88MJNC Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 4 weeks ago dropped truck off the 1st mopar dealer (near work) for a no crank but turn over issue, They advised fuel pump was bad and wiring harness needed to be redone at the bypass. Week later they tell me it is good to go with no problems. Went to pickup the truck from dealer and wouldn't start still a no crank issue still. They check and tell me the fuel pump they installed was bad. Replace same day and back running. Get truck home the next morning when to fill up the truck with gas and gas starts leaking out around fuel tank. Tow to 2nd mopar dealer( near house) they advise the gasket to the fuel tank was pinched replaced picked truck up and drove home work for one afternoon. Next morning truck would turn over strong but still would not crank and run. Towed back to 2nd dealer they advise me that the have no injector pulse but when the take brake cleaner and spry into intake hose the truck will fire right up and stay running great until they turn the truck off then they must repeat this process again to get the truck to crank and run. Anyone ran into this before any help would be great. So far the CPS has been replaced along with fuel pump and the wiring harness has be reapired. The Mopar dealer is somewhat stupped and has contacted several other place with no luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 2.5 or 4.0.... auto or stick. A little more info would be helpful. Where in NC are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88MJNC Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 88 4.0L renix 4x4 Greenville nc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Show them this? Or do it yourself. Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before. Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, and the ECU travel the path through the C101. The C101 is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time. Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth. If you have a small pick or dental tool tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter. Apply a true dielectric grease, not the stuff that came with your brake pads, to the connection and bolt it back together. Revised 11-29-2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88MJNC Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 The C101 has been bypassed by the dealer not sure when it was orginally done but the wires where redone about 2 weeks ago. Talked to the dealer today and they said they are talking with a engineer with chrysler for some help and feedback everyone at the shop and near by shops are scratching there heads. :doh: :help: Its sad cause this truck is in such great shape and a head turner when on the road and lately in the shop everyone states how nice it is i have told them it might look good but it doesnt run which is no good for me. Sucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88MJNC Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 Dealership called today and said crank sensor or the computer. Told them to do the crank sensor again this would be the third CPS (2 mopar,and 1 NAPA) As far as the computer it will run about 600.00 for new one is there another ave to take maybe used one or do i just bight the bullet. The only problem is once it is installed its mine so if it doesn't fix the problem i will have 2500 in a truck that doesn't run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Auto or stick? I have a computer I will sell you for $50. have both auto and manual. You should do this work yourself. it's not hard, the computer is 3 8mm bolts and a couple plugs after removing 7 screws to take the knee board off the dash. the CPS is two bolts in a somewhat hard but not impossible place to access, and one connector. My bet is that they installed the CPS and didn't make sure it wasn't laying on the exhaust manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88MJNC Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 The truck is a 88 4.0L Auto. I have replaced one CPS on this truck the one from NAPA not hard at all. Just can't seem to pinpoint why it will not stay reliable. Every couple days or weeks it does the same thing. So that lead me someone else. Wish i could have a commanche club meet at my house and pay for beer, food and all the fishing u could stand to get this thing back on the road to be a RELIABLE pickup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 If you buy that computer for $50 I might be able to stop by, my girlfriend lives in SPartanburg and go there from time to time, we could work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 First, swap the fuel pump relay out with the one for the AC. That's what stopped mine before i got it. (ended up at the auction where I bought it) Ground wire on the engine block is next. Possibly internal break in the ignition slider. Easily tested with a new switch plugged in and a screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88MJNC Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 One reason i haven't worked on it myself and let the dealer worry about it was I had a little baby girl. Just wish i could get the comanche running to take her around in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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