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Posted

well I'm bored and wanted to express my opnion about penetrating oils

 

WD40- water displacement, crappy pen. oil but has its place for squeaky hinges, removing stickers, somewhat temporaily inhibiting rust, lube while stoning burrs on races etc. i found an old can a while back claiming to use benzene as an ingrident. cancer causing carcogenic- bad crap.

 

 

then what seems to be the fav on this site is pb blaster. they bought a case of this for us at one job and we threw it away. its a fraction of the cost of the good stuff and you get what you pay for. the label tests its efficeny by spraying some into a styrofoam cup and watch it melt. is the styrofoam made with rust and hundreds of pounds of torque built in?? :hmm: then at the bottom in the fine print states melts cups fast but worthless as a penetrant. if they were trying to compare themselves to other brands they forgot the important word "others" are worthless as a penetrant.

 

 

now for the good stuff. Aero Kroil, or kroil. everything needs prep time and this is no different. to works its best it needs to be sprayed on and allowed to penetrate a day or to in advance, but at work you rarely have that much notice so spray it on, go to lunch and when you come back its gone as far as it can go in the time alloted. i love this stuff and the label says nothing about spraying into a cup to see it melt. it goes on and claims if given the proper time it can kreep down to one millionth of an ince and free up that stuck bolt, and no this isnt some cheap as seen on tv product like that pb crap :shake:

 

 

and for thoes really stubborn bolt/nuts, a little indian trick i learned is if you can get away with heating it up (175-200 degrees or so) glowing red is not needed, rub a candle around it, and just like soddering copper tubing, the wax gets sucked right into the threads, and with very little effort will spin right off. :wrench:

Posted

holy flashpoint!!! 27C is somewhere around 56 Farienheight. ill have to try finding that stuff, i like the idea of dry moly lube it leaves

Posted

I agree with Aero Kroil, we use it at work and it's the best. Using acetone and transmission fluid works a little better but you don't have that nice pressurized can and straw!!! The other problem is where do you buy it? No auto parts store has it or big box store.

Posted

grainger has it, and you can also get it in a gallon can then pour it in a spray bottle so theres no waste from the can losing pressure.

Posted

I use pb blaster...stuff works fantastic.

 

at work we use Zep....also works fantastic

 

wd-40 will rust out the brake cables on a bicycle faster than you can say "rust". zep and pb blaster will lube them for the duration of time I'll have it.

 

pb and zep will break almost anything at work loose...and we work with very large bolts

Posted

 

pb and zep will break almost anything at work loose...and we work with very large bolts

 

 

for the big boy nuts/bolts kroils the key ;) i didnt measure the stud but the nut was 4 3/16" and had to use a hytorq to get them up to 10,500 ft lbs

Posted

Used to be a big PB Blaster fan until I got my hands on Kroil. That's all I use now, plus it's thicker and tends to stick to the parts I spray it on. PB Blaster seems to just drip off onto my shop floor. Also, Kroil smells a lot better :D

 

There was a really nice sale on the stuff not too long ago - $12 shipped for two cans of aero Kroil. Naturally, I stocked up :D

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