Eliminator89

Alternator took a dump this morning. :cry: No time now to take mine to the rebuilder. "Hello, AutoZone?"

Thanks guys. All this helps. I emailed the guy for clarification of what he has. Eagle, I'm not an off-roader. I wouldn't mind driving the woods to a camp site but rocks and rugged trails are not my cup of tea. So those bigger u-joints will not be the deciding factor if I by a certain axle or not. If I find an axle with them, I'll get it but I'm not going to search the country for them. Looks like I just need to avoid the CV joint axles and the disconnect axles and I'll be just fine. An ABS axle should be good also, I'll just have a few parts on it that I won't be using.

How do I recognize a ZJ axle?

Ok, bringing this back with a few questions. I have located a '93 front axle locally. The fellow tells me the CV boots are ripped. CVs on a '93 axle? I thought only the earlier axles used CVs. Am I wrong on that? Is he wrong on the year of his axle? Or did the axles use boots with the u-joints and he is just confused about it having CVs when it really doesn't?

The rebuilder is a local fellow and I have known him for better than 10 years. I have more faith in his rebuilds than anything other than brand new. He really is very good. He knows how I like my stuff done and if there's anything amiss with the parts, he'll tell me if going new is better. Looks like I won't have time to check it out 'til Sunday. I have to work tomorrow. The local flood has us VERY busy. Getting power back on for folks is more important than my lazy alternator.

It just recently began doing this. I can see the wipers slowing down as the voltage gets lower and lower. Its just not putting out the amps it used to. It used to keep up just fine. First thing is to check the rating and also the connections while I'm under there. If cleaning the connections doesn't help, then off to the rebuilder with it for a check up.

Just checked out the link Roadless offered. Its ok but here's a better one. http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/Setting_SWR.htm There's a LOT of GOOD info on those pages.

Well I have the 4.0 A/C Fog lights and bed light. No electric windows or locks. I'll have to see if the part number is readable and check that. I may not need a new one, I have to check the connections for corrosion first. It worked fine but now with the lights on, the wipers running and the heater blowing the voltage keeps dropping. It isn't putting out much. It catches back up as I turn stuff off. I was just looking on car-part.com and came up with about 8 different ratings and had no idea what mine might be so I thought I would ask.

How do I determine the amperage rating of my alternator?

Went to a local (if 80 miles away is local) salvage yard that has a fair selection of Jeeps and found some sheetmetal I need to repair the bed. Only 3 Comanches but none had a good rear wheel arch. I got the lower section of the bed side from the wheelwell to the front of the bed. The other piece is a door skin. That metal will repair the area above the wheelwell arch. They had no gas tank. I'll be ordering a new gas tank this week. Forgot to look inside the Cherokees for the add-on console cup holders.

The death of a full size Jeep is a sad thing. My '73 J-4000 died of terminal rust. I still have the engine though. It will live on in a '64 J-200 Gladiator.

Thanks JeeperJohn. I was going to try the screw and rubber washer method first. Gotta get the tank out before I'll know what the damage to the tank is. I have 1/2 tank of gas to burn first. By then, I'll be heading to Nebraska for work. Probably be there for a week or two. Then I can get to work on the tank, IF I don't get sent to North Dakota right away. That job looks like about a month and a half. It might be sometime in Sept before I can do it. Of course, with all the out-of-state work, I'll have plenty of money to just buy a new tank. 8)

Well, I filled the tank to 3/4 full a few days ago and thats when it leaked. The truck had been laid up with a broken engine for 2 years. Back then, it was fine. When I put the gas in just recently, it was the first time since the engine blew that I had that much gas in there. I had been planning to run over to a city 30 miles away so I took the Comanche rather than just let the gas drip out onto the street. When It got down to about 1/2 tank, the leak stopped. So, I don't think it can be either the fill or vent hose. It'll probably be a couple weeks before I can get the tank out and (hopefully) repair it. A friend has a nice shop with a lift so I plan to work on it over there and he has a couple cars in there now and by the time there's room for me, I'll be off to Nebraska for a couple weeks. This will have to wait a while, meantime I'll keep to 1/2 tank at a time.

rockhardzj, please explain. I'm thinking I've got a rust hole. If JB Weld or something similar (any suggestions?) doesn't seal it, I'll be replacing it. There is a salvage yard somewhat near here that has a large selection of Jeeps of all kinds. If there are no Comanches, I'll have to come up with an alternative. What is it about the Cherokee tanks that renders them unsuitable for a Comanche?

:cry: Unfortunatly, my gas is coming from the frame side. I'm gonna have to pull the tank and see whats going on. The fuel line area is dry as a bone with no evidence of leakage. It would have been so easy...well, except for the rust...

Thanks for the ideas guys. I haven't poked my eyes under there yet. I just drove it around 'til it stopped leaking. I'll get under there tomorrow and see whats going on. Today, it was working on the old Mustang day. Ya know, It would be nice to have a day when work on the vehicles isn't needed. Do those kinds of days ever happen? I haven't even washed the truck since I got it going....I'm kinda afraid of what will fall off....

"Clik-clik-clik-clik up through the gears, and one more click to lock the torque converter." Oh, that must be fun. then its click-click-click-click down again at every stop? With some more work, it seems you could build a floor shift with optical switches to act like a 4 speed manual. A relatively simple circuit to shift the tranny, in 4th, the circuit also locks the converter. Take a signal from the throttle position sensor to unlock the converter when you get off the gas. Should I go into business?

Abandon all hope, ye who enter here... Welcome to the sickness...uh...I mean...hobby! Yes! Hobby! Can't help with the quarter panels parts beyond saying I have been searching, asked here, have found none other than junkyard parts.

Oh please God, let it be an O-ring..... :bowdown:

Just developed a leak in the tank. 3/4 full, leaks. 1/2 full no leak. So, do Cherokee tanks fit? Probably going to be easier to find a Cherokee tank than a Comanche tank. Off to car-part.com.

And I'm heading to Nebraska for a few weeks of work...Maybe I'll pass you on the highway.

Well, I'm certainly no expert at suspensions but the only 1/4 elliptic suspension I've seen used the springs as a link and the other set of links where angled similar to his the locate the axle. I see now that he does have shackles on those springs. I wonder why he mounts his suspension to the cab sheetmetal when he has what looks like a nice stout crossmember right there.

His angles are off quite a bit at the link ends. Usually, your 1/4 elliptics are one set of links. What he has here is a 6 link suspension. Never seen nor ever even heard of that before. Doesn't mean it won't work though. Using the cab as a suspension mounting location is a different idea. Hope the sheetmetal is up to the task.

Hijack: Tell me more about this sound bar. I've never seen one. OEM? Aftermarket? Where do I look for one?

HF ham, no problem. Buy radio, an antenna, an automatic antenna tuner, mount them and off you go. ;)