Knucklehead97 Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Well I added a quart of 10w-30 to my truck since it was low. Then I started refreshing grounds around the engine. I cleaned up the one thats a weird wire web, but only the frame side because I couldnt get the engine one off. Then I cleaned up the engine one behind the oil dipstick. Please note it ran fine right before I started working on it. But now its got a extremely rough idle and I'm scared the PO might of used a different weight oil. I really can't afford a new engine so please tell me this is just a bad sensor or ground or something >.< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Adding a quart of a different weight oil would not have any effect on your idle. Check all your vacuum lines. You may have knocked one loose while working on the engine to firewall ground. Also check your plug wires since you were working on the dipstick ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Thank God on the diff weight oil part. I was scared it woould have an effect on the engine. It does make since that I might've knocked something loose working on the grounds. I guess tomorrow I run a comeplete line connection check. Hopefully it'll run fine after that. I revved the engine to about 2000 rpms last time I cranked it. And it didnt seem to run bad when I gave it gas, but went back to bad when it was idling again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 I put a set of 703's in my 92 and it idles much better now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 What are 703's? Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Injectors. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Ah. Well I'm thinking its I bumped a vaccuum line or something. It literally ran perfect before I started everything. So I'll check all and update tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Got it found out. A vaccum line over beside the firewall ground was out. It needs new rubber on all the lines, so thats soon. And battery cables. And it seems refreshing the grounds fixed my dying out when pressing in the clutch to turn :D runs good for now. Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Way to go, knucklehead. :teehee: But seriously good job. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Nice job man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Line to your MAP sensor mounted on the firewall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 Line to your MAP sensor mounted on the firewall? I believe so. Does the MAP sensor have a green plug on the bottom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 Oh and a quick question. What is every little thing possible that I can do to increase engine life and gas mileage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Well you can start with regular oil changes. That's a given. Those 703s should increase your mileage and give a more complete, easier burn. A standard transmission will net you better mpg than an automatic if you drive it well, ie don't redline at every shift point, shift up whenever you can, etc. Supposedly your best mpg will come when you're cruising at your torque peak, so adjusting axle ratio and tires to match that peak at cruising speed would be good. I'm no expert. Just a couple things I've read about. Oh, you could do a diesel swap! Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Once I get my oil leak fixed, I will be doing regular oil changes. I was thinking injectors, new etter breathing exhaust with no cat to grt clogged up, a new intake (cone filter, probably cold air too), and eventually a bored out throttle body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Cold air increases your power at the expense of mpg. Warm or better, hot air, increases your mileage, and your torque. It causes the gasoline to mix better with the air, which allows a more efficient burn. When the air is cold, the gasoline condenses, causing a less efficient burn, though you get more horsepower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Hmm. I thought the comeplete opposite. Good to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmodman Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Hot air induction reduces top end horsepower, it's true. But since I personally don't use top end hardly ever, the 10-15% mpg increase is worth it. Check this out: http://www.impulsengine.com/how/induction.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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