ParadiseMJ Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Posted over on NAXJA asking about Water Wetter. Just snake oil or?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche1 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 U look into fan clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88mjgilley Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 This is the exact issue i had with my Comanche all my cooling system is new also i ended you removing the Ac condenser and i no longer have a single issue keeping it cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 U look into fan clutch? Fan clutch only affects the temp at super slow speeds or stps, not at speed like Paradise is reporting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Posted over on NAXJA asking about Water Wetter. Just snake oil or?? It works but shouldn't be necessary. Positive your gauge is accurate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Posted over on NAXJA asking about Water Wetter. Just snake oil or?? It works but shouldn't be necessary. Positive your gauge is accurate? No...not positive, but under all other conditions it's spot on...by that I mean, it warms up when I first start off. Goes to 195+ then drops off as the t-stat opens for about 30 seconds. Then it evens out at just under 200 for the level ground freeway trip...driving along at 65-70mph for 20-30 miles, until I get to the hill. When I get about half way up, the gauge starts climbing past 210, 220, 230...til I get to the top. I am working some air out of the system. Just enough to put in the WW. I'll probably install the other t-stat housing this weekend. This is starting to be annoying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I still think it's exhaust related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Could you be running lean under load? Possibly a faulty sensor causing the pulse width of the injectors to be narrow? Knock sensor, CTS, MAP, EGR circuit, etc... Just trying to think of something a bit more obscure since you seem to have the other possibilities covered... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 obscure My middle name these days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Vacuum test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 *hangs head* No, not yet. My weekend will be full of fun, looks like I'm replacing, or at least R & R ing the exhaust manifold, welding it, replacing motor mounts, flex joint etc. big leak. After I'm done with that, I'll go get a vac gauge. Then I'm going looking for a convenient CLIFF. Not for the truck...for me!! Comes at a not good time...my mechanic just called me to tell me the transaxle on my little Nissan commuter is shot...$1400 Damn vehicles are breaking me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomguy310 Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 look on car-parts.com for the Nissan trans might find a deal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 OK, so I'm all giddy now because I fixed my welder yesterday. It wasn't reeling out wire at a predictable rate, I found that it was getting kinked up where it goes into the feed just enough to make it spotty, now it's fixed and I'm getting a nice smooth bead. This weekend I'll be R&R ing the exhaust manifold to weld up the crack at # 5 and put in a flex at the crossover portion of the exhaust pipe. THEN I'll do Cruiser's vac test. I'll be frikken DELIGHTED to put this thread to bed by Saturday night. If the cat is clogged or restricted I'll bite yet another bullet and replace that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Funny you should mention the wire feed thing.... I change the wire on my new to me Miller about a year ago. Went with a .023", and I never could get the welds to look right. I thought it was me, so I kept trying and trying. Then, I had the lid oper so I could see the chart inside, and noticed the writing on the roller wheel said .030. The light bulb went off, and I flipped the wheel 180° and you'd think I could weld like I actually knew how. Just amazing how much difference a steady feed of wire makes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Mine did this when I had a partially clogged cat. Now I don't have a cat. But for you, no-can-do in Cali. Yep, I replaced the cat...the old one. The new one, I can shine a light thru it...and see light. The old one...no light. You were right on. CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction. And FWIW, radiator caps are a maintenance item. I've seen many fail in 2 years or less. ...AND I finally did the vacuum test...which is what finally led to the above. Thanks guys,,,running normal temps now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Thanks for the update. Good old vacuum gauges. My son rented a U-Haul van a week ago. Had a vacuum gauge right on the A-pillar. Was not factory, but from U-Haul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Mine did this when I had a partially clogged cat. Now I don't have a cat. But for you, no-can-do in Cali. Yep, I replaced the cat...the old one. The new one, I can shine a light thru it...and see light. The old one...no light. You were right on. CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction. And FWIW, radiator caps are a maintenance item. I've seen many fail in 2 years or less. ...AND I finally did the vacuum test...which is what finally led to the above. Thanks guys,,,running normal temps now. I'm guessing you prolly noticed a decent power increase from that clogged cat? Maybe better gas Millage too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Power is noticeably better. Mileage...don't know yet...taking a trip tomorrow, about 200 miles one-way, I'll see how it goes. I was only getting about 15 overall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 Sooo, took my trip, still overheating under load on hiway. I got a hose with a spring...from another member. Just installed tonight. will be taking it for test drive tomorrow night. Results few and far between cause it's not my DD and I gotta take the commuter to work so don't get much of a chance to drive it any distance :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my96z Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 I would recommend getting a water pump. I have had a few of the 4.0 engines cool great at idle but under load no. It seems you have changed everything under the sun except the pump. I have had pumps that feel fine and aren't weeping and the impeller blades are gone. How was your coolant when you drained it the first time? Very rusty? Most of the time the rust is from the impeller on the pump. Pumps are cheap and not too hard to change. Take it off and see how the impeller looks just make sure to get a gasket or change he pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 There is no rust in the system. The coolant is bright green, no sign of rust, oil or contamination. I have no heater valve, the cooling system was swapped over to an open system from the get go when I built it. The water pump is relatively new (miles wise) and coolant is circulating well. That is the reason I hadn't mentioned the water pump...and it is the correct R flow pump. Every pump I've had in any of my Jeeps have been fine on the impellers. So...I've fixed and tested the following within the last 2,000 miles months: I'm not just throwing parts at it...this has all been part of the total build. New radiator Water pump Hoses, upper, lower, heaters (and just the other day a new LOWER hose with a spring in it [thanks again Cracker]) T-stat (195) twice New t-stat housing (the old one had a hairline crack in it) New catalytic converter, it was partially clogged New downpipe flange donut New temp sender New rad cap (Super-stat 16 lb.) Flush & fill with new coolant, twice Ext. Tranny cooler 1997 ten blade curved e-fan...on a switch Harmonic Balancer Alternator P/S pump ...A/C is not operable at the moment, so it's not adding any heat to the mix. How hot does it get? Anywhere from just barely over the 210 mark to just before red-line. Test says no exhaust gases in coolant. I'm down to this: I swapped in an AW4 after the BA-10 gave up the ghost. So, my gearing is still 3.07's...I'm also running 31" tires. What I'm thinking is that the engine has to work too hard to move those axles, so it's doggy, and when it's doggy is when it gets hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Did this running hot start when you swapped in the AW4? Or before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zebvance Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 I could see the 3.07s adding to the prob. I know with 3.55's and 32s my mj is sluggish to say the least. I had a lot of over heating probs and did pretty much everything you have done. they are not as bad. but still get up there on hot days. I added the e-fan and it will drop the temps from the red to normal within 5 mins of turning it on at a idle. My overheating thread. Maybe there is something in that that will help you? :???: http://comancheclub.com/topic/35395-mj-still-overheating/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Did this running hot start when you swapped in the AW4? Or before? It did overheat, even when it had the BA-10 in it. It also had the 31's. Don't think 31's are a deal breaker for a D44 with 3.07's...but since I won't be doing the Rubicon anytime soon...anyhoo, the AW4 has never been quite right (which I can only attribute to my OWN work) electronically. I still can't get a reading on the TPS. Tried to, drove it, tried, drove, and so on. But still, driving down the highway it seems to do fine. I did all the cooling system swapping before, and it ran a some cooler. I could see the 3.07s adding to the prob. I know with 3.55's and 32s my mj is sluggish to say the least. I had a lot of over heating probs and did pretty much everything you have done. they are not as bad. but still get up there on hot days. I added the e-fan and it will drop the temps from the red to normal within 5 mins of turning it on at a idle. My overheating thread. Maybe there is something in that that will help you? :???: http://comancheclub.com/topic/35395-mj-still-overheating/ My trans cooler is directly in front of the e-fan.. .in front of the radiator. Once it starts climbing, even the e-fan only helps a little. I'll read your thread and see if I missed something, but it sure is frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbyrambler Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Could the timing be off? - - Sounds like the cooling system's been gone through - - maybe time to look elsewhere :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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