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Unit Bearings


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The unit bearing would have to be virtually unusable before it could affect camber. Remove the tire and rim, grab the brake rotor at the top and bottom, and try to rock it in and out. If it moves, there's too much play in the bearing.

 

I'd be looking at ball joints long before I'd consider the hub/bearing. They usually start growling long before they develop excess slop.

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The unit bearing would have to be virtually unusable before it could affect camber. Remove the tire and rim, grab the brake rotor at the top and bottom, and try to rock it in and out. If it moves, there's too much play in the bearing.

 

I'd be looking at ball joints long before I'd consider the hub/bearing. They usually start growling long before they develop excess slop.

 

The rotor would move because it isn't bolted down to the hub. Why would you need to pull the tire to check for slop?

 

Just curious.

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I'd be looking at ball joints long before I'd consider the hub/bearing. They usually start growling long before they develop excess slop.

 

I would have always agreed with this until I bought my 87 with the old style tapered roller bearing hub instead of the ball bearing type. I had a huge amount of play (27 " tire had about 3/4 inch movement 6:00 - 12:00). I had driven it 20 miles to work and thought I had a bad TRE. NEVER growled one bit. But I do agree that if you're having that much of a camber issue to check BJ's really well. After 26 years of wrenching for a living, not much suprises me any more. Especially on Jeeps :D

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:eek:

 

Looks like a Jeepspeed rig with IFS :D ! I'd go over every inch of that front axle....better yet, swap it out (probably cheaper than what you might need to replace on it).

 

Jeff

 

I'd like to drop a 44 under there, but just can't deal with the project of that right now, or the $400 price of the bracket kit.

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The unit bearing would have to be virtually unusable before it could affect camber. Remove the tire and rim, grab the brake rotor at the top and bottom, and try to rock it in and out. If it moves, there's too much play in the bearing.

 

I'd be looking at ball joints long before I'd consider the hub/bearing. They usually start growling long before they develop excess slop.

 

The rotor would move because it isn't bolted down to the hub. Why would you need to pull the tire to check for slop?

 

Just curious.

Well, I confess I completely forgot that most folks aren't as anal as I am about originality and have probably long since discarded the OEM retainer clips that hold the rotors to the hubs. Sorry.

 

Yes, just wiggling the tire will show if there's movement, but with the tire and rim mounted you can't see if the play is in the unit bearing or the ball joints unless you have a helper. With the wheel and tire out of the way, you can see what's moving and how much.

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The unit bearing would have to be virtually unusable before it could affect camber. Remove the tire and rim, grab the brake rotor at the top and bottom, and try to rock it in and out. If it moves, there's too much play in the bearing.

 

I'd be looking at ball joints long before I'd consider the hub/bearing. They usually start growling long before they develop excess slop.

 

The rotor would move because it isn't bolted down to the hub. Why would you need to pull the tire to check for slop?

 

Just curious.

Well, I confess I completely forgot that most folks aren't as anal as I am about originality and have probably long since discarded the OEM retainer clips that hold the rotors to the hubs. Sorry.

 

Yes, just wiggling the tire will show if there's movement, but with the tire and rim mounted you can't see if the play is in the unit bearing or the ball joints unless you have a helper. With the wheel and tire out of the way, you can see what's moving and how much.

 

Makes sense. :cheers:

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