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Posted

Hello fellow comanche drivers i just bought a new (to me) MJ on my way home it started to rain about ten miles from my house turns out the windshield wiper thingy is broken my turn lights work but not the wipers BTW its a 1987 MJ metric ton long bed 4wd 

Posted

try yanking out the intermittent box. it's a small plastic box under the dash on the drivers side with a plug going in and a plug going out. remove the plugs and plug them into each other (which is how it is in non-intermittent trucks). that should tell you if the box is bad.

Posted

is it possible to just run the wiper motors to a on off switch if the box isnt bad as i only really need them on or off it never drizzles just dumps or sunny here in westport

Posted

sorry to double post the stick seems to be broken when i turn it the whole thing moved and will keep turning how hard is that to replace also removed the box did nothing 

Posted

The wiper/signal stalk locks in to the column in two ways:

 

- the main [metal] stalk which has the plastic end which has wiper speed marks and cruise control switch/end button

-the plastic or chrome part that says 'push' to spray the window that stays put when you turn the wipers on

 

The entire stalk is easily removed from the column by aligning the wiper to the 'off' position, grabbing the entire arm, and pulling firmly straight out [be careful of the cruise control wiring which leads from the column to the stalk if you have cruise]. If the arm does not come out, turn the stalk and pull until you are able to remove it. Once you have the arm out, you will see there is a 'key' or bump that fits in to the groove or keyhole where the stalk rod goes into the switch in the column, which allows the wiper speed setting and the cruise control on/off to be properly aligned. This 'key' will will not allow removal or re-installation unless it is aligned with the keyhole in the switch in the column. Also, a stalk with too long of key end will not allow the rod to snap in place with the key

 

The 'push' part of the stalk fits over the metal rod with the key and may or may not be removable from the rod... I have seen both types on Saginaw columns. The 'push' part also has a 'key' which fits in to the column but around the keyhole for the stalk. The tension of the properly inserted rod key keeps the 'push' key in place snugly in its keyhole against the switch in the column and allows the window washer to be activated when twisted either away or towards you.

 

Should the stalk rod key not be snapped in all the way to the switch in the column, it will allow the wiper settings to spin freely until the cruise wire binds it and may allow the 'push' part to spin as well if it is key is not in its own keyhole.

 

If the key is worn off the stalk rod [unlikely], pick up another stalk from any Saginaw equipped GM car from the 80s in a salvage yard. Having cruise complicates this as the wire runs down the inside of the column.  If you are sure you have the stalk rod inserted and snapped in place, the 'push' in its proper place, and it still spins, then you'll need to replace your switch inside the column.

 

Finally, if you have to replace the in-column switch and your tilt mechanism is already failing allowing you to wobble the steering wheel up/down and side/side, it may be easier and more cost effective to pick up an entire steering column from a salvage yard [or buy one from these guys like I did], and only takes an hour to do.

Posted

my tilt is solid but it seems the someone along the lines took the stalk out and put like jb weld or some sort of glue in the hole and cut the stalk down got it all put back together after taking glue out seems to still spin and wipers still don't work so it seems i will need to get a new switch and stalk well i replacement what all tools will i need to put this in/ take the old one out?

Posted

Check the video on post #7 in this thread to see how involved getting in to a Saginaw column is. You may be up to it... I wasn't. I found it faster and easier to just change the entire column out.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

After a little searching this seems to be the mostly likely thread ... I don't know if this is electrical, vacuum, or just an old, tired wiper motor.

 

I was sitting at a traffic light tonight ... truck in drive, foot on the brake, normal RPM (I don't have a tach, so normal is subjective), lights on, wipers on delay and each time the wipers cycled the RPMs would drop and the wipers did a slow sweep.  Sometimes it seems the truck might stall, but it hasn't.   Only happens in this situation.  The wipers work fine in all settings while traveling. 

Posted

After a little searching this seems to be the mostly likely thread ... I don't know if this is electrical, vacuum, or just an old, tired wiper motor.

 

I was sitting at a traffic light tonight ... truck in drive, foot on the brake, normal RPM (I don't have a tach, so normal is subjective), lights on, wipers on delay and each time the wipers cycled the RPMs would drop and the wipers did a slow sweep.  Sometimes it seems the truck might stall, but it hasn't.   Only happens in this situation.  The wipers work fine in all settings while traveling. 

Perhaps too much of an electrical load on the truck on a tired alternator. By giving it some gas did everything speed up and headlights brighten?

Posted

I didn't notice if the headlights dimmed, but a kick in the pants (a little gas) and everything returns to normal.  The dash lights do not dim.  I should add, I had my directional on and the interval didn't change.

Posted

I put a new battery in the truck less than a year ago.  The cables are in good shape and the battery connections are clean.  As for the grounds ... dunno which you are referring to? 

Posted

On the bottom of the fuse box is the resistor/fuse that tends to get kicked loose. Try that first before all the other effort gets wasted. ;)

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