them "as you need them." That means look them over, and replace what needs to be replaced.

 

The upper and lower control arms have bushings on each end. The LCA bushings are all in the arms, so if you plan to replace the lower arms, you'll be doing bushings then as part of the replacement. The upper control arms have bushings in the arm at the frame end, but the axle end bushings are mounted to the axle. Check those out, because those won't automatically be replaced if you go with aftermarket control arms.

 

And don't get so hung up on height. A properly set-up MJ does NOT need a lot of lift to be off-road capable -- they are off-road capable in stock configuration. Especially if this vehicle is your daily driver and only sees occasional off-road use, you should be looking for the optimum configuration using the LEAST possible lift and the SMALLEST possible tires.

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Where would I get a bushing kit and how much would it be. I'm thinking about doing it all at once because its my daily driver other then my harley and I don't want my truck down for too long.

 

There is no bushing kit. There are various bushings on various parts. The advice was to replace them "as you need them." That means look them over, and replace what needs to be replaced.

 

The upper and lower control arms have bushings on each end. The LCA bushings are all in the arms, so if you plan to replace the lower arms, you'll be doing bushings then as part of the replacement. The upper control arms have bushings in the arm at the frame end, but the axle end bushings are mounted to the axle. Check those out, because those won't automatically be replaced if you go with aftermarket control arms.

 

And don't get so hung up on height. A properly set-up MJ does NOT need a lot of lift to be off-road capable -- they are off-road capable in stock configuration. Especially if this vehicle is your daily driver and only sees occasional off-road use, you should be looking for the optimum configuration using the LEAST possible lift and the SMALLEST possible tires.

 

Thank you for the insight. So basically by redoing the suspension, in it's entirety, then I will be fixing most of the bushings. I'll also definitely check those other two bushings against the frame. And the main reason I wanted to go higher was because of the rub, but I also like the way it looks sitting that high. I'm keeping the same size tires. 

 

Thank you everybody for your inputs, and I've already ordered the majority of the lift from the previous thread. Only missing a couple pieces. 

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Thank you for the insight. So basically by redoing the suspension, in it's entirety, then I will be fixing most of the bushings. I'll also definitely check those other two bushings against the frame. And the main reason I wanted to go higher was because of the rub, but I also like the way it looks sitting that high. I'm keeping the same size tires.

That's why everyone says they want to go higher, but you have to consider where your tires are rubbing, and then look at whether a lift (or MORE lift) can possibly do anything to alleviate it.

 

You haven't mentioned (or I missed it) how wide your tires (and rims) are. You said 32s, so I'm going to guess 32x11.50. That's a wide tire. I ran 31x10.50s in factory rims on my trail MJ, and the inner sidewalls were VERY close to the rear leaf springs and to the inner fender liners. After every wheeling trip, the insides of the rear wheel wells would be polished and coated with black rubber from the tires rubbing as the axle twisted relative to the chassis. More lift would not have helped -- the problem was insufficient lateral clearance.

 

Your wheels appear from the photos to be non-Jeep and to have less backspacing than factory rims, but then you're running much wider tires, so it probably evens out. So IMHO more lift isn't going to help in the rear.

 

Where do you rub in the front? From the photos, I'm guessing that when you turn, the trailing outboard shoulder of the tire hits the lower corner of the front flare. Again, lift isn't the answer there. That's a mismatch of tire width, wheel backspacing and axle width to the vehicle. People don't like to believe it, but it has been proven that you can run 31x10.50s on a stock MJ (or XJ) with NO lift. On factory rims, the 31" tires tuck nicely into the fenders with no cutting or trimming of sheet metal at all. The only rubbing is the inner rear shoulder of the tire rubbing the lower control arm at full steering lock -- and more lift won't cure that, either. The cure is to run WJ lower control arms, which are curved inboard to allow more tire clearance.

 

Now ... if you're in love with the look of a lifted truck, I can't argue with that. I can point out that it's a bad idea for a daily driver because it rides harsher and gets worse gas mileage, as well as being a PITA to get into and out of if you're wearing "dress-up" clothes, but it's ultimately a personal choice. I just don't want you to think you have to spend a bunch of money on a better or bigger lift in hopes of eliminating rubbing, only to find out that you wasted your money. I work for a living ... I know money doesn't grow on trees. Spend enough time to figure out your priorities and what you really need before you break out the Mastercard.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So just a little update. I'm in the middle of the build and it looks like the previous owner put drop brackets in already and @#$%in welded them. So I can't put in my own RE lower, better drop brackets. And then the 5.5" coil springs aren't fitting and are pushing the axle left a little so nothing is lining up to put back together.

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To center the axle with 5.5" lift coils will take a longer (adjustable) track bar. To move the axle over to be able to bolt up the track bar (actually, axle stays in place while the vehicle moves over top of it, use the steering wheel. Yes, this will take two people.

 

Alternatively, a ratchet strap can work too, but the steering wheel works much better. Especially with a foot on the brake pedal to keep the front wheels from rolling, and thus helping them not turn.

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So just a little update. I'm in the middle of the build and it looks like the previous owner put drop brackets in already and @#$%in welded them. So I can't put in my own RE lower, better drop brackets. And then the 5.5" coil springs aren't fitting and are pushing the axle left a little so nothing is lining up to put back together.

 Unbolt the track bar at the frame side before you install the springs.

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So just a little update. I'm in the middle of the build and it looks like the previous owner put drop brackets in already and @#$%in welded them. So I can't put in my own RE lower, better drop brackets. And then the 5.5" coil springs aren't fitting and are pushing the axle left a little so nothing is lining up to put back together.

 

Springs cannot push the axle either way, sideways. Lateral location is done by the track bar. The stock track bar centers the axle for the stock spring height. Lift the truck --> get an adjustable track bar.

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So just a little update. I'm in the middle of the build and it looks like the previous owner put drop brackets in already and @#$%in welded them. So I can't put in my own RE lower, better drop brackets. And then the 5.5" coil springs aren't fitting and are pushing the axle left a little so nothing is lining up to put back together.

 Pictures of previous owner installed drop brackets, please.

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