Got New Engine Started, Why Does Rms Still Leak?

[1987Comanche]

I finished wiring up replacement engine #2 last night about midnight and fired her up first first thing this morning. This engine seems to run ok and I completed the cam break in but the RMS leaks horribly. I replaced it when I had the engine on the stand and did everything by the book. I'll try it again with another 2 piece Fel-Pro and anaerobic sealant but I can't figure out why it leaks. Any tricks I'm missing?

[jimoshel]

Check the old seal when you remove it. Usually there's too much of a mess to really tell anything but occasionally you get lucky and there's a clue as to why it's leaking. Is it leaking between the shaft and seal? between the seal ends, or the seal and crank cap.? Was it damaged during installation? Only suggestion I can make is be sure you have the correct seal. Don't just go by the box label. Make sure it's the right seal in the box. Make sure all surfaces are clean, don't damage the seal when installing. Sacrifice your first born to the Auto Seal Gods.

[Pete M]

if the crank is scored, someone out there makes a double lip seal that can help. :thumbsup:

 

fwiw, it took 5 tries to get my rms to stop spewing oil. :(

[mvusse]

Wow, I guess I got lucky then, as I did it once and it seems to be holding. Tiny bit of oil still, but that may be what had pooled onside the bellhousing, or possibly the back of the valve cover. But not the 2 quarts it would pump out on a single day of hard wheeling (or a week of street driving).

[1987Comanche]

The crank should be ok as I used a brass punch to drive the last RMS out. The engine has zero miles on it so unless they screwed up the crank (always a possibility) it shouldn't be scored or worn.

I have anaerobic sealer for the end tabs of the bottom half of the rear main and I'll use just a touch where the 2 seal halves meet. Additionally I'll put just a bit on the chamfer on the end cap, as per the FSM. I have engine assy lube for the seal lips. FYI only found one RMS for this truck...the Fel-Pro seal. BS 40612

 

fwiw, it took 5 tries to get my rms to stop spewing oil. :(

 

Pete: What finally worked for you?

[Pete M]

I can tell you for sure that I put a tiny nick in the new seal the first time around and figured I could get away with it. :doh: Eventually the second RMS was the winner (it's not like I blew through 5 RMS's) but it kept dripping after each try for reasons I couldn't pin down. I just dropped the pan and re-did it. in the end I used gobs and gobs of silicone on the back of the pan and an overnight cure in a last-ditch attempt... and miracles of miracles, it worked. :dunno:

[Stacks]

I'll toss one tidbit of info I've gleaned from working on the 4 liter. Use the Jeep OEM rear mail seal. They seem to work more reliably than most of the aftermarket ones. :thumbsup:

[ParadiseMJ]

I got my RMS for the XJ at Auto Zone...6 years and 60K miles ago...doesn't leak. What did I do wrong??

[1987Comanche]

I got my RMS for the XJ at Auto Zone...6 years and 60K miles ago...doesn't leak. What did I do wrong??

 

You didn't start with an engine remanufactured in Mexico. At least I'll be able to see if the cam bearings are coming out of this one...

[1987Comanche]

Apparently I need anaerobic sealer

[maddzz1]

if the crank is scored, someone out there makes a double lip seal that can help. :thumbsup:

 

fwiw, it took 5 tries to get my rms to stop spewing oil. :(

 

Felpro makes the double lip seal. I have one at the house my truck is at, next time I'm there I can check to see if it has a part # on it.

 

EDIT: the BS 40612 that you have is the double lip seal;

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FPGBS40612_0147549820