Pete M Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 plus, bypassing the CAD is free. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fire4755 Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 so i'm really confused because i am also doing this. to do just a spring over rear end do i have to get a different driveshaft or not? if it matters its an 88 pioneer with an ax15 and np231 that I'm getting put in as well as dana 30 and 35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 2wd to 4wd conversion: yes, you will need a shorter drive shaft. A drive train shop can shorten your existing one. Already 4wd, going SOA: you will need a longer drive shaft. Lengthening a drive shaft is almost as much as having a custom shaft made. Find a longer shaft than you need (off a 2wd Comanche? I got mine off a 2wd Toyota mini truck) and have it shortened is much cheaper. When I went SOA I also moved from a D35 to a Chrysler 8.25". The 8.25 has a 1" longer nose, and I also used a YJ yoke that is 0.5" longer than the standard MJ/XJ one. Between that 1.5" extra, I STILL needed 1" more for a perfect length shaft, but 1" is close enough that my stock shaft still worked well enough (until I bent it on a rock.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 When I first did my SOA, I added a Ford 8.8. I simply used the stock 4x4 drive shaft with the stock ford 8.8 flange and a 1330/1310 conversion U-joint. It worked in my case. I eventually did have a custom length shaft made when I added a different 231 with a SYE. If you don't have a SYE on your TC, then there may be enough slip in you stock drive shaft. I'd do the drive shaft last, it may work for you after all if you're not modifying or swapping the rear axle. Edit: Check your pinion angle and ensure your drive shaft alignment and u-joint angles are correct or you'll go through U-joints fairly quickly. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/driveshafts.htm http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/tech_driveangles.htm http://www.dirtroad.com/articleb.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 so i'm really confused because i am also doing this. to do just a spring over rear end do i have to get a different driveshaft or not? bottom line: it depends. The only way to find out is to do it and see. You should always plan for one, but if it's ok, then run it as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkbruin Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 When I did my SOA, the factory shaft engaged the splines in the TC (barely). I ran without SYE. Until about a week after I went SOA. I hopped on the highway for the first time. Doing about 55 in the middle lane, hit a small riser. This lifted the truck enough that the slip-yoke disengaged and the shaft dropped to the ground. BOOM. That was the sound of my rear axle exploding as the force of a metal pole (the driveshaft) jammed backwards into it at 55mph. I made it off the highway, but thats it. I was able to re-engage the splines of the driveshaft by having a friend put it back up while I lifted up on the rear bumper by hand. I was able to drive about a block (awful noise, like nails in a meat grinder) before the rear finally completely locked up. So. Got to buy a new axle. And re-weld perches. Then spent the $100 for a custom made, proper length shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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