ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Hi folks, Painting truck frame. I have a new gallon of valspar tractor paint and don't get me wrong its good stuff, but it is still just paint. For a second option i have about 3/4 of a gallon of some kind of bed liner (missing the label) I have had it in the barn for about 4 years now maybe longer. When i found it in the barn i realized it had never been opened. Either way i took it out, mixed it thoroughly and applied a liberal coating to my fuel tank skid plate and the fuel tank itself, let it sit for a day in the sun so it could cure and let me tell you brother whatever that stuff is, it is bad as hell. I mean Rock hard, tuff as nails. My problem however is that i know i will not have enough of the bed liner to do the whole frame, I will have plenty of the Tractor paint if i choose to go this route. Unfortuately this is time critical, as in tomorrow is my last day to do this. With the weather cooling off rapidly the tractor paint will most likely take weeks to cure, if at all. thanks for ya help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Mix your tractor paint with hardner. Do not apply bed liner to the frame, paint only. If you get a good coat of paint on it there is no reason to even consider undercoating. Bed liner is not designed to be used as an undercoating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Striaght tractor paint is the route i finally choose, never occured to me to mix the two together, thats a great idea :idea: . Why didnt i think of that. The only thing I was concered about the tractor paint was rocks kicking up and gouging the paint, Remember even when this stuff is fully dry i can still scrape it up with my finger nail, takes some effort but i can do it. I will post some pictures on this thread sometime later tonight, I think everything came out alright in the end. I did an entire first coat of nothing but permetex rust destroyer, good stuff, and then probably 2-3 coats of that valspar implement/tractor paint. Probably going to take a week of good sun to dry thoroughly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Here we go. . . start. uncleaned, just after removing the bed. After a good coat of permetex, and a earlier test run of tractor paint. And final product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 looks good to me... B... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Just a question about the permetex rust destroyer, what is it exactly? Do you just paint it over the steel and it dissolves / deoxidizes the rust? My 6th sense goes off when talk of painting over rust comes up is all. How would it compare to sandblasting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Well personally i don't think there is any substitue for sandblasting when its avaiable. I tried to figure out a way to get a hold of one, but around here its about $200 to rent one per day NOT including media. As for the stuff i used, I have to say I really like the Permetex a LOT. Just as a little test i put about a coat and a half on the top half of one of the frame rails. It turned the metal a dull kinda color, but 4 months later of baking sun, pouring rain (mind you it also pooled on the frame for days at a time) it looked exactly the same, no surface rust, flash rust, or anything, nada. the I have a major surplus of it on hand to so using it was a no brainer. To make a long story short i got close to 80 bucks worth of permetex for 8 bucks :D talk about the deal of the day. To fully answer your question permetex is a milky colored liquid that when brushed/sponged over rust converts it into an ultra hard paintable surface. I have also had great success painting this stuff over good, clean, solid metal. Even with no rust it still forms a hard protective layer. FYI one bottle will be enough to do your entire frame with one coat. Hope this answered your question :crossfingers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 So that's this stuff then? I was mostly curious about what's going on there on a chemical level, although looking at the MSDS and TDS, it looks like it uses acid to dissolve the rust, and then the other ingredients react with it to form the hard compound. Looks like decent stuff. Yeah, you've answered my question.... I think... yeah, you did. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butchershop Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 You may be sorry you asked. Most likely it is a displacement reaction. The barium sulfate is the active which 'kills' the rust (iron oxide). The iron replaces the barium and the compound iron sulfate is formed (along with barium oxide which is black or dark grey in color). Neither of these are strong oxidizers of metal so they are essentially much less harmful and require very favorable conditions to oxidize the metal - high moisture, temp, etc. The other functional compound is the copolymer which forms a very hard coating. The acid is the carrier for the barium sulfate which is insoluble in water. The water is the carrier for the polymer. The other components compatibilize the acid and water. Yep, chem nerd here. ChemE and Polymer Chemist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 MechEng student here, I do have some background in chemistry (but I still try to avoid it!). Your answer is greatly appreciated! Not sorry at all! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 So that's this stuff then? Probably the same stuff, but this is the exact item I used. P.S. I like chemistry its just i got a real bad taste in my mouth when I utterly failed my last college chemistry course because my teacher was 100% chinese and engrish was his thurd langrige. :shake: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Link? Three browsers are refusing to acknowledge that's a picture... I feel the same way about chem. I'm getting to take the first level chem course for a third time... the first time I took it, I managed to sleep through a lab (my own fault, I knew better than to choose the 8am Monday morning lab...) which failed me the course with about six weeks left in the semester. Then the next time I took it, my prof was a complete b*@$£ with a high-pitched whiny voice, so I didn't bother going to lectures, and I had the same issues with my lab TA you had. I'm not sure how he managed to keep his job, since he couldn't really put more than two words together at a time, so his sentences usually were things like "spoofrayderice" (we eventually worked that one out to "hold the spoon over the flame device", i.e bunsen burner...) I managed to pull a 68%, but then I went and switched schools and they wouldn't transfer anything lower than 70%... So my avoiding chem isn't working out too well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 I feel ya bro. :typing: Oh and the picture should work now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 okay, yeah, if you click on the "more info" on the permatex page, you get a pic of that bottle. Likely much cheaper than the aerosol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butchershop Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Yeah, another interesting note is that Barium Sulfate is used when an internist wants to conduct an upper and lower GI scan. Either you drink it or it enters the body through the 'exit only' valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Is this stuff better than phosphate based rust products? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butchershop Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Same basic chemistry with the phosphate. In simplest terms, it converts iron oxide to iron phosphate (from red to black). They are both iron oxide (rust) converters rather than removers, so very good for our MJ's. Most replacers have the vinyl acrylic coating, which is the post-conversion protective coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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