Eliminator89

The taillight screws are stripping out. I'm waiting to hear from a fellow who may want to buy the trucj as is.

Hate to do it but reality rears its ugly head. Rust, blown engine etc... How do I get the rear window out? I have pulled the outside seal off but not sure how to get the window out. Its a slider and I don't want it to go to scrap. I can't get the tailight screws out. I want to save them also but they're fighting me. Probably cut them off.

How many of these guys predicting the end of the world have IRAs?

Wherever you put the antenna, be sure to have a good ground. Check the match to the antenna with an SWR meter. A bad match can blow the finals in the radio. By "finals" I mean the power transisters. Over the years I've seen too many install an antenna without tuning it or at least checking the match and a week later, the radio is in the shop.

:) Enjoy that Mustang. I've had mine for 8 years now. Loved every minute of it. Taken it on two Power Tours, drive it all over the place. Going in for body work and paint ASAP. There are several great Mustang forums out here. Mustangsandmore and Vintage Mustangs are two good ones. Be careful buying parts for it. There's a LOT of shoddy parts from China.

"it is a true mustang because of the vin being a c-code and 5 lug bolt pattern" So, does this mean my T code, 4 lug Mustang is a fake? For 8 years I've been driving a Camaro with the wrong name on it? Someone did a LOT of weeeeird body work to this Camaro. Now I'm pissed....

Rod bearings were bad. Replaced them and my oil pressure came back up quite a bit (and for a short time, WAY UP). Actually, the mains were not great either but I was nearly broke then. I felt I needed to do something about the noisy engine and that was about all I could do at the time. Changing the rod bearings was relatively simple and certainly helped. The oil pressure problem never happened again. I was just talking to a friend about it and got to wondering if it was the filter's fault or if it might have been something else. I didn't realize the oil pump pressure relief valve could cause the problem but that must have been what happened.

Read them when I was a kid (too long ago). Definitly going to see it. With today's CGI, I like the idea of bringing these comics to the big screen. Doesn't always work (Hulk) but most have been pretty good.

I've been thinking about a mishap I had a while back with the oil pressure in my truck. 1989 4.0 I had installed new rod bearings to regain some oil pressure while setting aside money for a complete rebuild. I had to do something as the truck was my daily driver. Everything went fine. Fresh oil and a NAPA Gold filter. oil pressure was definitly better. Drove home (60 miles) and around this small city and to work a couple of times. No problems, good oil pressure. A few days later, I started it up in the morning and drove around the corner and heard something hissing. Leaving the truck idling at a stop sign, I got out expecting to find a tire going down. It was coming from the engine compartment though. I popped the hood and there was oil everywhere. It was squirting out at the filter/adapter interface. I shut it down immediately. I saw a trail of oil down the block. I followed it and saw it started back at my house. I pushed the truck back home (slightly down hill luckily). I found the oil filter blown up like a balloon. The oil pressure sender was also destroyed by this. I figured the oil filter had failed. Is this the likely scenario? Seems the oil would have gone to the filter and been stopped right there. With nowhere to go, it blew the seal due to the extreme pressure. For this to be right, I think the oil must enter the filter through the holes around the center mounting hole and then into the engine through the center mounting hole. I replaced the oil and filter and everything was good from then on. Any thoughts on this odd occurrance? BTW, the NAPA store where I bought everything did offer replace the filter (to that, I said no thanks) and the oil (I did take that). I've been using Mobil1 filters since then.

Never let the truth get in the way of a good story.

I had an overheating problem with my Comanche. Turned out o lot of the fins between the tubes in the radiator had rotted away.

I figured they were late for a party and his husband was nagging him the whole way, but then I read some of the replies and realized it was a rally.

If this "12 step program" involves buying 12 Jeeps, enroll me now! I'm nearly half way done already! No, wait a mintue, I AM half way done! Losing count over here. 64 Gladiator 65 Gladiator 81 J20 88 Comanche 89 Comanche 90 Cherokee Only 6 more to go...

New TPS did the trick. Lesson learned.

I get 20 with my '89 4.0/5 speed 2 wheeldrive 'manche. Mostly highway driving.

Just recently bought a '90 4.0/auto Cherokee. Seriously soiled engine. Engine degreaser + power washer = no shift. :cry: Have read through the search feature that I probably wrecked the TPS. Also read that unplugging the TCU fuse would enable me to shift manually. No joy. Tranny still won't shift working the lever manually. Then read that it won't shift until higher rpms are reached. Is that right? Have a new TPS but won't have a meter to properly adjust until tomorrow. Will install new TPS when I get the meter. I have the FSM for the '89 model year. Should it still be applicable for the '90? Opinions?

Gas tanks make lousy axle bump stops.

You could cut a section from a fiberglass topper and insert it into the Cherokee roof. Also, some mini-van conversions could probably donate a roof section. If you can find one in a junkyard. Another possibility is to find an old Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser wagon and take the raised portion of its roof. I think the fiberglass topper section is the way to go.

With no differential between the front and rear axles, something would likely break. When you turn a corner, the front wheels drive a slightly larger arc than the rear wheels. They must turn slightly faster. The full-time transfercase has a differential built into it to allow this speed difference between the front and rear axles. A part-time case has the front and rear axles locked together (when in 4 wheel drive) with gears. With the axles turning at different speeds, there will be binding in the transfercase. If that pressure is not relieved, something will break. Driving a part-time case in mud, snow, on gravel, loose dirt or sand works because the slippery or loose surface allows one axle or the other to slip a tire to relieve the pressure. Dry pavement or a hard surface with good traction doesn't. A full-time case in "Lock" has that same problem. The axles are locked together in the case, bypassing the differential. A full-time case in "Lock" is for slippery surfaces only.

I have a 23 spline, 4x4 AX15. Will a transfercase from behind an auto bolt up? I was thinking they were the same but while looking for some on a search site, they had seperate searches for auto trannies and manuals. Now I'm not sure.

1J7FT66L4KL****** '89 4.0 mpi 5speed ax15 2wd short bed Eliminator My FSM for the '89 model tells me this is what I have. Here's more from the FSM. 1st digit: Country 1=US, 2=Canada 2nd digit: letter J=Jeep 3rd Digit: number for Vehicle type, 7=truck (4=MPV, 6=incomplete=cab and chassis?) 4th digit: letter for GVRW, F=4001-5000 (E=3001-4000, G=5001-6000, H=6001-7001) 5th digit: letter for vehicle line, T=Comanche 2wd (J=Comanche 4wd) 6th digit: number for series, 6=Eliminator 1="S" 2=Base 3=Pioneer/Islander 4=Sahara 5=Laredo/Grand 7=Limited 7th digit: number for body type, 6=2dr pickup 8th digit: letter for Engine, L=4.0 E=2.5 9th digit: check digit 10th digit: letter for year, K=1989 11th digit: letter for plant, L=Toledo #1 (J=Brampton, P=Toledo #2)

I don't have a 23 spline input for the '88 tcase. I'll have to get one. Anyone have one to sell? What I have is a recently purchased 4wd AX15 (unsure of the year but its from a 4.0 MJ) sitting in the garage and the '88 MJ that I have yet to get home. It'll be two weeks before I can begin tearing into the '88. I have to leave for Nebraska this Monday for two weeks of cellphone base equipment work. I'm going to have both, the tranny and the tcase rebuilt or do them myself before they go into my truck. If there aren't any expensive specialty tools needed for a rebuild, I'll do them with my brother's help. He's a bit more experienced than myself but I'm no newby to mechanics. I've never done a tcase but have done a simple manual tranny before. Anyway, not knowing what I'm doing has never stopped me before. We do have a nice shop available to work in. I also have the factory shop manuals for the truck including the AX15 supplement. They are just at the shop (60 miles away) right now so I can't look up some of the info I'm asking about here.

I have an '89 4.0 AX15 2wd swb MJ. Just bought an '88 MJ lwb 4.0 BA10 231. I am planning to install the BA10 tcase on a 4wd AX15. As I understand things, BA10 has 21 spline output, the AX15 (4wd) has 23. Can I swap the tcase 21 spline input with a 23 spline input? Know that I have not yet had a 231 apart and don't know the configuration for the input. Does the tranny output shaft slip into a gear in the tcase? If so, I'm thinking I can have a 23 spline gear installed when I have the tcase rebuilt. Also, the AX15 I have has the dreaded internal slave. I'll search here for info about changing to an external slave. Anyone have a link to this swap? Will I be able to use the '88 front driveshaft?

All better. Bought a new 100 amp'er this morning, got it installed. Having a cigar to celebrate.. :chillin: I'll have the old one rebuilt and stick it on the shelf.

Right Joel. No lift, no big tires, no hot engine, no real off-roading. Just want to make the truck 4 wheeldrive. We get good snowfalls around here in winter and I need to get to work, Work is 20 miles away along state roads, county blacktops and an interstate. Fulltime 4 wheel drive is advantageous. Friends and family are up to 100 miles away. I'm not going to worry about locating an axle with the big u-joints but its nice to know what I am looking at and what I might want to avoid.