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Control arm setups


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To start off, I'm building up an '86 Comanche long bed.

 

It currently has a SOA in the rear with an XJ rear Dana 35 and the front has Rusty's 8.5" coils, JK control arms, RE track bar and drop pitman. I'm halfway through swapping in a Chevy 350 in place of the 2.8L and the long tube headers are hitting the upper controls, that's where my issues come in.

 

I'm looking for input on long arms from anyone running them. I currenly only have experience from the Rusty's setup that I was running on my Cherokee. Also curious of your guys input on a 3 link vs 4 link and seperate arms vs a Y-link setup. Any input is appreciated. I am not new to this whole Jeeping thing, just am looking for some first hand experience for these kits.

 

I do have a few kits in mind that I'd like to run:

 

TnT Customs

Rusty's

Rough Country

Rock Krawler

 

 

I have no issues modifying the cross members some to fit the Comanche for the Cherokee setups, just don't want to mess with the whole geometry and whatnot to the front.

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I measured everything out and the headers will clear long arms, it hits right near the mount and just enough where the flange won't sit flat. The headers actually run right along the floor, kinda worked out pretty well there.

 

I'm leaning towards running the Y-link arms again cause I've had good luck with them and they flexed great on my old Cherokee. Since you have to cut holes through the frame, I just want to choose one and that's it, don't want to go cutting multiple holes in the frame if I don't like a kit. If the TnT kit didn't go up in price, I'd be out buying that one but it went up $200 in the last year. :fs1:

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The y-link setup on my Cherokee was stable as all hell. I think I might be tied into a y-link since I'm not sure the RK full length arms will clear the headers. I'm going to head out and measure everything later this week for that aspect. I do still have my Rusty's y-link arms to mock everything up. Might bend my cross member back and stengthen it just to mock something up.

 

This talk kinda has me wanting to head out there and remeasure everything again just for peace of mind. :(

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The y-link setup on my Cherokee was stable as all hell. I think I might be tied into a y-link since I'm not sure the RK full length arms will clear the headers. I'm going to head out and measure everything later this week for that aspect. I do still have my Rusty's y-link arms to mock everything up. Might bend my cross member back and stengthen it just to mock something up.

 

This talk kinda has me wanting to head out there and remeasure everything again just for peace of mind. :(

 

cool. i never had a jeep with y-links, but just observing jeeps with them has me not liking them.

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The y-link setup on my Cherokee was stable as all hell. I think I might be tied into a y-link since I'm not sure the RK full length arms will clear the headers. I'm going to head out and measure everything later this week for that aspect. I do still have my Rusty's y-link arms to mock everything up. Might bend my cross member back and stengthen it just to mock something up.

 

This talk kinda has me wanting to head out there and remeasure everything again just for peace of mind. :(

 

cool. i never had a jeep with y-links, but just observing jeeps with them has me not liking them.

 

Most y-link setups have extremely stiff springs. When I got the setup for the Cherokee, I choose the softest springs that I could find, which were the Rusty's. I've lost it before going down an on ramp (Super Swampers suck in the rain) and went down it about 200 feet sidewards and barely felt any roll. Not only that but the Jeep drove smoother than it did stock, plus I managed to score a 960 on the RTI ramp (the leaf springs were the limiting factor, the front coil was unseated).

 

My question was aimed a lot more towards someone like you with the full arm setup. You have any complaints on that style? Was it easy to install and you have any issues with it? How big of a lift are you running with it? Are the arms adjustable or solid?

 

I might not be stuck with the y-link setup now that I think of it, think it's just the passenger side that hits and could easily run a 3 link there.

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mine is full on custom. i run 6.5" Rustys coils. all 4 arms are 2" 1/4 wall DOM adjustable and they have johnny joints. the lower frame mounts were easy to position, obviously. for the upper mounts, i had some old 2" pipe laying around and i just laid under the jeep putting it in different positions to see if it would interfere with anything. i eventually found the "sweet" spot to build the mounts.

 

here are some pics for reference...

38023_1459190394447_1074012213_31315637_2580731_n.jpg

36970_142760512401196_100000017434059_424217_2433339_n.jpg

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Sweet looking MJ, I'm going to have to find the pictures of my XJ flexing on a car. :chillin:

 

I'm trying to avoid the whole issue of custom making everything. Trying to get as much stuff off the shelf as I can in case I break something, that's been the hardest part.

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Novac makes headers and motor mounts for SBC swaps , built just for our trucks . I've got the mounts but I am a ways out from getting the motor in .

 

I'm actually running the Novak motor mounts and Novak trans adapter so I can keep the AX15. I prefer to have the long tube headers though, keeps everything a lot cleaner and easier to deal with the exhaust. I plan on making the whole center of the exhaust removable so I can get to the trans and transfer case easier and the long tubes make the flanges in a very easy to access spot. Plus, I got them dirt cheap. :D

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Of the companies you list, TNT is about the only one I would go with. For an extra $200 you are getting a HECK of a lot better parts.

 

I love TnT's crossmember, the only issue is finding that extra $200. :grrrr:

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