D60 front

[mvusse]

Tired of replacing axles shafts because either the u joint broke or the ears stretched causing them to pop the caps out, as well as unit bearings and ball joints. So I picked up a kingpin HP60 front axle.

 

Now I need to work on getting it under Wilbur. Removed just about everything that's bolted on. Next I need to cut off everything that's welded, then sandblast it so I got clean metal to weld to. Ballistic Fab makes some nice coil/shock/lower control arm/track bar combined brackets for $110. The problem is the upper control arms. If nothing else I can make the passenger side myself and weld it directly to the tube. The problem is the driver side.

 

Any ideas? Has anybody else here done this?

[dave92cherokee]

I'm sure some here have done it, but I know ALOT of people on NAXJA have done it and the front end of a mj and xj are the same. Go over there and look through the advanced fab section and you're sure to get plenty of ideas.

[mnkyboy]

Usually you just build a simple truss over the Diff and intigrate the mount into it.

 

 

Something like this

[Regger]

When I put the D44 under my MJ, I used I think 3/8 plate and fitted it over the pumpkin, similar to the above pic. I then welded it to both the tubes, and the top of the pumpkin. Some pics and my build thread:http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2068&start=15

 

If you have the fab skills, and the ability, I would recommend making your own brackets. I did myself using 1/4"wall square tube. The reason i did this, was that I was able to raise all my control arm brackets, and my spring pads up 2" to not only give me a lift, but also have it so that nothing is hanging down under the axle to get hung up on. And with the size of your pumpkin, you will need to at least raise the lower so that your separation distance between your upper and lower control arm brackets are as close to stock as possible. Just makes it easier when designing the brackets and their positions.

 

HTH

Ryan

[mvusse]

My skills are mainly with wood, although I've done some 3/16 and 1/4" steel for the truck. As long as nothing needs bent I'm usually okay between a jigsaw, grinder, drill press and drum sander. If something needs welded on somewhere I usually tack it in place, then take it to a shop in town or a buddy 30 minutes away to have it burned on permanently.

 

Had not thought about control arm separation until you mentioned it, but you have a valid point. With the upper arm mounts above the pumpkin, the lower link mounts will probably need to be on the face of the tube instead of below it to stay with stock separation. But with more height between them the pinion will actually turn up when the axle droops down which is not a bad thing either.

[89eliminator]

are you still going to be on short arms?

[johnny quest]

i used the ballistic fab coil/shock/lower arm mounts on an 89 ford d60 and while i havent wheeled them yet, i liked them. i did need to do some custom cutting on one side of one of the pieces to fit around the drivers side of the differential. for the UCA mount on the axle side, i got a piece of 1/2" thinck x 4" wide stock that was like 30 something inches long, made a few cuts and bent it to shape using a press, then filled in the cuts with welding rod.

[mvusse]

are you still going to be on short arms?

 

Most likely. They have worked well for me so far and I'm not planning on lifting it any higher. Also don't like a radius arm style set up and to do true 3 or 4 link long arm the upper links would have to be mounted in the cab somewhere and go through the floor. Don't really want to do that.

[89eliminator]

are you still going to be on short arms?

 

and to do true 3 or 4 link long arm the upper links would have to be mounted in the cab somewhere and go through the floor. Don't really want to do that.

 

not true, mine arent.

 

anyways, i was just asking cause i don't remember if you had aftermarket uppers or not and the extra weight of the 60 could cause some havoc on the arms and mounts.

[mvusse]

Motion's adjustable lowers (by whoever made them), probably going to be replaced because the bushings fall apart after a while (RE used to have the same problem with their bushings) and Rock Krawler adjustable uppers using a rebuildable heim type joint on top and the stock bushings on the axle. Most of the force is on the lowers. With the factory support brackets I've never had a problem on that end. I have had to replace or reinforce the factory lower brackets on three separate axles now. I have found that a front locker helps prevent this because both sides of the axle are pulling themselves instead of one side having to be pushed causing the mount to buckle. Should not be an issue on the D60 as all the mounts are going to be 1/4".