Descision time!

[Kenosha Warrior]

Ive got a chance at a 1984 Grand Wagoneer. Its 2hrs away from me and would be my DD because the owner of the GW will either take the MJ as a trade OR Ill sell the MJ to pay for the G-Wag (he wants 1250 obo canadian, so I may offer $1100) I could get atleast $850-$900 canadian for the MJ. Its in great shape and will pass the safety now with a clean slate, same with emissions testing.

 

The Good for the Wag.

I want one badly. I love MJ's but my original Heep love was the Grand Wag from 'Urban Legends'

 

It fits more people

 

its 4x4.

 

rebuilt motor (360) and tranny (727) (dates and mileage to come)

 

It was a family DD so it wasn't abused.

 

The Bad:

 

its a v8 360

 

Its a 4x4

 

it fits more people

 

 

I'm 17, so the bad really is just because of the Insurance. If I keep the 360 tuned nicely, I can probably swing 12-15mpg.

 

 

 

The wag is in awesome shape, so it my MJ. Both are low to moderate with rust, wag owner says the tailgate needs a bit of work. Wag will pass safety no problem, same with the MJ. Any opinions? Its all here in Ontario. I want a G-Waggy so bad it hurts. I can forego bad fuel economy for no e-test.

 

Ill have pics and mileage ASAP.

[DirtyComanche]

I'd convert it to propane if I had one... At least then it's 10mpg of CHEAP fuel.

 

 

 

I dunno about your area, but they go lower than that here. But if it's mint, I guess it's a good deal. Oh, don't jump it. They have weak frames...

[feerocknok]

I dunno about your area, but they go lower than that here. But if it's mint, I guess it's a good deal. Oh, don't jump it. They have weak frames...

 

The price doesn't sound bad to me, doesn't sound great either. Shouldn't we not jump MJs due to frame strength?

[DirtyComanche]

They're a LOT stronger than a waggy frame.

 

 

People knock the unibody design, but it does do quite well. At least, when it comes to dealing with a loading from the seuspension - which they were engineered for. Slamming it on rocks will kill it fast in that the sheetmetal they're made of isn't really thick enough to withstand that.

 

 

But, IIRC, the waggy frames are a C channel design - which is really not very strong compared with the box style frame of a MJ. Although I could check that on the frame diagrams I have for them. Anyways, the FSJ guys are always bitching about how they bent their waggy/J-10 frames. Besides, I saw it happen. We taco'd one pretty good on a free waggy - and broke the transmission apart doing it.

[Kenosha Warrior]

This summer I'm cannabalizing an XJ to wheel. so The waggy may pull tow rig for the XJ but it'll be my DD. Propane may be an option. I may do the prop swap, what are parts availability and how hard would it be to do the 'pane swap, Scott?

 

 

its in good shape. Once I see some pics I may revise my price. But for a running, sh*t kickin' shape waggy for $1000-$1100 isn't too bad. Id probably get under there and box the frame with plate steel though. Wire wheel it and plate it, then undercoat it.

[DirtyComanche]

Propane may be an option. I may do the prop swap, what are parts availability and how hard would it be to do the 'pane swap, Scott?

 

 

I don't know what type of carb they used, but I'm almost tempted to say they put quadrajets on those engines. If not, it's a standard square bore setup. Either way, there's two routes...

 

 

Dual fuel -

 

This limits you to finding an Impco 300A mixer - which are quite commonly found in junkyards on dual fuel vehicles (look for work vans and work trucks). AFAIK they're all the same other than some updates over the years. They simply bolt to the top of the existing carb. You then need a lock-off valve for the gas line (electric). And you'll want an impco model E vapourizer/regulator with an electric lockoff valve. A tank and some liquid/vapour hose is all you need beyond that.

 

Straight propane -

 

Figure out if it's a standard square bore intake or the quadrajet style (big primaries, small secondaries). Then track down a mixer with the correct baseplate pattern. If you get the wrong one they make adapter plates for very little. Both Impco 425s and OHG 450s could be found with either base. Almost every propane V8 will have one or the other. The OHG 450s have a problem with richening up as they age but can be rebuilt to fix this. Again, a model E regulator is the best bet (they're also the most common), and you can use either a vacuum or electric lockoff valve. Add tank and a couple hoses.

 

 

You'll need to advance the timing a bunch - 10-15* IIRC.

 

 

If you want to do it, I'd look into the provincal inspection rules. Often they won't certifiy junkyard tanks unless they are re-tested. Which costs a few bucks. And often you can't get a fill without having proof of inspection (decal). As a tip - find a vehicle that had been inspected and steal the decal.

 

Also, to actually get it tuned to run correctly will require some professional help. But it doesn't take long for them to dial it in correctly.

[Eagle]

Do you use salt on the roads in your part of the rust belt? If there is even one SPEC of rust anywhere visible on that heap, put it on a lift somewhere and go over the frame with a magnifying glass, a small hammer, and a pick. Seriously. I used to have a full-size Cherokee, a few years older than what you're looking at. Awesome machine, but the frames have a regrettable tendency to disappear without notice.

 

Going back maybe three years or so, I stopped at my Jeep dealer to pick up some parts, and I was somewhat surprised to see a flatbed wrecker in the shop parking lot, loading a gorgeous Grand Wagoneer ONTO the truck. That was odd -- usually the wreckers drop vehicles off at the shop.

 

So while chatting with the parts guys, I asked what was the deal on the Grand Waggy and the flatbed. The answer was that it was brought in for a muffler, and when they put it on the lift it started to bend amidships. Closer inspection revealed that there was virtually no frame left. They were sending it to a specialty shop to weld in frame patches, but it was so far gone that the shop wasn't willing to assume the risk of driving it, nor would they assume the risk of allowing the owner to drive it off their property.

 

CHECK THE FRAME. CAREFULLY.

[Kenosha Warrior]

Eagle, Oh yeah. I'm going to go over the frame like mad. Ive seen people bondo FSJ frames to pass it off as good :(

[Oizarod115]

my brother had a blue/wood 1984 grand waggy 4x4 with the 360, probably the single coolest jeep ive ever been in.

 

i'd never sell my MJ for one, but if you want one that bad then go for it man,

 

they are nice. his was nice but the frame/brakes/EVERYTHING was rusted to hell.

[Kenosha Warrior]

my brother had a blue/wood 1984 grand waggy 4x4 with the 360, probably the single coolest jeep ive ever been in.

 

i'd never sell my MJ for one, but if you want one that bad then go for it man,

 

they are nice. his was nice but the frame/brakes/EVERYTHING was rusted to hell.

 

I fell in love with Jeep's after watching Urban legends and getting scared half to death, with the 4dr Brown Woody G-Wag. I laid eye's on my MJ (first one ever, too, I was a paperboy) I bought it and still want a FSJ, specifically a GWag.

 

 

I'm debating. Ill know tomorrow if I can afford it or not haha.

[Bonkers]

Don't do it.

 

Old GWs are insanely unreliable - the true product of 80s technology. I've had a J20, J10, CheroWT, Chero 4dr, and two GWs - every single one of them conked out before thier first oil change. If you are looking for something reliable you're not going to do better than the Mjs. A Grand Cherokee 6cyl is the ideal jeep choice if you MUST have back seats - a perfect blend of MPG and strenght. A cheap Xj can be worth its weight in gold too.

 

If you think an Mj tailgate is overpriced, trying to find a GW rear glass motor will run several hundred dollars. Side glass and the chrome trim aren't be made anymore so what is out there is all that is. And don't get me started on the miles and miles of vaccuum lines and emission controls. The best my second GW averaged was 11.112mpg - and thats all highway. The 360 was not known for economy. Because of the running price of steel lately you'll be hard pressed to find decent donor vehicles in junk yards.

 

Don't get me wrong, I loved my J-trucks - tank heavy and comfortable, but I would only recommend GWs for those with extensive 80s hack-n-play experience or the bankroll to buy a decent example (usually run about US$4000-13000.) They are not good play toys and will bleed you dry if you don't have good access to parts. At $1250 this sounds like it has rust isses or electrical headaches that the PO can't fix.

 

At 17 I think you'd lose a great beginners jeep and wind up with something beyond your means or needs.

[Eliminator89]

I would agree that a FSJ is not the vehicle for a 17 year old. They require maintenance and I mean MAINTENANCE. They are great vehicles but AMC was on its way down. The quality just isn't there. Things inproved somewhat for the last few years under Chryco but Chryco knew the vehicles were going to be discontinued so developement ceased after they made their intial changes.

 

If you decide to get it anyway, check the frame next to the gas tank. The gas tank skid plate coupled with the gas tank design (a bulge on the side that fit into the frame channel) trapped mud and moisture and the frames rotted terribly in that area because of that.

 

The carb would be a Motorcraft 2150 2bbl. A good carb as carbs go. The tranny is a Chryco 727, tranfercase is a NP229, front axle is D44, rear axle is likely an AMC model20 (round backside like a basketball, a good axle nonetheless), but could be a D44 (they went back to the D44 sometime around those years).

 

For info in the Waggy, go to the IFSJA. Good people that will welcome you and your questions and they have a wealth of FSJ knowledge there.