Tracker Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 ..... and man I wish it was just a matter of bleeding or replacing the master cylinder- already done that. :mad: It's kind of odd: The clutch feels smooth and engages in the middle of the pedal travel, but it won't let go enough to shift into gear from neutral. While sitting still, with clutch pedal all the way down, if I put a little pressure on the shifter I can feel the tranny spinning. Then if I turn the engine off while holding the pressure, it smoothly goes into gear as the engine stops. If I had to guess at this point I'd say weak slave. Am I on the right track? With an internal slave it looks like we're going in- unless anyone here has any ideas. :wrench: '87 4WD, 2.5, AX5. Bought it this way 2 weeks ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 maybe not a weak slave so much as someone playing with the clutch and bearings. Maybe the throwout bearing doesn't have enough range of travel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 Or maybe your clutch is worn or your pressure plate is bad? but it's most likely not the slave cylinder... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted February 27, 2007 Author Share Posted February 27, 2007 I'm just dreading a tranny pull, since I just did one between Xmas and New Years. :cry: Looking on the bright side of things, what's the chances of the new clutch parts we just put in the '89 2WD AX4, (250 miles B-4 a sub-frame bending accident) will work on the 87 4WD AX5? It will make my day if only the freshly-resurfaced flywheel will work. :D Too bad most of you are back east. There's going to be a lot of parts left over from the switch-over project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 I'm just dreading a tranny pull, since I just did one between Xmas and New Years. :cry: Looking on the bright side of things, what's the chances of the new clutch parts we just put in the '89 2WD AX4, (250 miles B-4 a sub-frame bending accident) will work on the 87 4WD AX5? It will make my day if only the freshly-resurfaced flywheel will work. :DToo bad most of you are back east. There's going to be a lot of parts left over from the switch-over project. AFAIK its the same tranny, just a 5th gear and no extension housing. Shoould worjk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted March 2, 2007 Share Posted March 2, 2007 I'm having a similar problem. It's the pilot bearing going bad and seizing itself to the input shaft. Mine squeals for a sec before it grabs if I'm sitting with my foot on the clutch, then it LEAPS forward! VERY disconcerting to say the least! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 I'm just dreading a tranny pull, since I just did one between Xmas and New Years. :cry: Looking on the bright side of things, what's the chances of the new clutch parts we just put in the '89 2WD AX4, (250 miles B-4 a sub-frame bending accident) will work on the 87 4WD AX5? It will make my day if only the freshly-resurfaced flywheel will work. :DToo bad most of you are back east. There's going to be a lot of parts left over from the switch-over project. it's the same clutch. the ax4 is the same tranny just with 4 speed i'm told. is that correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted March 3, 2007 Share Posted March 3, 2007 sam bellhousing and clutch parts. the jeep FSM does recommend against resurfacing the flywheel, as it has a concave shape, and there's no adjustments for the clutch travel to take up the extra space. Some get lucky, some get a clutch that's odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted March 4, 2007 Author Share Posted March 4, 2007 Well, we yanked the engine / trans out of the wrecked MJ today, (and I do mean yanked. It's easy with a Mikita angle grinder) and pulled the trans out of the replacement MJ too. It was the slave causing most of the problem. It looked like the PO put a disk in not too long ago but left a cheap plastic-body slave in there. Luckily, all the new parts in the wrecked truck were a match. :banana: One real bummer though- all 4 bolts in the front of the front driveshaft broke off in the flange. I guess there's no easy way to fix it? Drill out or replace the flange? :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 weld a nut to the stud...just place the nut over the ends and weld it. don't attempt to do that if you think you can't do it without wrecking anything else. if not drill it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted March 4, 2007 Author Share Posted March 4, 2007 weld a nut to the stud.... I wish I could. They all snapped about 3 threads into the flange - nothing sticking out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 replace the yoke on the t-case is worst case scenario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 weld a nut to the stud.... I wish I could. They all snapped about 3 threads into the flange - nothing sticking out. when i rebuilt the camaro motor for my truck, i broke off 2 bolts holding the exhaust manifolds on. they were 2 threads in my dad managed to do it. what he did was take and weld a spot in the middle of the bolts then build on it, then slide the nut over it and finish it off...oh, he sprayed the $#!& outta it with wd40 beforehand, then let it soak and moved them with a vice grips. dried them off and welded the nuts on, came right out. granted, we have a pretty decent little welder AND those bolts were bigger. they're hardened too so drilling them out will take as much if not more time as trying to weld them. new yoke sounds like the plan of action... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted March 5, 2007 Author Share Posted March 5, 2007 Thanks for the tips guys. I know I'll use them sometime but not on this one- there is nothing to hold on to, weld to, or even see. This is at the axle end, not the T-case end of things. I didn't try drilling yet but I did do a grinding wheel spark test on the broken bolts. They didn't spark out like G-8- I'd say 5 at the most, which may be part of the reason they broke. On the brighter side, the clutch swap went smooth and everything is working great. We'll just be 2WD for a short time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 I drill the yoke through and switch to Ubolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted March 6, 2007 Author Share Posted March 6, 2007 I drill the yoke through and switch to Ubolts. I was thinking thru-bolts with lock nuts on the back. The back of the flange has flats machined on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Guess what, tag my name to this post as well. My clutch is not diengaging at all though. It does at some points and drives like it did a week ago and at other times I have to shut it off to come to a stop. It has gotten noticably worse over the last few days. I'm going to try to bleed it tonight and see if thats where my problem lies. Wish me luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 No air in the lines at all. They shot me in the face in fact :mad: So now what? Is the slave weak, is the pressure plate shot? IDK. When the truck is cold it seems better and once it warms up is when the clutch won't disengage completely... thoughts? Everything except the pilot bushing was replaced this summer with NEW parts, not reconditioned ones, NEW ones from carquest that have less than 5000 miles on them. It can't be the pilot bushing can it, that shouldnt keep things from disengaging? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 the fact that it works better in the cold is a factor of bad clutch. have you experienced any clutch slippage since the new clutch? i recently had a similar experience with mine, when i put the camaro engine in it it had a thicker flywheel and i didn't accomodate fully for that..resulted in the clutch slipping when i stepped on the gas. drove it mayve 30 miles on a almost new clutch and took half the life off it in one go... end result of that was that my throwout bearing and plate were too thick. i had to shave the back of the plate off to allow the plate more room to swing..needed to get about 3/8" gap between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate...if there's no gap, then the bearing is ALWAYS engaging the clutch, resulting in minor, if not unnoticable slippage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Yah, IDK, I'm just going to take it to a tranny shop and pay through the butt to get it taken care of. I don't have the tools up here to drop the tranny and I don't want to drive it 400 miles to get home like this. All the stuff I have is all Jeep and I don't know why I am having these problems. I didnt put in a different engine like you did... I havent had any problems with the clutch slipping and I still don't. It just won't disengage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted March 8, 2007 Author Share Posted March 8, 2007 As near as I could tell I had several things causing my problem. After a good bleeding it would work for a couple of pushes, then it would stop working and need bleeding again. Air was getting into the slave and only a small amount of fluid would leak into the bell housing, so the leak wasn't obvious from the outside. Once we got inside we found that the pressure plate and flywheel were kind of cooked looking but the friction disk looked like new. (This is in a recently-purchased MJ so its service history was not known) We had all new parts available (12/06) from a recently wrecked truck so once they were in the problem was gone. One thing did give us fits though: We were swapping parts from two different trucks and found out that the hydraulic fittings did not want to seal until all the parts from the wrecked truck were put into the new truck. I guess those flare fittings can get shaped to their original mates and not like to be switched. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Yah, from looking at things on the outside, I can't see any leaks at all. I still have a good level in the master cylinder too and I bled the system last night and go no air. What I am going to try is to replace the master cylinder. My guess is that since it is a heat related problem, the seals warm up in the master cyl and are shot so I lose my pressure and then don't disengage the clutch... it is worth a shot considering that all the parts I have in for the clutch were BRAND NEW only 5000 miles ago. Only thing I didnt replace was the pilot bushing, it felt tight and I greased that up good before everything went back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 On related note... should I buy the master cylinder kit or the whole new unit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Just out of curiosity, is the clutch line secured and not near the exhaust pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 buy a new master, it's not that expensive. I think my clutch master was $25, the rebuild kit was $13, not worth it to have to rebuild a clutch master for $12. I agree that changing out the master is what I would try. it's a cheap solution if it works, and you avoid taking the trans back out. Mine turned out to be the hose leaking fluid, and when the master ran dry I destroyed the seals when I pushed it all the way in and it was dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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