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You mean to tell me that there's torque specs for the water pump? When I changed mine on my '88 a few years back I just tightened them as tight as I could with a short handled rachet, and it still works good for me. I doubt this helps you any, sorry I don't know more, I'm still in the learning stage of these trucks.

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Yea, that is very true. Something that I neglected to think of back in the day. But like I mentioned, if it's any consolation, mine is still going stong and not leaking. I also ran a bead of gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket though, so that might be the only thing keeping mine from leaking. Hopefully someone with more knowledge here than I have can help us both out.

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The torque spec for things like this is based on the bolt size.

There is a chart:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html

 

don't worry, tightening by feel in this situation will be fine.

 

Its not a like its a head bolt or a fly wheel.

 

CW

 

theres torque specs for flywheels? :D

 

we did a flywheel swap on a friend's S-10, I only did the bolts medium tight with a rachet, I don't think anyone tightened them right down.

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theres torque specs for flywheels? :D

 

we did a flywheel swap on a friend's S-10, I only did the bolts medium tight with a rachet, I don't think anyone tightened them right down.

 

heh i almost had the same thing happen on my camaro, made me kinda glad the motor died before my legs did, when i pulled the trans the flywheel bolts had loosened to barely past hand tight.

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The torque spec for things like this is based on the bolt size.

There is a chart:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html

 

don't worry, tightening by feel in this situation will be fine.

 

Its not a like its a head bolt or a fly wheel.

 

CW

 

theres torque specs for flywheels? :D

 

we did a flywheel swap on a friend's S-10, I only did the bolts medium tight with a rachet, I don't think anyone tightened them right down.

 

As I typed that I just KNEW someone would come back and say something like that!!!

 

Well, I won't be riding in that vehicle.....hope its OK for him!! :eek: :eek:

 

CW

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I went to Sears website they start at 10.99 and go up depending on what brand I mean Snap-On could be hec who knows how much. I twisted those two top bolts off on my tranny a 6 pack later and torch grinder and chisel they were out. They can be SOB but they well come out.

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I'm just worried about cracking my block because the bolt is so close to the #1 (or possibly #6 i guess) cylinder, nor do i have any experiene or have anyone to show me

 

 

I know i will have to take my rad out, but will i have to pull off the front clip as well?

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You might have to remove the grill but not the front clip. I'd remove the grill. it makes it easier to ensure you're drilling straight into the bolt. When you use the easy out, make sure you put a nice punch mark in the center of the bolt so your bit doesn't walk. Also use some sort of lubricant while drilling and drill slowly.

 

Did you break it during re-install?

 

To answer your original question:

Water pump bolts- 13 ft-lbs (18 nM)

Fan nuts- 18 ft-lbs (24 nM)

 

Good luck.

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no, i broke it when taking the origonal off the manche, but i couldnt see it because it broke flush and i also dropped the screw inbetween my two rad core pieces. (all that happened yesturday). then today i bolted everything up, remembered i dropped thebolt , fished it out and the noticed it was broke. so then i pulled it all back apart again and looked at it and said

 

UH-OH

 

and here i am.....lol

looks like it will sit for a while like that though as i am getting ready to head into finals

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