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Stuff to do before paint??


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First post on here. I have a 1988 Pioneer 4.0 4X4 that I "traded" for about 2 months ago. I have been reading this site getting ideas and help, and appreciate all I have learned already, but have a kinda broad question now. My truck has rust on the top of the cab and really bad on the hood so I'm getting it painted in about a month. What stuff should I do BEFORE the paint job? I have ordered a FEY rear bumper to replace my rotting from the inside stock, my truck has a PO installed tow hitch that is welded to the frame and bumper mounts, so hoping the FEY will go on the OEM mounts and fit over the hitch with minimal alterations. I have installed tow hooks on the front. I would like to find a lighted license plate holder that I could bolt or have welded on the tailgate that would fold down (or up?) when the gate is down to stay legal (I also got a spare tire mount (since the original is lost to the hitch) for the hitch that totally covers the license plate), does anyone know of anything like I'm talking about? My rear slider window is peeling trim type stuff from the top on the inside, are there replacement channels available? What about the doors, I would like to have foldout vent windows where I now have fixed ones, can I put a door from an XJ on here or were there MJs with these? What am I not thinking of that it makes more sense to fix before the paint job? Also still debating color to go with, right now its the metallic looking light blue, either back to that (not so crazy about it), white (the interior wouldn't look too stupid that way), or black (glossy, not hot rod, was thinking aobut that until I saw a pic on here of of one and decided against that, sorry to whoever's that is, but it's not for me). So, any thoughts? Thanks in advance for all your help!

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The front doors off a 4 door xj will work up to 96? with out modification. Lots of people even put 97 doors on them but i think they redo the strike.

 

Before you paint you should probably debate if you plan to put bigger tires etc as if you end up cutting out your fenders.

 

 

If you plan to remove your fender flares to paint, plan on breaking every bolt that holds them on and having to replace them. They were welded to a metal bracket that is inside the flare and then go through the quarter panel and are exposed on the inside of the wheel well so most all are totally rusted. So you may consider taping and not pulling, getting different ones and trim quarter panel now, or plan to fish bolts through and afix them some how.

 

alot of the window gaskets and channels are available by the foot at most auto part restore places, some napa. Also team cherokee had some. Also check out quadratec.

 

as far as painting goes if you're wanting it to look more stock and not planing to do a complete tear down paint it something close to the inside of the door jamb. I prefer to paint (plans in the works) mine as close to a stock color as possible that way if i get in an accident it's easier to find a close match, I also plan to go with rustoleum and will spray with a gun, that way if i get scrapes or gashes i can have a quick touch up for $4 with a rattle can.

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So what's the deal with the strike on 97+ doors?

 

 

As i recall i think it's a different style or in a different location... Maybe I'm wrong, but i though I'd seen someone post a picture and it was different.

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Also a good build thread that has a new paint job is rockMJ's he just posted a full start to finish build thread of what looks like a year or more worth of work. it's all pictures of what he's done gives you ideas as to what to expect for an awesome paint job. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=35568

 

 

 

re 97 + door maybe it's the hinges are different... Either way somthing prevents them from just going on with out modification..

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On the 97+ doors - The hinge difference is not an issue since the newer doors will bolt right up to your original hinges. And the newer doors use a loop-type striker held on with two bolts, while the older doors use a post-type striker, which uses a single bolt.

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On the 97+ doors - The hinge difference is not an issue since the newer doors will bolt right up to your original hinges. And the newer doors use a loop-type striker held on with two bolts, while the older doors use a post-type striker, which uses a single bolt.

 

 

Thanks for confirming my memory.

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On the 97+ doors - The hinge difference is not an issue since the newer doors will bolt right up to your original hinges. And the newer doors use a loop-type striker held on with two bolts, while the older doors use a post-type striker, which uses a single bolt.

 

 

 

Thanks.

 

I never really paid attention.

 

Change the latch or the strike?

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On the 97+ doors - The hinge difference is not an issue since the newer doors will bolt right up to your original hinges. And the newer doors use a loop-type striker held on with two bolts, while the older doors use a post-type striker, which uses a single bolt.

 

 

 

Thanks.

 

I never really paid attention.

 

Change the latch or the strike?

 

Change the striker. Reuse the bolt hole from the old striker for the top bolt on the new striker. Drill a hole for the bottom bolt and put a nut insert into the metal.

 

For the paint process remove as much as possible from the truck. The less on it means the cheaper it will be to get painted. Labor costs for parts removal is one of the biggest costs.(Especially on older vehicles with seized bolts!)

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Thanks for all the responses, I am searching local JYs for some doors and maybe a tailgate too, mine is pretty beat up around the bottom. If I'm even thinking about doing a lift in the future should I go ahead and trim the front fenders & panels before the paint?

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Thanks for all the responses, I am searching local JYs for some doors and maybe a tailgate too, mine is pretty beat up around the bottom. If I'm even thinking about doing a lift in the future should I go ahead and trim the front fenders & panels before the paint?

 

 

Depends on desired tire size, lift, and the intensity of your wheeling.

 

You can run 31" tires with a minimal lift w/ minimal off roading.

31" with 4" lift running aftermarket upper and lower control arms in the lift provides decent flex and lift, no trimming.

 

People run upto 33" with out trimming depending on the lift design. with xj's so i assume same with mj

 

much bigger tires than that and you're trimming wider for turning or taller for clearance even if you lift higher. The flip side is you could always go bigger tires and lift and then just adjust your bump stops so that there's no chance to catch a fender and then really only trim for width. All non-oem fender flares require triming; rusty's off road makes some, bushwacker, napierproducts makes some. Each brand has a little different amount to trim. But i've yet to find a set that i'm willing to spend $400 on. Lots of people will trim the front fender flat with the bottom of the head light bevel like the 97's. some do the same on the rear and cut the bed near the fold line.

 

Best suggestion, browse around and find a picture of what you're wanting your's too look like lift wise and find out what they're running.

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