Dana 44 or Chrysler 8.25???

[Shane]

I have the turd Dana 35 in my 89 MJ. I hear about all the problems with them,so I figuredI use mine until it went out then replace it with something better. Mind you I don't do any heavy offroading as its my DD and Iwant something that can function when/ if I really need it. My questions are: 1) Dana 44 or Chrysler 8.25? 2) which is the easiest swap? 3)What if any fabrication is needed? As I have said many of times; I not a mechanic nor do I claim to be one, but I love these Jeeps and learn the stuff as I go. Thanks guys. As always; any and all advice or critism is appreciated.

[terrawombat]

8.25 is going to be easier to find as there are a TON of XJs that got 'em. A complete bolt-in Dana 44 from an MJ can be found, but they're rare and generally fetch a premium unless someone doesn't know what they've got. The 8.25 will need the spring perches relocated, which means you'll need to do some welding on some fairly thick tubing.

 

Strength-wise, you're not going to go wrong with either. Many have said that the 8.25 is just a hair weaker than a D44.

[Pete M]

make sure its a 97+ 8.25 so you get the stronger axle shafts.

[SW86]

yup. you'd want the 29 spline 8.25

[mvusse]

Comanche 44 is a bolt in, but as stated earlier is rare and will cost you more. Cherokee 44 is easier to find, but still not all that common. 97 and newer Cherokee 8.25 is pretty common and can be had for cheap (I paid $100 for the 3.55 geared one under my Comanche, got the 4.10 one that's under my Cherokee for free). Just make sure it has the same ratio gears as the 35 it will be replacing.

 

Both a Cherokee 44 or 8.25" need the same work: spring perches and shock mounts cut off (can be done with a $20 angle grinder and a cutting disk, then ground smooth with a grinding disk). and new spring perches welded on in the correct location.

 

If you're going to stay spring under axle, factory perches can be had cheap (like $8 or something). Find a buddy with a big welder and buy him a case of beer to weld them on, or pay a local welding shop $20 to do it for you.

[Pete M]

depending on the current ratio, now's a great time to upgrade both axles with ones from a late model XJ and get stronger parts and better gearing all around. :thumbsup:

[zagscrawler]

If you go with the 8.25 try to get a complete axle drum to drum, I'm pretty sure the d35 backing plates won't bolt up to the 8.25 so make sure it has brakes on it. Also ive believe ive heard the 8.25 is a tad longer at the u-joint yoke and some people have had to shorten the drive shaft a bit.

[Incommando]

I picked up a matching set of '98 XJ axles ( big u-joint front and 29-spline rear 3.55 ) for $100 for both. XJ axles deals are out there. The differnce in price from a 8.25 to a D44 could probably buy you a lunch-box locker.

[mvusse]

If you go with the 8.25 try to get a complete axle drum to drum, I'm pretty sure the d35 backing plates won't bolt up to the 8.25 so make sure it has brakes on it. Also ive believe ive heard the 8.25 is a tad longer at the u-joint yoke and some people have had to shorten the drive shaft a bit.

 

I did forget that yes, the nose on an 8.25" is 1"longer than that on a D35. But I believe a D44 is also an inch longer.

[BHelton]

Also a furs 8.8 could be a option, but the 8.25 would be easy to find and be dependable as well