wrpoole Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 Just for my knowledge was the jeep 2.5 made by amc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Yes its an AMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrpoole Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 Just for my knowledge was the jeep 2.5 made by amc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Yes, the rule of thumb is a properly sized turbo on any engine... 10 psi should roughly double the flywheel HP. Atmospheric pressure is 14.x psi. To double the power, you need to double the compression, meaning another 14 psi. Without a remap, new cam, etc. 40hp is just about all you'd get out of 8 psi on a 120hp engine. Don't believe me? The Buick 3800 L36 is good for 205hp. The L67 adds a supercharger running at max rpm 7-8 psi, and makes a whopping 270hp. 65 is 31% of 205. 31% of 120 is 38. I'd expect that results for the AMC 2.5 would be more similar to the Buick than to an import. That said, I don't think it's a bad idea, per se. I just wasn't sure you'd put as much thought into it as you could have. As long as you're prepared to do what it takes to get it done properly, it would be pretty badass and very one of a kind. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrpoole Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Atmospheric pressure is 14.x psi. To double the power, you need to double the compression, meaning another 14 psi. Without a remap, new cam, etc. 40hp is just about all you'd get out of 8 psi on a 120hp engine. Don't believe me? The Buick 3800 L36 is good for 205hp. The L67 adds a supercharger running at max rpm 7-8 psi, and makes a whopping 270hp. 65 is 31% of 205. 31% of 120 is 38. I'd expect that results for the AMC 2.5 would be more similar to the Buick than to an import. That said, I don't think it's a bad idea, per se. I just wasn't sure you'd put as much thought into it as you could have. As long as you're prepared to do what it takes to get it done properly, it would be pretty badass and very one of a kind. :thumbsup: That makes a lot of sense for the boost I would need to double atmospheric pressure I think my buddy has a spare ko4 and he said he usually sees those get about 22.5 psi of boost so I will probably need to a lot of engine work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrpoole Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 And also hoping for the one of a kind thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 I found a guy with a 2.5l running 8psi and making 170 hp at the wheels. I tried to get his dyno sheet but the link is too old. With our old school engine I would expect about 8hp per lb of boost more effecient engines can make more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 You would definently need a lot of engine work to safely run that much boost. Also doubling atmospheric pressure will only double displacement if your engine can process all of it which most stock engines can't. Keep in mind that what you see on the boost guage is residual pressure and not what the engine is actually using,an engine can only move so much air and the rest is just residual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Atmospheric pressure is 14.x psi. To double the power, you need to double the compression, meaning another 14 psi. Without a remap, new cam, etc. 40hp is just about all you'd get out of 8 psi on a 120hp engine. Don't believe me? The Buick 3800 L36 is good for 205hp. The L67 adds a supercharger running at max rpm 7-8 psi, and makes a whopping 270hp. 65 is 31% of 205. 31% of 120 is 38. I'd expect that results for the AMC 2.5 would be more similar to the Buick than to an import. That said, I don't think it's a bad idea, per se. I just wasn't sure you'd put as much thought into it as you could have. As long as you're prepared to do what it takes to get it done properly, it would be pretty badass and very one of a kind. :thumbsup: Uhm... sure. lol. I do this every day for a living. Ive seen it about... 1000 times. You missed a part of the equation. I said "properly sized" With a tiny turbo, you need 25 psi to move the air that a big turbo does at 7 psi. So unless you have the compressor map for the turbo to be used and the engines VE map then your just shooting at the sky. Yes $#!&ty engines don't respond to boost like effiecient ones do so what you said does have some merit. I just finished turboing one of the $#!&tyest engines honda made. The B20 that came out of the CRV. It is a small cam low compression low flowing cylinder head engine. Stock it makes 143 hp and 133 ft lbs at the flywheel. We put 12 psi to it with a "street brawler" as its known, regular old t3/t4 50 trim. It put down 350 hp and 340 tq AT THE WHEELS. So use the math you used above and explain that one to me please. Just after that build... i did an s2000 with a vortech SC, one of my signature builds. 240 hp stock motor. We left the dyno at 445 to the tire. 12 psi. So yes... what i said stands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wurst Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 I see more engine specific mods including block/head rebuilds on other forums. What is it about the 4.0 that nobody feels the need to modify it? Is there no aftermarket support? Does it not need it? Personally, I feel a truck should be a truck. High torque, low/medium HP. Please enlighten a VWer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrpoole Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 with the 4.o being an awesome motor from factory most people just do an new intake set up or go as far as new header and intake manifold from a 99+ 4.0 which increases hp and fuel economy but if you really want to go crazy check this link out http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html as for turboing the 2.5 does anybody know if there are how to's or turboing stuff for dummies where i could find all the math that i would need to produce a "perfect" set up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I see more engine specific mods including block/head rebuilds on other forums. What is it about the 4.0 that nobody feels the need to modify it? Is there no aftermarket support? Does it not need it? Personally, I feel a truck should be a truck. High torque, low/medium HP. Please enlighten a VWer. Well its already PLENTY of engine for the truck its in. Thats the great part. Think about it this way, how many toyota 22R fanbois wheel ALL day every weekend with 100 hp and 100 ft lbs of torque...... TONS of em. We have 190hp and 225 tq. double what those guys have. While thats not some wheelstanding #, its more than a lot of other trucks have. This is from allpar.com.. Peter wrote: In 1987 I wondered why they didn't drop the 4.0 I6 into the YJ, which was still using the 112-117 hp 258 (4.2 liter) six; or the Eagle, Concord and Grand Wagoneer, which came with the four-barrel 360 V8, making just 144 hp. The 4.0 made more power than the Ford 302 V8, Chevy 305, Chrysler 318, and AMC 360, as well as any of the six cylinder engines the Japanese were putting in their trucks, and it had comparable or better fuel economy . An AMC Concord with the 177 hp 4.0 I6 might have been a better police pursuit vehicle than the Dodge Diplomats (140-150HP), Chevy Caprices (160-170HP) and Ford Crown Victorias (160-165HP). Compared with other contemporary engines, the 4.0 was strong up until the end. See what I'm saying. Thats likely why nobody mods them. They just need some gears matched to the tire size you want and if youd like a 4:1 transfer case mod. coupled with a tad better air filter setup and a free flowing exhaust and you don't have to spend a dime on the engine. Work the rest of the rig and you have a killer trail machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walkenvol Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Uhm... sure. lol. I do this every day for a living. Work on cars or the girl in your sig? I find myself staring too long at her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 OP - What is your ultimate goal for your truck? Going with a 60/14 can mean a lot of things. Do you plan on racing, crawling or mud slinging? I believe the stock 2.5 would work well for crawling with the appropriate gears. If you are after a more multi purpose rig, I could see the 2.5 benefiting a lot from boost that kicks in at higher RPM. I haven't the slightest idea if it could handle it or not. Did your 60 and 14 bolt come from the same truck? If so, the front will be wrong (right) side drop and won't work with the 231 you got attached to the AW4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrpoole Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 My main plain is to Be able to crawl and crawl everything with the additions of the turbo I'm looking to get a little extra power for when I do the occasional local "100ft dirt drag" or when I need to "bump it" the 60 and 14bolt came out of 2different vehicles the 60 came from a dodge 2500 and the 14 bolt came from a Chevy van Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrpoole Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Work on cars or the girl in your sig? I find myself staring too long at her. Don't worry I stare to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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