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Project Trail MJunk


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Uh... Really doubtful.

 

Although... I used to have a TJ with the standard 93" wheelbase. Now... with a short arm 5 or so inch lift (specifically rear) and a locker you can pull a front tire off the ground pretty easily. The reason is the control arm angles get really, really steep causing the COG to be placed really far back on the chassis and causing crazy amounts of lift. This combined with a locker and turning will cause a tire to come off the ground.

 

For example... if you are turning left really quickly (so the locker stays engaged) from a dead stop the left front tire would come off the ground.

 

Now... with long arms (better control arm angles) this doesn't occur on the same TJ with the same lift height.

 

Now, how could this apply to a MJ? I don't think it could. The leaf springs are flat so they provide no crazy center of gravity changes like the TJ described above. The three link in no way could contribute to lifting.

 

So, in a nutshell... Could it happen on some badly setup vehicles? Yes. Could it happen on a MJ. I so no freakin way.

 

:cheers:

 

thanks I'm gonna go with Rk cuz the price is good and it looks very beefy, btw the guy that told me that was the guy that designed RE drop brackets(I'm don't really belive him) and i think he said that to try and convince me to buy a custom setup from him which he only wants around 2k for

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More progress today. Got everything under the front buttoned up except the axleshafts. I stuck the old ones back in so I could set everything up. I didn't bother bolting the calipers back on until I swap the shafts again in case you are wondering why they are just hanging there.

 

Here is a side shot...

 

sideview.jpg

 

Here is a view of the control arms and their ground clearance. I like!

 

side1.jpg

 

Here is the drivers side shot of the control arms...

 

controlarm.jpg

 

And finally a pic from the front. I put a Big Daddy's tie rod on too. Also worth mentioning is the track bar and drop bracket which I also ordered through Rock Krawler. Nice stuff!

 

frontaxle1.jpg

 

I've got a few things to button up in the front but it's pretty much done. I'll be moving on to the rollcage next.

 

:cheers:

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I got the cage done today. The cage wasn't too bad. Trying to fit a 50" bench seat in between a 48" rollcage took 4 hours. I had to completely take it apart piece by piece and re-assemble it in the MJ in a different order than how it came apart. What a pain in the you know what!

 

anyway... here's the pics of the cage...

 

cage2.jpg

 

cage1.jpg

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Oh... I also got to meet CEThomas and his son today. They came over to pick up my buckets and brackets and they ended up buying a couple other odds and ends off me. It was was a pleasure to meet you guys!

 

I'm also leaving for Florida Monday morning so there will be no progress to report until I get back the following week. I'm taking my notebook computer and I have internet access in my room down there so I'll be checking in periodically all week. :brows:

 

:cheers:

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guessin ya don't need to see the gauges :P or ever remove/add anything to the dash again?

 

It's a trail Jeep (as the title states), I could care less. I'm much more concerned with safety. But since you brought it up... actually when I'm sitting in it I can see all of the guages except the top half of the oil pressure needle and whatever the other one is up top opposite it. If I duck my head an inch or two I can see it all. I suppose if I just drove mine as a daily driver it would be a big problem. But why would I put a rollcage in a daily driver? :nuts:

 

I'm pretty satisfied with the way most of it came out. It could use some more triangulation in the b hoop and in the halo but... I figure with the added rigidity of the body itself it should handle a pretty good roll without out crushing. There is no room to put anything else behind the seat (there is a crossbar behind the seat in the b hoop) and I don't know if I want to put anything in the halo yet.

 

Anyone have an opinion on adding any more tube and where?

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I can't see if you ran a tube underneath to your frame, I would suggest that. I also would suggest a front windshield bar in the middle, but I know due to legality of blocking vision that is unreasonable. I also suggest that you, if you havent allready, build your seat frames into the cage. and make it all rigid, @$$ well as some race style seats and at least a 4 point harness.

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Now I am confused here... I know that when dealing with full framed vehicles where the body is seperated from the chassis with bushings (Like a wrangler or CJ) that tying your seats into the chassis when the cage is tied into the chassis is pretty much mandatory. But technically my seats, cage and chassis are all tied together by the unibody thus not needing additional seat brackets. Wouldn't it just be redundant and added effort, weight and money for what minimal benefit?

 

As for the seats... I am using a bench seat so I can bring my two sons along on wheeling trips. There are three seat belts. Granted they are not as restrictive as harnesses but will hold a person in if the vehicle flops. I typically make the boys get out whenever I am attempting an obsticle that has the potential of rollover anyway.

 

I think the thing to remember is that this is just a trail Jeep. It isn't going to see any insane trails. Most of the trails we run are family style trails with the occasional tough spot.

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The reason why I say add a seat frame that is mounted to the cage is it is basically stamped steel and sheetmetal that is holding the seat in place.

 

As for puttin git to the frame, I would hate to see a hrad roll that could push the cage through the sheetmetal floor. On a soft flop I bent one of my door bars, that is why I am rethinking my cage design, and am adding more stuff inside... just added insurance that I might be able to walk away from that hard or multiple roll

 

 

As for the seats, since you make them get out on the insane stuff, and you feel safe with it the way it is... I say go for it.

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The b hoop sits right on top of the unibody frame structure so I doubt it would get pushed down all the way through the rail. The front legs do sit outside the rail a bit but the plate they sit on is half way across the rail.

 

It's not ideal by any means but I figure it has to be enough to at least decrease the likely hood of the roof completely caving in on me.

 

It definately isn't built to sustain multiple rolls like a comp vehicle would take it's more like insurance if I do happen to roll it. although... I'll do everything in my power to avoid rolling it even if it means taking a strap or taking a bypass. Again... it's just a trail Jeep.

 

My plan is to keep it paint side up for as long as I own it. Let's hope so!

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If it was my Jeep, with all of my web-wheeling experience, I think the only change I would make to the cage is at least a crossbar on the b-hoop.

Although my truck is a DD, my father strongly suggests that I add an interior rollcage to the point that he may financially back it. I wheel the truck as hard as I can, and accidents happen. A tree saved my last truck from going into multiple rolls and my MJ doesn't need the same fate.

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There is a seat back bar in the b hoop. It runs from one side of the b hoop to the other right behind the seat.

 

Is that what you were saying it needs? Or something else?

I was thinking to run a bar across the B-hoop where the diagnol bars meet it. Basically just something to give that hoop more support.

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I think we are talking about the same thing. There is a tube that runs between the b hoop right where the door bars meet the b hoop. You just can't see it because of the seat, which no longer folds forward, is in the way.

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I think we are talking about the same thing. There is a tube that runs between the b hoop right where the door bars meet the b hoop. You just can't see it because of the seat, which no longer folds forward, is in the way.

:thumbsup: jamminz.gif This truck's comin out awesome

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I also had to install the "Krawler" joint in the drivers side upper axle mount. The factory bushing from what I have heard is a real bear to get out. I am thinking the previous owner must have replaced them because one good whap with the hammer and the old bushing flew across the garage floor! jamminz.gif

I had replaced that bushing when I installed the axle, and the oem bushing was a major PITA to get out.

 

I love the progress, sweet lookin rig.

 

I've been able to put more time and $$ into mine if you wanna check it out here.

 

Keep up the good work.

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I like the cage and stuff question for you how much room between the steering wheel and the bar that runs from side to side. Plus do you have a link form where you got the cage at.

 

Sorry for not getting back sooner. I've been on vacation.

 

There is a few inches in between there. There was a big enough gap that it didn't concern me at all. I think when putting this cage together there is a little room for interpretation. You can kinda move things around a bit and decide where they work best for you. The majority of the tube you have to cut down and notch to fit so you can put things where you like.

 

BountyHunter... your YJ looks really nice! By the way... thanks for the kind words and making swapping that bushing easy for me. I appreciate it.

 

I'm going to try and find some time this week or weekend to trim fenders and paint it. I'll post up when I make some progress.

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I got all the fenders trimmed up today. I'm also having the windshield replaced tomorrow. It's got a long crack all the way across and I put a big spider web in it while doing the cage with my welding hammer (oops :oops: ) I will be painting it tomorrow too. I've got 12 cans of olive drab Krylon sitting on the work bench. I'll post up pics tomorrow night if all goes well. :brows:

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