cicelyak

Guys -- My 1986 Jeep Comanche failed Colorado emissions test on Saturday morning. I've called three Jeep dealerships in town. Apparently none of them have diagnostic equipment old enough to look at this thing. Anyone suggest a mechanic for me in metro Denver who can take care of this? Thanks!

I received this email from Dorman: "We don't offer that part for your particular vehicle. Part Number 49284 is not for your vehicle."

Hey guys -- I'm looking to replace the turn signal lever (a.k.a. the multi-function stalk) on my 1986 Jeep Comanche X 2.5 liter 4-cyl. My model came with cruise control and variable-speed wipers. The lever is jammed in high-beam headlight mode, the push button is missing, and the wipers do not work at all when you rotate the wiper switch. For these reasons, I'd like to try replacing this lever. First, what is the correct replacement lever arm part? I believe the replacement part is this: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5081-49284.aspx The photos seem to match the one in my truck. Also, I know that AMC sourced many of its parts from GM, including the ignition switch. So, it makes sense to me that the lever would be a GM part as well. Second, if I replace the lever in hopes of unjamming the highbeams/lowbeams, what other part(s) should I expect to replace within the steering column while I'm in there. Finally, do I need any special tools to tackle this job? I've never taken the steering wheel off, nor opened up the steering column. :oops: Thanks!

Hey guys -- I tried to turn on my wipers this evening. They moved about three inches up and then stopped. They don't move at all now when I twist the stalk. How should I troubleshoot this? What are the likely culprits? Thanks! -Jason p.s. This happened just I was starting to feel like my truck was coming together. I'm disappointed. :(

The radio works well. Thanks, everybody!

Thanks, Kyle! I used a light from a model train set to test for the power wires. It looks to me like the pink wire is the constant positive power, and purple is the switched positive power. I'll give it a shot.

Hey -- I'm working on this project right now around 1:30pm mountain time. If you're looking at the forum, I could use your help. I'm replacing the factory radio with a Pioneer radio. I can see which wires are the eight speaker wires. Unfortunately, I don't know how to match up the power wires on the old radio with the power wires on the new radio. Can you help? On the old radio, I see a connector with six power wires of some sort: 1x blue, 1x, gray, 1x orange with white stripe, 1x pink, 1x black, 1x purple with white stripe. On the new radio, I see four power wires: 1x black, 1x yellow, 1x red, 1x blue. The blue is marked "system remote control", and the yellow is marked "battery positive". Can someone help me decide which of the new four wires to connect to which of the old six wires? THANKS!

Herc -- My truck is also a 1986. Should I just order this? http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5700-Ins ... B000281X6A Thanks!

Hey guys -- My stock AM/FM radio doesn't work. I'd like to drop a new aftermarket stereo in there. The old stock stereo lights up ok, so I know it's getting power. Also, there's a very quiet hiss and static on the speakers, so I believe the speaker wires are ok too, and potentially the speakers themselves. It looks like the black plastic trim around the dash comes off with just a couple screws. What do I need to do after that? Do I need to buy some kind of adapter kit to fit a new stereo in there? What about a wiring harness? I don't mind splicing into the wires if it means saving $20 on a wiring harness. Thanks!

Hey guys -- The fan for my vent/heat/defrost sounded like the world was going to end. It made this awful screeching and thumping sound. It was constant. It got to the point where I just couldn't stand turning on the heat because the sound was so terribly loud and annoying. Anyway, I'm proud to report that my dad and I successfully replaced the blower motor today. I picked up a new blower motor and fan blade from Checker O'Reilly. The motor was $26 and the fan blade was maybe $10 or $12. Both were in stock. We used the Haynes instructions as our guide. The steps were easy, but it was difficult wiggling things around in the tight space of the engine compartment. We had to switch between multiple pliers and wrenches to find something right-sized for the small space. This was by far our most ambitious repair project -- but in the end, it was no big deal. I'd suggest this project for anyone. We're basically car repair newbies and we didn't really struggle at all. The only technical part of it was splicing the two new wires into the existing wiring harness. We just needed wire cutters and some electrical tape. No problem there. If you're going to do it, I'd suggest replacing the fan blade while you're at it. It costs just a marginal amount more, and you don't have to futz around with unclipping the old blade from the old motor, cleaning it, or forgetting which direction the blades go when reattaching to the new motor. Now when I use the air in my truck, I can't hear a thing when it's on the lowest setting. When I crank it up to high, I only hear a smooth whir. In the words of Chris Farley, "Jackpot!" One question for you experienced folks out there -- When I use vent or bi-level, I get air out of the front vents. When I use heat or defrost, I only get air out of the vents above the dash, under the windshield. I've never had a working fan system. Is this what it's supposed to do? Thanks!

Hey guys -- I have my dome lights working nicely now through the headlight switch. Next, I'd like to tackle the faulty door switches. Where are the door switches? Are we talking about the door latch itself or is this something else? Thanks!

I've been checking prices for blower motors for at least a half hour. I found a bunch of Jeep-enthusiast stores where the part was priced $45 to $65. Then I checked Checker O'Reilly. It's only $26 and it's in stock at my local store. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... vi=1181416 It looks like these Jeep-enthusiast stores are gouging customers. Does anyone advice about parts stores? I just assumed that Jeep stores would be cheaper because they specialize. Apparently I was wrong, huh?

My truck is a 1986 Comanche X. My buzzer does work when I leave the keys in the ignition. The one light fixture works on either side, so both sets of wiring work. I'll go ahead and replace the door switches if they're inexpensive and easy to find at the parts store. Thanks everyone and happy Thanksgiving!

Fiatslug -- You're right about my door switches. I don't think they're working. I don't hear a buzz when I open the door. Also, I notice that one of my dome lights DOES work in the tilt-down position if I turn the headlight switch to the left, regardless of the door switches. Please let me know if you have any tips for troubleshooting the door switch problem. Carl'sMJ -- Thanks for the great photos and explanation. I see what you mean.

My heater blower sounds terrible too. I read the replacement steps in Haynes/Chilton. It looks pretty straight forward. Locate the blower, remove four screws, unplug it, replace. Is that about right? I'm a novice. I don't want to get in over my head. Thanks!

I tried both dome light fixtures with wd-40 and a q-tip. I tried to focus in particular on the the ball mechanism and the metal contacts. Unfortunately, the cleaning didn't help. I'd like to put some solder in there. I'm just not sure where. Should I add some solder onto the metal pads where the ball sits? Or is there something else to try? I wonder if anyone re-manufactures these lights.

Ok, I see two other posts on this topic. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25277&p=258236&hilit=dome+light#p258236 Dashbulliwagen suggests cleaning the contacts inside the light fixture. That sounds easy enough. What should I use? WD-40 or something? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26449 Btm24 suggests soldering an extra wire. The pictures he provided are so small... I'm not sure where he's talking about adding wire. Thanks!

I replaced the old bulbs with new 13.5v bulbs. The driver's side still doesn't work at all. The passenger's side only lights up in the "always on" up-tilt setting. It does not work in the down-tilt door ajar setting. These dome lights are kind of crappy, huh? I was hoping to have a light in the cab when I open the door. Should I eff with these somehow or look for replacements? Thanks!

First of all, your silver/red Comanche is bad @$$. I saw someone in another forum has a yellow Comanche with black stripes. His is also very cool. These trucks look great in a lot of different paint schemes. I wonder if someone has put together a gallery of stock Comanche exteriors. I'd like to see all the various combinations out there. Anyway -- I guess I'll try the 13.5v if it's no big deal. I understand the wattage refers to the rate of energy drawn into the bulb, right? So I don't think I want to exceed 7w because I don't want the wire to heat up more than the factory bulb. Do you know what the trade off is of using a 13.5v instead of a 12v. Will it be dimmer or not light up at all or what? Thanks!

Yeah, I thought they'd be easy to find. But, I went to Auto Zone and they only had 13.5V bulbs in this style. Should I just try another local parts place?

Hey guys -- I'd like to replace the interior dome lights in my Comanche. I'm referring to the two lights on the walls of the cab near the top parts of the seat belts. I've removed the old bulbs. They say "12v 7w 7547.0". I believe they are festoon type bulbs (?). My owner's manual says they are C11-7w bulbs. I've looked online and I can't seem to find a match for these bulbs. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!

Comanche Fan -- I've never seen a yellow one. That's awesome! Do you have a high resolution photo of it?

Hey guys -- First of all, thank you to the folks who helped me figure out how to remove my door's interior panel a couple weeks ago. I was able to fix the window crank and replace my side mirror. Awesome! :) The reason I'm posting today is because my Comanche seems to make a strange wobbly/thumping noise in the area in front of the passenger seat (somewhere behind the glove box) when I turn the wheel sharply to the right. At first I thought the noise was coming from the fan for the ventilation system. It sounds like the noise could be a wobbly fan blade or something like that. The noise comes and goes. My mechanic says that it's probably the throwout bearing for the transmission (?). He says when I replace the clutch, that sound will go away. But the thing is -- the sound doesn't occur when I apply the clutch to change gears. Nope. The noise seems to happen when I take a slow right turn -- either a right at a stop sign or a right into a parking spot. If the wobbly/thumping noise is the throwout bearing, what would you expect to pay to install a new clutch kit? The mechanic is AAA and Better Business Bureau approved. I'm sure he's honest. But, I don't know how affordable he is. He says the transmission work will be about $925. Is that competitive or should I shop around? Also, it's worth noting that my steering wheel seems off by about 15 degrees counter-clockwise. What I mean is that I have to have the steering wheel turned about an eighth of a turn to the left to drive the truck straight. My truck's alignment seems fine. The truck will cruise along nice and straight with the steering wheel turned a little to the left. I think my mechanic said something about replacing the track bar for this. I just wonder if the steering wheel misalignment and the turning noise might be related. Lastly, I came across the posting below. Same problem? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26424 Thanks!

Hey guys -- I'm tackling my first few Comanche repairs. I need to: (1) replace the side mirror, (2) figure out why the bolt for the driver's side window crank pushes in slightly toward the back of the vehicle, and (3) replace a speaker. I have zero auto repair experience, but I'm hoping these projects won't be too tough. Anyway, step 1 for all of these repairs is to remove the door trim. I've successfully removed the arm rest and pulled the screws out of the door handle bezel. Unfortunately, I can't seem to figure out how to unlatch the rod links that connect to the door handle so that I can pull the handle and the bezel clear. I'm using a 1993 edition of the Haynes manual as my guide. In section 11-7 it just says "Remove the three door handle/bezel screw, detach the rod links, then remove the door handle." How do I detach the rod links? I don't want to start prying and pulling for fear of breaking the links. Your help is much appreciated! Thanks! p.s. This is a 1986 Comanche X with manual door locks and manual windows.