ctxj93 Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 I swapped the cluster in my 88 MJ with one from my old 90 XJ. I replaced the Oil Pressure sensor with the one for a gauge a while back but never got around to the temp sender. I swapped it today with napa part # TS6053 which is supposed to be the sender for a gauge as well. However, the temp gauge just stays pegged like it did when the sender for the idiot light was there. When I unplug the sender it still stays all the way on the right side of the gauge. When the truck is shut off the gauge moves back towards the cooler side slightly but not much. Any ideas as to what might be wrong? The cluster worked fine in my my XJ. The only thing I noticed was when I was running the idiot light sender, if the truck was really cold the temp gauge would bounce around for the first couple minutes of driving before going to its pinned position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exgrayxj Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Sharper minds than mine will know, but I am thinking that if you ran it with the gauge pinned at the high end you have probably fried the gauge. On another note, the sender I got from Autozone made my gauge read higher than actual temp. Looked the same, but it's replacement seems to be accurate. Worth checking when you get a working gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJCARENA Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 If I remember right the sender for the light has a slot cut into the threaded part at the top like a screw, the one for the gauge has no slot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctxj93 Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 Alrighty I don't really understand why it would burn out the gauge but it's a possibility. And yes if I the senders that I have are correct then the idiot light sender is slotted and the gauge one is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I think they gauges can get miscalibrated if they've been knocked around a bit, like the back half isn't lined up with where the needle's pointing. your case seems a little extreme, though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Did you put any teflon tape or thread sealer on the sender? Since the sender is grounded on the block it would tend to interfere with a proper reading...just a shot!!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctxj93 Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 Did you put any teflon tape or thread sealer on the sender? Since the sender is grounded on the block it would tend to interfere with a proper reading...just a shot!!? DOH! I did actually. Seemed like a good idea at the time haha But I tried grounding the wire to the block, as well as unplugging it and noticed no change in the gauge reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctxj93 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 I don't know if anyone cares, but I fixed the problem today by accident. I changed my clutch MC which was leaking into my fuse panel. So after I blasted myself in the eyes with the contact cleaner, I proceded to pull all the fuses and clean the hell out of the panel. With some fresh fuses and a clean fuse-block, my gauge came back to life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Did you put any teflon tape or thread sealer on the sender? Since the sender is grounded on the block it would tend to interfere with a proper reading...just a shot!!? DOH! I did actually. Seemed like a good idea at the time haha But I tried grounding the wire to the block, as well as unplugging it and noticed no change in the gauge reading. Well, there's your clue. The sender range is 0 (zero) to 88 ohms. The classic test for a non-functioning gauge is to unplug the wire from the sender. With the ignition on, this creates an open circuit (infinite resistance), which should peg the gauge all the way to the right. Then ground the wire to a known good ground on the engine. This creates a short circuit, or zero resistance. The needle should then peg all the way to the left. If you do this and the gauge doesn't move, either the gauge is faulty (which you can check by removing it and repeating the est using jumper wires) or there's an open or shorted wire between the sender and the gauge cluster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Cool deal! Its always nice to fix 2 problems at once! haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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