T-Case and Driveshaft ???

[vhenem]

Would a NP231 T-Case from a 97 TJ work in the MJ ? I thought I read somewhere that they were clocked differently ?

 

Second, looking for a rear driveshaft, I have a 88LWB, 4.0,AW4,NP242,D44 and according to the driveshaft list for stock trucks I need one 48" long, but since I have done a SO to get 5" over stock in the rear, would this number still work ? and since the odds of me finding a Comanche DS are slim, what should I be looking at for donor so I can get one cut down.

 

Thanks in advance

[Comanche County]

Check the spline count on the output shaft of your transmission. An 88' may have 21 splines, your 97' T-case is 23 splines. I don't think it will work.

 

Your best bet may be to get an XJ rear driveshaft and have it cut/extended to the right length after you get it all put together.

[vhenem]

Check the spline count on the output shaft of your transmission. An 88' may have 21 splines, your 97' T-case is 23 splines. I don't think it will work.

 

Your best bet may be to get an XJ rear driveshaft and have it cut/extended to the right length after you get it all put together.

 

 

Thanks, the Tranny and 242 in mine are from a 91, so it is a 23 spline, forgot to add that to my original post.

[jimmy21669]

Would a NP231 T-Case from a 97 TJ work in the MJ ? I thought I read somewhere that they were clocked differently ?

 

They are clocked differently, and may need a little massaging to the floor. I used a tranny and t-case from a YJ and did not have to massage the floor, but there is only 1cm of space.

 

The added clearance is great.

[mvusse]

I believe I have read somewhere the clocking is in the transmission. The transfer case would be the same.

[Garvin]

The transfer cases are the same (assuming both 23 spline), the difference is the tailshaft housing on the transmission that is drilled differently. AW4's only came in XJ's and MJ's so the transfer case will only sit in one way, no matter the year the AW4 is out of.

[Geonovast]

The transfer cases are the same (assuming both 23 spline), the difference is the tailshaft housing on the transmission that is drilled differently.

 

 

AW4's only came in XJ's and MJ's so the transfer case will only sit in one way, no matter the year the AW4 is out of.

 

And 93 ZJs :thumbsup:

[Garvin]

The transfer cases are the same (assuming both 23 spline), the difference is the tailshaft housing on the transmission that is drilled differently.

 

 

AW4's only came in XJ's and MJ's so the transfer case will only sit in one way, no matter the year the AW4 is out of.

 

And 93 ZJs :thumbsup:

 

I always forget about those. :oops:

[Geonovast]

What auto did the YJ and TJ use? :hmm:

[Motion Offroad]

YJ got the TF904 behind the 4 bangers and the TF999 behind the I6.

 

TJ/LJ got the 30RH behind the 4 bangers up to '02 and the 32RH behind the I6 up to '02. '03-'06 got the 42RLE regardless of motor.

[Garvin]

Motion Offroad beat me... :fs1:

 

The automatics in Wranglers are 3 speed transmissions compared to the AW4 that has the 4th gear in there. Basically, the Wranglers don't have overdrive while the Cherokees and Comanches (and '93 Grand Cherokees) do.

[jimmy21669]

I believe I have read somewhere the clocking is in the transmission. The transfer case would be the same.

 

True...mine is clocked due to the YJ tranny. And I have a AX-5 out of a 2.5L YJ.

[Pete M]

getting a driveshaft extended can be tricky and expensive. generally it is better to have one cut down. since u-joints are reasonably standardized, you should just need a shaft from a small truck (longer than you need of course) and get that cut down. 4wd XJ shafts will be way too short.

 

what happened to your old d-shaft?

 

are you swapping in the 231 in place of the 242?

[vhenem]

getting a driveshaft extended can be tricky and expensive. generally it is better to have one cut down. since u-joints are reasonably standardized, you should just need a shaft from a small truck (longer than you need of course) and get that cut down. 4wd XJ shafts will be way too short.

 

what happened to your old d-shaft?

 

are you swapping in the 231 in place of the 242?

 

 

The old D-Shaft was cut down as the truck was originally 2WD. We did the 4WD conversion and everything was fine, until we did the lift. Now my cut down DS is about an inch too short and I am back at square one. We moved the axle forward on the perches as a temporary measure just so I could run it.

 

I spend some time at a couple wreckers over the last few days and have come up blank in regards to acceptable donors. everything is either too short, bent, dented or the wrong u-joint size :wall: I was hoping someone here had the same issues and had come up with a suitable donor.

 

 

I am planning on swapping in a 231 as I am having some issues with my 242 not wanting to disengage from 4WD and I may have one from a TJ available to me.

[jimmy21669]

When I did my drive shaft, I ground down the welds around the slip yoke end and removed the whole sleeve. I then cut 10.5" off my drive shaft, re-inserted the sleeve and welded. I then used the YJ slip yoke as it is wider and allows for more angles without binding.

 

60 MPH with no vibes...use a level and cross many angles to ensure the sleeve is inserted straight. I would take pics, but don't have a camera right now...

 

If you can find 2WD XJ, the shaft may be long enough for your current application.

[vhenem]

I will be going to pick up a 2WD MJ Driveshaft today, and will have it shortened, here is the question. will the 48" length listed in the DS lengths of stock trucks work ? (LWB, 4.0, AW4, NP242, D44 = 48") or should I add another inch to compensate for the 5" lift ? In a perfect world I would be able to get things set up and take a measurement but I have no access to the truck for a couple of days and would like to be able to just get it chopped, head home and drop it in.

[Pete M]

with that much lift and having the 242 thrown into the mix makes me hesitant to say yes. that's a good chunk of money to wager on a guess, even if it is an educated guess.

[jimmy21669]

Measure twice, cut once.

 

Can you drive it in 4 hi as a front wheel drive to the shop that will be shortening the shaft so THEY can measure?

[mvusse]

Only if it has a SYE. Otherwise the pump will happily pump the fluid out the back.

[Pete M]

which is fixed by wrapping the back end with plastic and duct taping the crap outta it. :D (there are a plethora of other ways to cap the back end too)

 

If he swapped in the TJ unit first, then he'd have nothing to worry about. TJs and late model XJs got a sealed rear output (which is not a SYE, just a sealed yoke)

[vhenem]

Well I got my answer in regards the the DS, called up the shop that will be shortening the DS, he dropped by my house over and measured it for me. looks like it will be 48.5" with the 242.

 

I am going to leave the 231 out of the equation until after winter, having FT 4WD will be a bonus and then I can deal with the T-Case issue in the spring, I've been thinking about a crawlbox anyways so the DS issue will be easy to deal with.

 

Thanks for the input

[paezpatrick1]

hey guys! New to the forum but I am having a similar issue and was thinking of my options. i "just" lifted my 88 MJ 4WD, 4.0, 5 Speed (Puegot tranny). SOA rear w/stock leafs on a 99 ford 8.8 w/flange yoke adapter. Rebuilt posi w/4.56's (front and rear) all new stainless brake lines, rotors, pads, park brake and hardware. This gave me about 5 3/4 to 6 1/4 lift on the rear. For the front I am using Rubicon Express Adj. Control arms (uppers and lowers w/johny joints) and 6" lift skyjacker coils. All new brake hardware, rotors, and pads. I replaced the old break booster and master cylinder with that of one (new) out of a 98 ZJ 5.9 liter w/adj. proportioning valve for the rear. The front lift specs got me just about perfectly even with the rear. I have it sitting on 33x12.5 r15 BF Goodrich A/T and 4 procomp 8069's (15x10). All new joints, tie rod ends, seals, hubs, bearings all the way around. Rancho RS9000 w/remote on the way.

 

So my input is this. I found that my front DS hooked up with plenty of play in either direction for extension or retraction. Unfortunately my "fixed" rear DS is about 4 to 6 inches too short with the new lift. I am trying to hold off on the SYE because frankly I am at the end of my funds for this. If I get the SYE I will need the double cardon custom shaft and the CAD delete upgrade which I cannot do right now. After pulling the slip yoke out to see if it would reach I concluded that it us just simply too short.

 

So I am considering this: To my understanding the u-joints front and rear are the same part numbers. The "h-yoke" on the front shaft is about 4 to 5 inches long and provides additional articulation to the shaft. This H-yoke and the center bearing piece that comes with it is a fraction of the cost of the previously mentioned gear. It may also reduce the possibility of drive line vibration as it does mimic a double cardon shaft set up. This may also close the distance I need from the front of my rear drive shaft to the rear of my TC. I will be experimenting with this over the next couple of days but your thoughts would be valuable.

 

Thanks guys,

 

Patrick

[Pete M]

got a photo of what you're contemplating? :hmm:

 

I had a 2wd d-shaft cut down to length for $30. others have paid up to 100 for the same thing. :thumbsup:

 

also, welcome to the club! :waving:

[mkbruin]

I paid $100 for a brand spankin' new, BEEFY, custom built driveshaft when I SOA'd my old one. It was BEEFY.

[mvusse]

The only thing I can think of you can mean by "H yoke" would be the double cardan CV joint.

 

 

Also Getting a slip yoke eliminator has absolutely nothing to do with the front axle or needing a CAD (Central Axle Disconnect, which is on the front axle) delete.