MichiganDuck Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 What's a good locker for the rear? I'm not looking to go full blown air locker, but i want a good, somewhat cheap locker. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Depends what you want it for. You can daily drive everything from a tight LSD to a Detroit, to a Lock Right, to a Spool, depending on where/how you drive, and what you want a locker for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Definitely going to be a winter DD, part time trail/offroad toy. I will never use anything larger than a 33" tire also. Its going to be lifted/auto, so i won't be beating on it too much like i do with my mustang Was looking at lunchbox lockers, due to their price and i think i like the simplicity of the Spartan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 One question first: What rear axle do you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Haven't bought it yet [buying the jeep this week and parts shopping in a "jeep graveyard" right away.] Will most likely be a Dana44. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 just making sure you weren't going to lock a D35. No experience with Spartan, but been very impressed with the Aussie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 I've done lots of research/reading up on the basics when it comes to Jeeps while doing past "dream jeep", online builds, so i know most of the common knowledge like not trying to lock up basically anything below a 44. Though, I definitely don't know it all, so expect to hear from me a lot on here.. :banana: :grrrr: , right? haha My main background is foxbody mustangs, so i could tell you a good amount about those..haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 I'm very happy with my Aussies. They are a monster in the snow, last year with all the snow we had I drove to work every day in it, and didn't end up using 4x4 once (with the front locked too, let me tell you it's a whole 'nother world of awesome). And I've just got plane-jane all season tires, nothing fancy there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 IMHO, an automatic locker in a winter DD (in Michigan) is a bad idea. Dry road, no problem, but eventually you will spin out on an icy surface, its inevitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 a fulltime locker in the rear for a DD isnt a good idea in my mind. others beg to differ but why not just lock the front first? its not even there until your in 4wd. if you really want to go cheap, go to a junk yard pull some spider gears out of another axle and weld them in in the empty spots between the others. redneck locker buddy! haha i just threw one in a buddies toyota and its kicking some @$$ i do however run a spartan in the front and its awsome. hasnt let me down yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 So, basically, lock up the front first? more effective offroad? Also, won't the locked front affect steering??? :dunno: Sorry for long reply, spent the day in Lansing at MEPs... Signed into the Navy today.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 hey what do they say,,, for snow a front wheel drive car is the best bet right. yes the steering will be tighter with lunchbox up front but its not bad at all. you might get some clicking when making sharper turns as well but thats just the teeth of the locker spinning freely over the other teeth. it eventually will wear down and you won't even hear it.. that or youll just get used to it. mine really only does it when I'm backing up at a sharp angle. full lock really. and as for more effective offroad i say yes. it pulls up up onto something as where the rear would just push. if your really hardcore a locker front and rear, you'd be pretty much set. i often hit a spot or two where both my fronts can't grab and that one wheel in the rear is just spinning or in the air. lame. thats only in some hairy situations though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 just making sure you weren't going to lock a D35. well, I've always been told not to lock the smaller axles since they are much more likely to break something... i don't think this truck will ever see any hardcore wheeling, or mud bogs, but it will get light, "upnorth"/Baldwin trails and deep snow time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 spent the day in Lansing at MEPs... Signed into the Navy today.. Thanks, and good luck! :cheers: If you get a lockright, don't forget it's back there. Learn how it locks and unlocks with your gas pedal, steering correction, etc. It gets way more sensitive in low/no traction conditions. The longer the wheelbase, the less likely it is to spin you out, but all bets are off in the ice. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Learn how it locks and unlocks with your gas pedal, steering correction, etc.It gets way more sensitive in low/no traction conditions. The longer the wheelbase, the less likely it is to spin you out, but all bets are off in the ice. :yes: I'm prettty good at driving RWD trucks all through winter/snow/ice... How different is a locker from the LSD? I know they are different, but I'm curious as to how much of that would be different in the slippery conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 It's different from an LSD because of how quickly it can engage, and change driving characteristics. It's not as bad with an automatic, but just lifting off the gas with a MT can get the locker to react. learn how it reacts in turns when you hit, and lift off the gas. Short wheelbase manual trans in snow/ice are the worst, short of spinning out, the worst is instant, unexpected, throttle controlled lane changes :eek: With an MJ's wheelbase, and an auto, you'll probably do fine, just remember how evil they can get when the snow flies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Haven't bought it yet [buying the jeep this week and parts shopping in a "jeep graveyard" right away.] Will most likely be a Dana44. Correction: Will most likely be a Dana 35. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Haven't bought it yet [buying the jeep this week and parts shopping in a "jeep graveyard" right away.] Will most likely be a Dana44. Correction: Will most likely be a Dana 35. Should of specified: 35/44 front/rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 a fulltime locker in the rear for a DD isnt a good idea in my mind. others beg to differ but why not just lock the front first? its not even there until your in 4wd. ........ i do however run a spartan in the front and its awsome. hasnt let me down yet. So, when in 2wd, the front locker will not be engaged? How does it handle going down the road in the winter in 4wd witht hat front locker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Haven't bought it yet [buying the jeep this week and parts shopping in a "jeep graveyard" right away.] Will most likely be a Dana44. Correction: Will most likely be a Dana 35. Should of specified: 35/44 front/rear 35 was only used as a front axle by Ford. TTB Exploder comes to mind. All Comanches came from the factory with a Dana 30 front axle. There is nothing wrong with these that junkyard parts (shafts with larger u joints) can't take care of. 99% of Comanches came from the factory with a Dana 35 rear axle. They are junk. Some of these have had something better swapped in since then. 1% came from the factory with a Dana 44 rear axle. The holy grail; everybody wants them and they go for a premium price. A Dana 35 can fail just cruising down the highway, just ask Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 A Dana 35 can fail just cruising down the highway, just ask Pete. I can see the absolute hate towards the D35 here... so whats the recommendation for a front axle then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrand Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 A Dana 35 can fail just cruising down the highway, just ask Pete. I can see the absolute hate towards the D35 here... so whats the recommendation for a front axle then? D30 and D35 are different. D35 is standard-issue rear axle for Comanches (like mine). D30 is what you'd have up front in any stock MJ/XJ. The D35 has a reputation as a boat anchor. Mine is ok so far, but when it dies, my truck will get something else. The D30 is a decent front axle. If you want to go bigger, lots of things are possible, but the beefier the axle, the more it'll test your fab skills. What are your goals for your truck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganDuck Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 A Dana 35 can fail just cruising down the highway, just ask Pete. I can see the absolute hate towards the D35 here... so whats the recommendation for a front axle then? D30 and D35 are different. D35 is standard-issue rear axle for Comanches (like mine). D30 is what you'd have up front in any stock MJ/XJ. The D35 has a reputation as a boat anchor. Mine is ok so far, but when it dies, my truck will get something else. The D30 is a decent front axle. If you want to go bigger, lots of things are possible, but the beefier the axle, the more it'll test your fab skills. What are your goals for your truck? Good, all year DD, still capable offroad, and light trails as well as bumpy @$$ dirtroads. Low cost, low fab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrand Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Then you'll want a D30 front. They are on every 4wd Cherokee out there. Pretty much a bolt-in swap. Rear is more personal choice. The only bolt-in upgrades are a Comanche Dana44 and a Comanche AMC-20, both of which are rare. Next choice would be either a Ford 8.8 from an Explorer, or a Chrysler 8.25 from a later Cherokee. The 8.8 has disc brakes stock from 1995 and up, but is narrower than stock, so you'd want Spidertrax spacers on the rear wheels. The 8.25 came on Cherokees (and later, the Liberty, with discs) and has a decent reputation. Get the later version with 29 splines. Either choice will involve cutting off old spring perches and welding on new ones. Your local muffler shop could do this easily. Then you'll have to reattach the leaf springs (new u-bolts!) connect/bleed the brakes, perhaps cut/stretch the driveshaft, make sure the pinion angle is correct. What did I miss, guys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Don't forget wheel spacers on the 8.8 to keep the tires off the inside of the wheel well. It is just enough narrower to make a problem on a Comanche, but work without spacers on Wranglers and Cherokees which have a narrower body in the rear. Also something to adapt the 1310 drive shaft to it, whether it be a 1310 flange to bolt to the diff, or a conversion joint to use the Exploder flange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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