comanche13 Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 I will be lifting jeep next weekend I have : Coil springs 5.5" Control arms drop brackets track bar and bracket drop pitman arm brake lines spring perches ubolts 3.25" coil spacers 1.75" sye 8.8 Is there anything I am missing? I don't know what type of u joints i need have a ax15 with a 231. I am ordering shocks for truck after it is lifted to see the outcome of how high the truck goes Thanks Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 if you're installing an SYE, then it'll be a custom shaft. Tom Woods driveshafts seem to come highly recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Wheel spacers and/or wheels with less backspace for the rear tires to clear the inside of the wheel well. The Ford 8.8 usually uses a 1350 style joint while the Comanche uses 13010 series joints. 1350/1310 conversion u joints are available, or a flange yoke for a 1310 series joint could be swapped onto the axle. These could be gotten either new, or used (Crown Vic?). But since you're going with a SYE, as Pete mentioned you will need a new custom made driveshaft, so you might as well have it made with a 1350 series u joint at the back to solve that issue. On a side not, even though a good upgrade, the rear drive line is long enough to not need a SYE on a long bed, and probably not on a short bed. When you have the perches welded on, make sure that the pinion is going to be 2 or 3 degrees below straight in line with the driveshaft (SYE, assuming CV joint at the top of the driveshaft) or 2 or 3 degrees below parallel with the transfer case output (no SYE, stock style rear driveshaft) or you will get vibration at higher speeds which can eat transfer case and rear axle bearings and seals on top of being annoying. Don't bother installing the drop pitman arm until everything is installed, then run a strong between the end points of the drag link and a second string between the end points of the track bar to see what needs to be done to get these string to run parallel. If you do need a drop pitman arm, reinforce the frame around the steering box bolts (mine is plated with 3/16" steel inside and out, also going back to the next hole (which is used by tow hooks) and on the outside forward to catch the bumper mount holes) and/or a steering box brace to prevent the bolts from cracking the frame or ripping through it. Especially with larger tires and/or front locker off road. Unless you're going to use your old u bolt plates somewhere on the rear suspension I would suggest weld-on shock mounts on the axle for a cleaner look and better function. If you're planning to use this truck offroad I would suggest against the control arm drop brackets. Thinking of long arms won't be a bad idea. I'm running one inch lower with adjustable short arms no problem, though. If you do use drop brackets, make sure they come with braces, or order a set of braces to go with them. You may also need longer axle breather hoses and parking brake lines. With larger tires (I'm assuming you will be running something in the 33-35"range) steering upgrade (drag link/tie rod) to the beefier V8 ZJ Grand Cherokee units or aftermarket woild IMHO be a "Good Idea", as would be a brake upgrade. Lower axle gearing if you want 5th gear to be useful with larger tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 You can't use the original driveshaft with a SYE. Physical impossibility! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche13 Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 You can't use the original driveshaft with a SYE. Physical impossibility! Just going to weld the splines to the yoke on SYE simple fix :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motion Offroad Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 You can't use the original driveshaft with a SYE. Physical impossibility! Just going to weld the splines to the yoke on SYE simple fix :yes: Huh? You need to add a "slip" somewhere in the system for it to function properly. Your eliminating the "slip" at the yoke in the TC, so thus you need to add it to the driveshaft itself now... -Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 pretty sure he was joking. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawn Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 just sell the sye. you don't need it, plus it will save you the hassels with the driveshaft. - some of them , anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 our MJs aren't as susceptible to severe driveshaft angles as XJs, but the sye is still a good upgrade. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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