JOMJ87 Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 Ok I'm fabbing up upper control arms i wanted to know what rod ends you like the best for this application. I am trying to get my parts lined up and ready when i get back to the states cause i have a ride planned for Sept and want all my projects done on the MJ i cna get done. So lets hear what you have and how it worked and if you found a good deal let me know where to shop and such. Thanks again for dealing with the onslot of questions. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 Thanks again for dealing with the onslot of questions. Cole Oooo, I hope that's not an apology for asking questions. Cause I'd hate to have to refer you to our forum rules. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 As long as you have a flexable CA, IE one that twists. I prefer the stock Rubber. If not a Jonny Joint and a stock rubber is next best. AVOID Hiem unless its offroad only. They wear fast and are VERY noisy and harsh on the street. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 As long as you have a flexable CA, IE one that twists. I prefer the stock Rubber. If not a Jonny Joint and a stock rubber is next best. AVOID Hiem unless its offroad only. They wear fast and are VERY noisy and harsh on the street. CW Are you saying that it'd be fine to run a jonny joint on the street? I'm in the early stages of my long arm plans and would love to get the extra flex, but am not willing to lose ride quality. In fact, some of the reason I'd lke to change is for ride quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 It all depends on what you are going to be using them for, and how you wheel. I agree hiem joints are not for street rigs, and they are not for places where you wheel in mud alot. there are lots of choices to... shop around and see what you find, also remember the bigger joints require bigger tubing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 Here is all you need to know about the "jonnyjoint". http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestor ... oints.aspx CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twisty Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 thx for posting that vid CW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted March 18, 2007 Share Posted March 18, 2007 thx for posting that vid CW. x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Your both welcome!! Knoledge is power... we should all soak it up like a sponge! Informative huh!! Nice site as well!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 so i take it that if i went with Rock Krawler set up i should take there heim joint out and put in a jonny joint then becouse it will see both on and offroad life??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Yeah... Or you could use a RE cartridge joint, a polyperformance uniball, an evolution sleeved heim (a heim with a poly sleeve) or several others that I can't think of right now. There's LOTS of joints out there. The ones I mentioned have adjustable preload. Johnny joints have to be shimmed with a washer as they wear - which is okay other than you have to get the washer. With adjustable ones you just need a spanner wrench or a hammer and punch (in a pinch). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Aaannnddd Johnny Joints are hitting the MJ this summer and probably the Toyota. I had never researched cartridge style joints before! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted March 19, 2007 Author Share Posted March 19, 2007 Thanks again for dealing with the onslot of questions. Cole Oooo, I hope that's not an apology for asking questions. Cause I'd hate to have to refer you to our forum rules. :D Thats no a apology thats a thank you. :D Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted March 19, 2007 Author Share Posted March 19, 2007 What about a ploy version of the stock bushing with a stud on it. Its going to thread into the arm so it should get all the flex it needs from having the threads???? Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Don't use the flexing thread crap... Well, you can get away with it in the short term - a couple years depending. And if you grease them religiously. But when they fail it ain't pretty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 What about a ploy version of the stock bushing with a stud on it. Its going to thread into the arm so it should get all the flex it needs from having the threads???? Cole I'm not sure if you watched the Currie video or not, cause I remember you saying that the computer your on is limited, but he talks about that working off threads is Much better than just bushings, but they are still lacking due to the way that a suspensions system cycles in a large arc. Those 2.5" Johnny's are only like $30 through Currie! The 4x4 shop here wanted $57... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 The thread bushing thing is similar to the JKS setup and the setup terra used on their first generation Long arms. It actually works pretty good for bushings as it gives them the articulation to keep them from distorting. Be advised that JJ have to be shimmed as they wear, and that can get old... a lot of the newer joints out there use the oil impregnated plastic and have the preload established by a screw in side, thus making it easier and faster to adjust preload (if that makes sense) Also keep in mind that some joints out there have different diameter threads.... Mine are 1 1/4 x12 where JJ are 1 x12, some are as small as 3/4 :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 a lot of the newer joints out there use the oil impregnated plastic and have the preload established by a screw in side, thus making it easier and faster to adjust preload (if that makes sense) Would you mind suggesting or linking us to one of these joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted March 20, 2007 Author Share Posted March 20, 2007 OK I'm am leanring alot hear. I have learned that Third arms from a tractor heim joints are loud and ruff riding. I made my lowers out of these in high school and quickly swapped them for real ones. The reason i was thinking a Poly bushing instead of a johnny joint is cause My MJ is driving on street more then off road due to me having to use it as my DD and from what i read the johnny joints provide a ruff ride and wear out quickly on the street. I was thinking since i could use a poly bushing and a threaded rod it would cause me to flex better then stock and give me the correct and adjustable length for my uppers so my axle sits correctly. And no freerock i can't view the Vid but i will try later on a diff comp the i have to pay to use. Thanks for the info Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Here is a link to the joints I bought http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstore ... -1227.html I went with the 11/4 shank, just for added beef. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 Here is a link to the joints I bought http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstore ... -1227.html I went with the 11/4 shank, just for added beef. So how do you adjust preload on those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 When you tighten them together they are preloaded. the oil impregnated plastic last longer then the rubber or poly bushing. Once you put it together its done... No other issues later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 So they last longer and are better in the flex department. I think i might get them. You think they will do good on the street. Are the ones they list without studs the same and what is the 2.63 messurement of is IT the width cause that is the messurement i need?? Will they fit in the stock UCA hole?? Thanks for the help Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted March 23, 2007 Share Posted March 23, 2007 I am not sure how they would last on the street.. I went with them cause they had a discount, and the sell th brackets I bought. I am not sure if they will fit in the stock openings.. I almost doubt it... they look to be double the size of the RE parts.. as soon as I get a chance I will check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted March 24, 2007 Author Share Posted March 24, 2007 Thanks alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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