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Bulb replacement for interior dome light


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Hey guys --

 

I'd like to replace the interior dome lights in my Comanche. I'm referring to the two lights on the walls of the cab near the top parts of the seat belts. I've removed the old bulbs. They say "12v 7w 7547.0". I believe they are festoon type bulbs (?). My owner's manual says they are C11-7w bulbs.

 

I've looked online and I can't seem to find a match for these bulbs. Can someone point me in the right direction?

 

Thanks!

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Yeah, I thought they'd be easy to find. But, I went to Auto Zone and they only had 13.5V bulbs in this style. Should I just try another local parts place?

 

Agree with Rob concerning Autismzone (except for their Duralast batteries), but the 13.5VDC bulbs will work fine for your application. :D

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First of all, your silver/red Comanche is bad @$$. I saw someone in another forum has a yellow Comanche with black stripes. His is also very cool. These trucks look great in a lot of different paint schemes. I wonder if someone has put together a gallery of stock Comanche exteriors. I'd like to see all the various combinations out there.

 

Anyway -- I guess I'll try the 13.5v if it's no big deal. I understand the wattage refers to the rate of energy drawn into the bulb, right? So I don't think I want to exceed 7w because I don't want the wire to heat up more than the factory bulb. Do you know what the trade off is of using a 13.5v instead of a 12v. Will it be dimmer or not light up at all or what?

 

Thanks!

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There is no difference between 12v and 13.5v in a vehicle that uses a 12v alternator. The alternator puts out between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. Every part for our trucks should be able to use voltages between 11 and 15 volts. So get one that fits and it should work fine. As far as the watts go 7w is factory. The wiring should be able to handle many more watts than 7. The wires are thicker gauge than a lot of speaker wire and most of that is rated for a lot more watts. I think that the head light wiring is the same gauge if not very close and it handles 55w headlights with no problems. Just my two cents though.

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There is no difference between 12v and 13.5v in a vehicle that uses a 12v alternator. The alternator puts out between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. Every part for our trucks should be able to use voltages between 11 and 15 volts. So get one that fits and it should work fine. As far as the watts go 7w is factory. The wiring should be able to handle many more watts than 7. The wires are thicker gauge than a lot of speaker wire and most of that is rated for a lot more watts. I think that the head light wiring is the same gauge if not very close and it handles 55w headlights with no problems. Just my two cents though.

 

Exactly - well said. However if upgrading the headlamps over the stock 55W it's highly recommended to upgrade the stock harness and/or run the circuit power through relays (one/ea for HI and LO beam). Your head lamp switch will thank you. :D And cicelyak, thanks for the compliment. :cheers:

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I replaced the old bulbs with new 13.5v bulbs. The driver's side still doesn't work at all. The passenger's side only lights up in the "always on" up-tilt setting. It does not work in the down-tilt door ajar setting.

 

These dome lights are kind of crappy, huh?

 

I was hoping to have a light in the cab when I open the door. Should I eff with these somehow or look for replacements? Thanks!

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Ok, I see two other posts on this topic.

 

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25277&p=258236&hilit=dome+light#p258236

 

Dashbulliwagen suggests cleaning the contacts inside the light fixture. That sounds easy enough. What should I use? WD-40 or something?

 

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26449

 

Btm24 suggests soldering an extra wire. The pictures he provided are so small... I'm not sure where he's talking about adding wire.

 

Thanks!

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I tried both dome light fixtures with wd-40 and a q-tip. I tried to focus in particular on the the ball mechanism and the metal contacts. Unfortunately, the cleaning didn't help.

 

I'd like to put some solder in there. I'm just not sure where. Should I add some solder onto the metal pads where the ball sits? Or is there something else to try?

 

I wonder if anyone re-manufactures these lights.

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no body makes the lights any more so you have to go out to junk yards and find ones. yeah I'm sorry about the bad pics you can't really see the wire, and now that it is in i can't take any more. there is no missing wire the light toggles up and down. look at this small :( pic 38595024417_medium.jpg i didnt have that at first and me and my dad thought to much and modified the light to come on in the off position. try toggling yours in the down position and see what happens.

 

Brandon

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I replaced the old bulbs with new 13.5v bulbs. The driver's side still doesn't work at all. The passenger's side only lights up in the "always on" up-tilt setting. It does not work in the down-tilt door ajar setting.

 

These dome lights are kind of crappy, huh?

 

I was hoping to have a light in the cab when I open the door. Should I eff with these somehow or look for replacements? Thanks!

Are you sure your door switches are working properly? Do you get buzzing sound if your headlights are on with the door open?

Here are other lights people have used:

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12251&hilit=lights

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Ok, I see two other posts on this topic.

 

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25277&p=258236&hilit=dome+light#p258236

 

Dashbulliwagen suggests cleaning the contacts inside the light fixture. That sounds easy enough. What should I use? WD-40 or something?

 

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26449

 

Btm24 suggests soldering an extra wire. The pictures he provided are so small... I'm not sure where he's talking about adding wire.

 

Thanks!

 

The dome lights in our trucks really are terrible IMO. I did fix mine up though doing both the things mentioned and they work really well now! First, I cleaned up the contacts. If the WD40 isn't working, try a pencil eraser. Pencil erasers sometimes work wonders are electrical contacts. Second, I soldered the wire that btm24 is referring to. By doing this it allows the lens to sit level when operating while the door is open. All you have to do is solder a small piece of wire between the contact where the roller on the lens sits to the top contact. If that is still a bit confusing, here's a couple pics.

 

 

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Fiatslug -- You're right about my door switches. I don't think they're working. I don't hear a buzz when I open the door. Also, I notice that one of my dome lights DOES work in the tilt-down position if I turn the headlight switch to the left, regardless of the door switches. Please let me know if you have any tips for troubleshooting the door switch problem.

 

Carl'sMJ -- Thanks for the great photos and explanation. I see what you mean.

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Carl'sMJ -- Thanks for the great photos and explanation. I see what you mean.

 

No problem :thumbsup: It took me some time to figure the dang things out too!

 

Fiatslug -- You're right about my door switches. I don't think they're working. I don't hear a buzz when I open the door. Also, I notice that one of my dome lights DOES work in the tilt-down position if I turn the headlight switch to the left, regardless of the door switches. Please let me know if you have any tips for troubleshooting the door switch problem.

 

Do they only work when you turn the headlight switch? Normally, without modification, when the lights are in the tilt down position they will turn on when the door is opened. I didn't think the headlight switch had anything to do with the function of the dome lights. I believe that turning the headlight switch is just a rheostat to dim the dash lights. Regardless, if they are working at all, I don't think it's the door switch (at least on that side).

 

As far as the buzzer goes, it could be disconnected. I know I disconnected mine years ago because I can't stand the sound. I'll have to look, but I can't remember if it is just a fuse or an actual connection. Maybe someone could help jog my memory on this :dunno:

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I didn't think the headlight switch had anything to do with the function of the dome lights.

 

As far as the buzzer goes, it could be disconnected.

If the headlight switch is turned fully counter clockwise past the "click" the dome lights will turn on with the door shut. I would replace the door switches they're 20 years old and are actuated every time you open the door-that's a lot of use. Remove them and take them with you to the parts store since there are several types ranging from $2-$10 and you need different ones for the driver and passenger side. If you switch the lights around does the same side light up or the same light, at least you can verify your wiring is OK. If you don't already have this bookmarked, here's the '88 electrical manual, not sure what year yours is http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734&hilit=electrical+manual

 

Does your buzzer work if the key is in the ignition and the driver's seat belt is not engaged? If it does your buzzer works.

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My truck is a 1986 Comanche X.

 

My buzzer does work when I leave the keys in the ignition.

 

The one light fixture works on either side, so both sets of wiring work.

 

I'll go ahead and replace the door switches if they're inexpensive and easy to find at the parts store.

 

Thanks everyone and happy Thanksgiving!

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Hey guys --

 

I have my dome lights working nicely now through the headlight switch. Next, I'd like to tackle the faulty door switches. Where are the door switches? Are we talking about the door latch itself or is this something else?

 

Thanks!

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Hey guys --

 

I have my dome lights working nicely now through the headlight switch. Next, I'd like to tackle the faulty door switches. Where are the door switches? Are we talking about the door latch itself or is this something else?

 

Thanks!

 

You can go ahead and post up a new thread next time so more people see it, but this is an easy one. The door switches are the little buttons on the cab near the hinges.

 

Rob L.

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