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Bed Prep


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So I got this bed from the JY several weeks ago..

BUT a few bolts broke off in the process :fs2:

Also it has some rust where the flares attach, oh yeah no flares atm.

So in preparation for paint I want to do anything that will bring the cost down when I take it in, along with removing the broken bolts and rust proofing so if you guys have any tips and tricks as to what to do and how to do it I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Pics:

 

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To explain-

 

After I got my MJ I went shopping for a paint job, estimates begin at $2500 and move from there......average is $3500-$4000. I'm poor and I can't afford that.

 

So I shopped material prices, right about $400 for supplies including grits, primers, paint and base-coat clear-coat. Will be the same color but pearl.

 

I'll need to do mine in sections, bed, then front clip, then cab with doors. Reason for this is time and the lack of a full spray booth. I have a shop that will spray my final clear-coat if I cannot get it 100% without flaws from dust or other contamination. I plan on 3-4 coats clear with wet sanding between coats anyway.

 

I have air, DA, angle grinders, wheels, welders, cup guns........and more time than money. It's been years since that last car I painted but it will come back to me.

 

It's work and it's money and if I pay for something I want it right. Some folks are happy with rattle can paint jobs.....not me.

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Okay now i understand, yall had me confused there for a second.

I don't plan on paying more than 1000 for the Entire paint job.

I got a guy i know; he quoted me 1500 with all repairs but at that point I had a crooked-@$$ bed and dented up doors and fenders

Really I just want to know what to do to the bed to make it last and if anyone had any good ways to get those broken bolts out.

 

I went through hell to get this sob out of the Jy and back to my neck of the woods so this one is going to be the one :rant:

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I had a bed I removed from a '89 MJ. Twisted 5 of the 6 bolts off removing it. Set it upside down and soaked the broken bolts with Liquid Wrench for a month. Using a EZ out and heat I got 1 bolt out. On the other 4 I drilled them out. Made up 4 nut plates and welded them in place. PITA but it worked.

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I had a bed I removed from a '89 MJ. Twisted 5 of the 6 bolts off removing it. Set it upside down and soaked the broken bolts with Liquid Wrench for a month. Using a EZ out and heat I got 1 bolt out. On the other 4 I drilled them out. Made up 4 nut plates and welded them in place. PITA but it worked.

 

Good to know, I'm hoping there's going to be an easier solution but i really need to turn it over to get a better look, ill do that tmro and post up pics of the underside

 

thanks :thumbsup:

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To answer your question directly, yes there is a lot you can do-

 

Get the bed up on saw horses so you can work the entire bed comfortably.

I would first wash the entire bed and degrease.

Remove filler tube mouth and clean inside fuel door thoroughly with denatured alcohol.

Use 4" angle grinder and wire wheel and remove lose paint and surface rust from floor of bed and wheel well humps.

Same with inside of tailgate.

(this gets the bulk of the dirty work out of the way and from contaminating the outside of the bed)

Use Scotchbrite pads to hand sand the inside walls of bed, use wire wheel and DA where necessary.

Use air to blow out debris, use denatured alcohol to wipe down the entire inside of bed.

Spray entire inside of bed and inside of tailgate with a catalyzed primer- http://directbuyautobodysupply.com/AWSC ... /6/Primers

Spray 2-3 wet coats of primer surfacer, let dry, you are now done with the inside.

 

I would use wire wheel at any rust spots such as above wheel wells to get the bulk of lose rust removed.

DA the entire outside. Choose your grit and remember that what you do here will determine the quality of the finish. If you are going to take the entire existing finish down I would start with 150 grit. Change your sandpaper out frequently. Go back and work your way back to 180 then 220. Keep the DA moving and feather out any remaining layers of paint and primer.

Mark all your repair areas with permanent marker, mark ALL defects for repair, it's the little dings that really show up after paint.

Make repairs and sand out.

Blow off and wipe down with denatured alcohol.

Prime with catalized primer, 2-3 wet coats.

While primer is wet look down the side of panels for defects in repairs. Let dry.

Readdress repairs. Spot prime repairs and analyze again, address again if necessary. Spot prime with NON-catalyst lacquer primer.

Spot putty if necessary.

Let dry.

Prime again the entire outside of bed with lacquer primer, a non-catalyst hi-build primer, let dry. Wet sand again. This coat of primer will help fill in any sanding marks and once wet sanded will provide a very smooth surface to apply your finish coat.

 

Bear in mind metal once bare will flash in about 30-60 minutes depending on humidity. Point is don't sand to bare metal then let set for several days until you get back to it.....you'll need to sand it out again.

 

I personally would pay little attention to the finish quality of the inside of the bed as I will have mine sprayed with a bed line from LineX.

 

My guess is there is about 8-12 hours worth of work there....maybe more but I can't tell from the pics.

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To answer your question directly, yes there is a lot you can do-

 

Get the bed up on saw horses so you can work the entire bed comfortably.

I would first wash the entire bed and degrease.

Remove filler tube mouth and clean inside fuel door thoroughly with denatured alcohol.

Use 4" angle grinder and wire wheel and remove lose paint and surface rust from floor of bed and wheel well humps.

Same with inside of tailgate.

(this gets the bulk of the dirty work out of the way and from contaminating the outside of the bed)

Use Scotchbrite pads to hand sand the inside walls of bed, use wire wheel and DA where necessary.

Use air to blow out debris, use denatured alcohol to wipe down the entire inside of bed.

Spray entire inside of bed and inside of tailgate with a catalyzed primer- http://directbuyautobodysupply.com/AWSC ... /6/Primers

Spray 2-3 wet coats of primer surfacer, let dry, you are now done with the inside.

 

I would use wire wheel at any rust spots such as above wheel wells to get the bulk of lose rust removed.

DA the entire outside. Choose your grit and remember that what you do here will determine the quality of the finish. If you are going to take the entire existing finish down I would start with 150 grit. Change your sandpaper out frequently. Go back and work your way back to 180 then 220. Keep the DA moving and feather out any remaining layers of paint and primer.

Mark all your repair areas with permanent marker, mark ALL defects for repair, it's the little dings that really show up after paint.

Make repairs and sand out.

Blow off and wipe down with denatured alcohol.

Prime with catalized primer, 2-3 wet coats.

While primer is wet look down the side of panels for defects in repairs. Let dry.

Readdress repairs. Spot prime repairs and analyze again, address again if necessary. Spot prime with NON-catalyst lacquer primer.

Spot putty if necessary.

Let dry.

Prime again the entire outside of bed with lacquer primer, a non-catalyst hi-build primer, let dry. Wet sand again. This coat of primer will help fill in any sanding marks and once wet sanded will provide a very smooth surface to apply your finish coat.

 

Bear in mind metal once bare will flash in about 30-60 minutes depending on humidity. Point is don't sand to bare metal then let set for several days until you get back to it.....you'll need to sand it out again.

 

I personally would pay little attention to the finish quality of the inside of the bed as I will have mine sprayed with a bed line from LineX.

 

My guess is there is about 8-12 hours worth of work there....maybe more but I can't tell from the pics.

 

 

Thank you that is exactly what I needed :bowdown:

- the pictures actually make it look worse than it actually is, when I get it off the ground I will take some better ones

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Keep in mind that most MJs rot from the inside out. This results in what appears to be minor rust bubbling above the rear flare. Once you start peeling the rust and paint away from the exterior surface, you will more than likely find more holes than you expected. If your bed has not yet rotted from the inside out, make sure to clean and seal the 'shelf' created by the inner fender, particularly where it meets the bedside. This is ground zero for road debris to accumulate over the years.

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