School me on (bedless) Comanche's

[DirtyComanche]

There's a guy on here with a 100" WB MJ. He built a new frame from the cab back IIRC.

 

 

 

To actually make a 4-dr XJ/MJ with the bed not welded to the body is a bish. Typically people jsut take a 4dr Xj and cut the back window area off and either re-install the lift gate (metal gates only) or use a chunk of MJ cab to fix the hole.

 

Actually, no matter how you do it they're a bish. NAXJA has a couple builds where they did things like that.

[Pete M]

Keep in mind that the body is a structural part of the MJ and XJ. Alterations must be thoroughly thought out to keep it from bending or cracking in the altered locations once you start thumping it offroad. Plus there's the safety aspect if it's your daily driver.

[87manche]

 

Any pictures of the one lifted with the 34's??

 

Here's a pic of a 34 on 3", no trimming.

The tire rubbed the flare just sitting straight, couldn't turn it more than 10*

Rear wheel well opening was big enough to fit it, but it would have rubbed when stuffed.

 

A 34x9.5 tire on a 15x8 with 3.75 BS fits right under the flare, and tucks nicely inside the fender.

It avoids the sheetmetal, after I trimmed I had to remove the small sheetmetal strap that supported the fender, the tire will stuff all the way into the wheelwell until it rubs on the inside sheetmetal, I flattened the pinch seam up front and fiberglassed over it to make it smooth.

 

Here's what it looked like while I was hacking at it.

The curves were the biggest PITA.

 

Here's what it looked like ready for the road with 3" of lift.

 

i've since shackled and spacered it to 4", but it worked fine at 3, I just wanted a bit more lift because the LWB breakover angle sucks.

[Eagle]

Cherokees have a 104" wheelbase. Having wheeled both an XJ and a SWB MJ, I don't think there's any need to go shorter than the XJ's 104", and I don't really think there's any need to shorten a SWB MJ at all. The MJ climbs better than the XJ, precisely because of that extra wheelbease.

 

I have seen pictures of a very nicely executed MJ that was shortened nearly a foot. It looked like it just rolled out of the factory -- it wasn't a flatbed, he shortened the frame and the stock bed and made it look original. But it's a lot of work and I question the return on investment (of effort, as well as money).

[87manche]

I should add that with a LWB it's really just the back quarters that take a beating.

I like my wheelbase, it makes me feel stable, but the back half of the bed is just something that get's dragged.

My future plans are cutting the outside of the bed off, and attaching tube to the inner box, thus solving the sheetmetal problem, but I'll keep the bed rails so I can still use my cap, and I'll keep the inside box and tailgate.

[binderbart]

There's a guy on here with a 100" WB MJ. He built a new frame from the cab back IIRC.

 

 

 

To actually make a 4-dr XJ/MJ with the bed not welded to the body is a bish. Typically people jsut take a 4dr Xj and cut the back window area off and either re-install the lift gate (metal gates only) or use a chunk of MJ cab to fix the hole.

 

Actually, no matter how you do it they're a bish. NAXJA has a couple builds where they did things like that.

 

I don't want to make a four door, I want to stick with the 2 door and install my flatbed. here's some pictures of the flatbed I'll be using.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c321/ ... ras020.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c321/ ... ras019.jpg

[binderbart]

Keep in mind that the body is a structural part of the MJ and XJ. Alterations must be thoroughly thought out to keep it from bending or cracking in the altered locations once you start thumping it offroad. Plus there's the safety aspect if it's your daily driver.

 

This is something I've ran thru my mind alot, From what I could see from searching, the MJ has a removable bed, if I were to just remove the bed and install my flatbed I shouldn't affect the structural support any.

[binderbart]

 

Any pictures of the one lifted with the 34's??

 

Here's a pic of a 34 on 3", no trimming.

The tire rubbed the flare just sitting straight, couldn't turn it more than 10*

Rear wheel well opening was big enough to fit it, but it would have rubbed when stuffed.

 

A 34x9.5 tire on a 15x8 with 3.75 BS fits right under the flare, and tucks nicely inside the fender.

It avoids the sheetmetal, after I trimmed I had to remove the small sheetmetal strap that supported the fender, the tire will stuff all the way into the wheelwell until it rubs on the inside sheetmetal, I flattened the pinch seam up front and fiberglassed over it to make it smooth.

 

Here's what it looked like while I was hacking at it.

The curves were the biggest PITA.

 

Here's what it looked like ready for the road with 3" of lift.

 

i've since shackled and spacered it to 4", but it worked fine at 3, I just wanted a bit more lift because the LWB breakover angle sucks.

 

Which lift is this and what did it cost? Looks good.

[binderbart]

Cherokees have a 104" wheelbase. Having wheeled both an XJ and a SWB MJ, I don't think there's any need to go shorter than the XJ's 104", and I don't really think there's any need to shorten a SWB MJ at all. The MJ climbs better than the XJ, precisely because of that extra wheelbease.

 

I have seen pictures of a very nicely executed MJ that was shortened nearly a foot. It looked like it just rolled out of the factory -- it wasn't a flatbed, he shortened the frame and the stock bed and made it look original. But it's a lot of work and I question the return on investment (of effort, as well as money).

 

104" would suffice, right now I just need to get this bought and home and on the hoist to see what my options are. I just don't want to go thru the trouble of fabbing my flatbed for the longer wheel base to fit and later have to re-fab again for a shorter wheel base.

[binderbart]

I should add that with a LWB it's really just the back quarters that take a beating.

I like my wheelbase, it makes me feel stable, but the back half of the bed is just something that get's dragged.

My future plans are cutting the outside of the bed off, and attaching tube to the inner box, thus solving the sheetmetal problem, but I'll keep the bed rails so I can still use my cap, and I'll keep the inside box and tailgate.

 

I submitted some photo's of the flatbed I using a few post up, my departure angle should not be a problem once this is installed. I'll probably just wheel with it standard length first to see how bad it is and go from there. Unless it looks easy enough to shorten it right away.

[BARILLMS]

We need to get together and share ideas. I'm essentially going through the exact same thing. I bought an 88 long bed for off road only.

 

I plan on ditching the bed, and shortening the wheelbase.

I have 6.5" RockKrawler coils w/ custom long arms up front.

I'm doing a SOA with a Ford 8.8 w/ discs and 4.10s.

 

I'll be running Maxxis BigHorn 35x12.50s most likely.

 

From all the research I've done (check out my other post with the link to the "leaf spring sliders") it's gonna be tough to shorten the wheelbase drastically.

 

My ideas so far are as follows:

Option 1: You can either use a shorter leaf spring, keep the front hangers in place and move the back hangers forward, then chop of whats left behind. From my estimate...this will only shorten the wheelbase about 3" and allow you to bob about 14" off the rear of the frame.

 

Option 2: Move the entire leafs springs forward. This poses the problem with the hump built into the frame?? Redoing all 4 hanger, Also gas tank relocation, upper shock mount relocatioin, bumpstop relocaion.

 

Option 3: Chop the frame behind the cab, remove a section, then reattach. No messing with hangers, Also gas tank relocation, upper shock mount relocatioin, bumpstop relocaion. Also poses the problem of WHAT IF you cannot reattach it and make it strong enough??

 

Option 4: Whack off the entire vehicle behind the cab, and rebuild the entrie rear potion of the frame however you like. Need tube bender, need good engineering skills and fabrication skills, Lots of money for good DOM tubing and other materials. Lots of time, pretty intimidating project.

 

I plan on documenting all my work with photos, so some year I may be done and have time to post the stuff.

The truggys I see are so awesome, it's temtping.

[87manche]

Which lift is this and what did it cost? Looks good.

it's a skyjacker 3" I bought used.

I've since put some extended shackles and some spacers up front to net 4".

[Pete M]

Keep in mind that the body is a structural part of the MJ and XJ. Alterations must be thoroughly thought out to keep it from bending or cracking in the altered locations once you start thumping it offroad. Plus there's the safety aspect if it's your daily driver.

 

This is something I've ran thru my mind alot, From what I could see from searching, the MJ has a removable bed, if I were to just remove the bed and install my flatbed I shouldn't affect the structural support any.

 

 

Yup, the bed is definitely removable.

 

[pingpong]

I shortened my WB to 113" which is pretty good for how I wheel, and that was with 35's, now I am to 42's and moving my front axle out and and th3 back out some, but I will be changing and there will be appropriate changes to my tubing.

 

Points to consider when flatbedding or making a truggy...

 

When you chop it.. Plate the old frame rails up, and make a lot of weldable surface to attatch The tubing too.

 

Its easier to 4 link it then it is to keep your leafs

 

its easier and cheaper to put a fuel cell and after market pump on then it is to adapt a stock tank

 

There is a ground wire located in the drivers side tail light that makes it a PITA to pull the bed.

 

There are 8 bolts that hold the bed on.

[binderbart]

We need to get together and share ideas. I'm essentially going through the exact same thing. I bought an 88 long bed for off road only.

 

I plan on ditching the bed, and shortening the wheelbase.

I have 6.5" RockKrawler coils w/ custom long arms up front.

I'm doing a SOA with a Ford 8.8 w/ discs and 4.10s.

 

I'll be running Maxxis BigHorn 35x12.50s most likely.

 

From all the research I've done (check out my other post with the link to the "leaf spring sliders") it's gonna be tough to shorten the wheelbase drastically.

 

My ideas so far are as follows:

Option 1: You can either use a shorter leaf spring, keep the front hangers in place and move the back hangers forward, then chop of whats left behind. From my estimate...this will only shorten the wheelbase about 3" and allow you to bob about 14" off the rear of the frame.

 

Option 2: Move the entire leafs springs forward. This poses the problem with the hump built into the frame?? Redoing all 4 hanger, Also gas tank relocation, upper shock mount relocatioin, bumpstop relocaion.

 

Option 3: Chop the frame behind the cab, remove a section, then reattach. No messing with hangers, Also gas tank relocation, upper shock mount relocatioin, bumpstop relocaion. Also poses the problem of WHAT IF you cannot reattach it and make it strong enough??

 

Option 4: Whack off the entire vehicle behind the cab, and rebuild the entrie rear potion of the frame however you like. Need tube bender, need good engineering skills and fabrication skills, Lots of money for good DOM tubing and other materials. Lots of time, pretty intimidating project.

 

I plan on documenting all my work with photos, so some year I may be done and have time to post the stuff.

The truggys I see are so awesome, it's temtping.

 

If I do anything it will probably be your mentioned Option #3. I'm planning of taking plenty of pictures myself. I'm going to pick this comanche up at the end of the month, I'll probably make a decesion then of what i'm going to do, just lots and lots of research right now. Look forward to your write ups.

[binderbart]

Keep in mind that the body is a structural part of the MJ and XJ. Alterations must be thoroughly thought out to keep it from bending or cracking in the altered locations once you start thumping it offroad. Plus there's the safety aspect if it's your daily driver.

 

This is something I've ran thru my mind alot, From what I could see from searching, the MJ has a removable bed, if I were to just remove the bed and install my flatbed I shouldn't affect the structural support any.

 

 

Yup, the bed is definitely removable.

 

That is a nice looking MJ. I especially like what you did with the exhaust ;) Is the frame work I see part of the original frame or did you add that in?

[binderbart]

I shortened my WB to 113" which is pretty good for how I wheel, and that was with 35's, now I am to 42's and moving my front axle out and and th3 back out some, but I will be changing and there will be appropriate changes to my tubing.

 

Points to consider when flatbedding or making a truggy...

 

When you chop it.. Plate the old frame rails up, and make a lot of weldable surface to attatch The tubing too.

 

Its easier to 4 link it then it is to keep your leafs

 

its easier and cheaper to put a fuel cell and after market pump on then it is to adapt a stock tank

 

There is a ground wire located in the drivers side tail light that makes it a PITA to pull the bed.

 

There are 8 bolts that hold the bed on.

I was already planning on plating and welding, I apprieciate the "heads up" on the ground wire also. Now I need to do some more searching on 4 link systems :hmm:

[DirtyComanche]

That is a nice looking MJ. I especially like what you did with the exhaust ;) Is the frame work I see part of the original frame or did you add that in?

 

 

 

That ain't his; he's never owned anything that nice :brows: :roll: . But that's a stock longbed frame under there.

[Pete M]

That is a nice looking MJ. I especially like what you did with the exhaust ;) Is the frame work I see part of the original frame or did you add that in?

 

 

 

That ain't his; he's never owned anything that nice :brows: :roll:

 

:D This ones mine (well, one of my three):

 

 

[BARILLMS]

That's totally what I needed to see! Totally bedless, not bad!

I can't wait to get my bed off to see how the disection shall occur!!!

 

WHATS UP WITH THIS GROUND WIRE IN NEAR THE TAILLIGHT??

More info please?? Why is a ground wire a pain in the @$$?

[Pete M]

The ground itself isn't a pain per se, it's when you forget about it and you go crazy trying to figure out why your lights or fuel pump won't work that's a pain in the butt. :D

[87manche]

The ground itself isn't a pain per se, it's when you forget about it and you go crazy trying to figure out why your lights or fuel pump won't work that's a pain in the butt. :D

yeah, once you know about it it's not a big deal, just attach it to the frame and call it good.

[binderbart]

That is a nice looking MJ. I especially like what you did with the exhaust ;) Is the frame work I see part of the original frame or did you add that in?

 

 

 

That ain't his; he's never owned anything that nice :brows: :roll:

 

:D This ones mine (well, one of my three):

 

 

 

Both are very respectable MJ's. The more pictures that get posted the more anxious I get to go after mine. I just got some many irons in the fire right now that I asked the guy to hold it till the end of the month, he will, I've know him for 11 years.

I was upstairs at the shop today and saw mine nearly new swampers up there and started day dreaming again.

Here's a delima for ya, my two lads gave me a aussie locker for christmas, I originally planned to drop it in the front of the trail scout, now I'm thinking of maybe holding off for now and see if I can drop one of my scout dana 44's in the rear of the MJ when I get it and put the aussie in there. My trail scout has a welded rear end and works well now.....and I can always order another aussie later :D . I didn't get a chance to do any searching yesterday and probably won't yet today, if I lay down now I'll get 5 hours of sleep before work, and we got wood to cut tomorrow. I usually do most of my surfing sat. morning after I get off overtime at 5 am. probably look up the four links then.

[BIGMASS]

Now I need to do some more searching on 4 link systems

 

http://pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Links

[binderbart]

did quite a bit of reading on the four link, not sure if thats the route I want to go, I did a bunch of searching in here about lifts. Didn't find a whole lot on body lifts??? is that tough to do on a comanche?but I did find a lot on lifting the suspension, to much actually, now I don't know what to do. I was going to pick it up last friday, but we had drifting snow and the comanche doesn't have rear brakes and it won't shift into four wheel drive (due to a rusted shifting lever I'm sure). hoping to go after it this friday. Once I get it home I'll pop it up on the hoist and go from there. It would be great if a set of scout axles would work under it. but I know the front has a drivers side grab on the transfer case , so thats not a option. I ask about the body lift because my plans are to pull the bed and put the flat bed on, the cab would be my only issue with lifting.